I want you to get a piece of paper and pencil, and write the following 51 times.
"I WILL NOT THROW PARTS AND MONEY AT A PROBLEM."
You can take the alternator out of the car and throw it on the ground and leave it there--
the car will still start and run.
You can take the regulator (that you just bought) out of the car and throw it on the ground---
the car will still start and run
You can take the "ceramic block thing" (which is called the ignition resistor, coil resistor, ballast resistor) out of the car--
and the STARTER WILL STILL CRANK THE ENGINE.
So what have you learned?
That
THROWING PARTS at the problem does not work.
Earlier you said "lights won't come on, nothing."
What this indicates to me is that you are not getting ANY power to almost everything in the car.
THIS INDICATES a main connection bad somewhere. A MAIN SUPPLY CONDUCTOR that supplies battery power to the rest of the car.
Did you get a meter? Did you get a test light?
READ MY EARLIER POST AGAIN
Take your test light or meter and ground one lead securely to the block.
1 Stab the probe DIRECTLY into the post of the battery--you should have battery voltage
2 Stab the probe on the positive battery CABLE CONNECTOR. Again, you should have power
3 Go up to the starter relay
http://showcase.netins.net/web/1970g...ypn2444442.JPG
Stab the meter lead on the big screw terminal on the end. You should have power.
If you do---now take a screwdriver and short the big screw terminal to the terminal in the middle. THE STARTER SHOULD CRANK
IF this is good up to this point, It proves the battery is good, the "big" main cables are good, and the starter will work.
NOW--
4 Stab the meter or test lamp onto the big screw/nut terminal on the alternator. This should have battery.
IF NOT---this is a big clue!!!
Once again --I said this earlier--- look up in the area of the starter relay and follow the harness towards the battery. There should be one or two fuseable links. These usually are a short section of wire hanging out with a rubberized "tag" on them. Probe them to see if they have power, feel and wiggle them to see if they're melted through or corroded through.
Next, probe around the firewalll/ bulkhead connector. I DO NOT KNOW if my diagram is anywhere near the same as yours. My old '70 manual shows the following:
Here's a pic of the engine bay wireing: (You MUST get a wiring diagram, and better yet, a shop manual)
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2035/...df5b72e6_o.jpg
See the battery and starter relay down at the bottom? See the fusable link going up to "J" on the connector? THIS IS the firewall connector, that feeds power into the body of the car, and goes DIRECTLY to the ammeter in the dash
On the same connector, see "P" going to the alternator? This goes to the big, main, screw / nut connector on the back of the alternator. THIS COMES DIRECTLY BACK FROM the ammeter in the dash.
All of these points should be "hot" anytime. The key does not need to be on.
I do NOT KNOW if the wiring in your car will be quite the same. The firewall connector may be wired different. This is why you need to find a diagram for your car