Foedoe

About half the time starting the coronet in the morning it wont start up until i pour gas in the carb
Its a edelbrock 4bbl intake and carb and when i run it for a while and try to start it again it takes alot of pedal pumping before it fires up
Is this vapor lock?
What is it and how might i fix?

Greaser

look at your plugs, are the tips white? my guess is you are running to lean.

440roadrunner

You didn't tell us much

Do you have a properly working choke?

Did you check the accellerator pump, is it working?

How cold is the climate at your location?

AND what year is the carb off of? Later "smog" carbs were leaned out to the extreme, and can be very tempermental.

Years ago, my Gramps had a 74 or so Dart, /6, smogger of course. BUT, even down into the 10's and 20's (F) you could pump it ONCE, then floor it and let back up to "set the choke" and it would fire and run almost every time. However, it WAS "cold blooded" and would "stumble" off idle even when nearly warm.

The point is -- a working choke and acellerator pump makes a huge difference in cold starting.

Foedoe

It has no choke but it it idles fine cold. This morning it was 30 and after i poured a little gas in started up and idled
Dont know what year the edelbrock is
Newer plugs look fine
And dont know what or where the accelerator pump is
But it does have alot of hesitation at stop

rdrunner1974

Check the Edelbrock site for info on your carb model. The accelerator pump has adjustments and your float setting may be incorrect.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ess_main.shtml

67 GTX

vapor lock only happens from lots of heat in the engine compartment
if your car does this when you start it in the morning (i am assuming the car is cold), then it cant be vapor lock.

Foedoe

I tinkered with my adjustment screws today after i installed a new fuel filter seemed normal checked my plugs all looked normal im pretty stumped though its like after i shut it off hot and it sits and gets cold, all the gas in the carb and intake just vanish and even with turning over and pumping the pedal doesnt seem to work unless i add gas

Mistermopar

After you shut it down and leave it for a while, the carb could be leaking the fuel into the intake, and then it evaporates.
Then when you go to start it the carb bowls are empty and you either have to pump it a lot or put fuel in the carb.

Maybe check the needle and seats.

Randy

burnoutking-1

I would check the oil and make sure it isn't getting diluted with fuel also.

Fuel pump diaphragm could be bad also, allowing fuel to drain back.

hcharles

You might need to install a carb spacer between the carb and the intake. Heat soaking can boil the gas in the carb.

440roadrunner

How are you determining that "all the gas in the carb just vanishes"?

Have you actually pulled the top cover off the carb?

I'm wondering if it isn't something quite a bit simpler, like a defective accellerator pump.

So to check the pump, prime the carb or whatever, to get it running, and don't warm it up "completely hot," just warm it up enough to run smooth. This will leave the carb somewhat cool

Now shut off the engine and use a light to look straight down the primary throats.

You should be able to "play" with the throttle and notice that it should NOT take more than a tiny movement of the throttle to get a "pump shot" out of the nozzles and into the throat.

If you don't you need to pull the carb apart and investigate. NOTICE (download the diagram/ destructions from Edelbrock) NOTICE that there is a small weight/ check valve UNDER the pump nozzle assembly. So if you pull off the nozzle assembly, it's EASY to play with the pump and shoot the check valve off into never never land.

I find it hard to believe that if your weather is getting down to 30 (F?) that fuel is all evaporating.

Where do you live? We talking F or C temps here?

Foedoe

30 deg f
This morning it was 28
I know that in the morning the jets do spit a little but just enough even after like 15 pumps or so only kicks the engine a little not enough for a start
I think by what hcharles said i might just need a spacer
It only happens when i shut it off hot straight from the freeway

Barfly

Hot, Cold, Wet or Dry looking down in the carb and moving the throttle should produce a "Squirt" of gas out of each of the primary nozzles.

If the engine starts after putting gas down her throat, then there is a lack of gas to start with. You need to make sure the accelerator pump is working properly and the fuel bowl is staying full.

Here are some links that might help you with your carb.

Edelbrock Carb Tuning

OWNERS MANUAL

Good Luck.
Joe.

MercuryDon

Next time, Try releasing any vacume that may have accumulated in the tank. Just remove and then reinstall cap. Its posible if the cap is a non-vented cap on a vented system. You could be sucking the gas back to the tank when you shut it off.

Drakovich

Interestingly enough I have the exact same problem with the same engine and same exact carb. Altho my fuel pump is leaking at the seem and i have a feeling that when the car sits the fuel in the line empties down to the fuel pump and takes a bit of fuel poured in (at least a full cup of gasoline maybe more she likes to guzzle when she starts) to get it back up the line, but after she warms up for 5min or so she will stay running and I can take my foot off the gas peddle.

Got a new pump but i don't have a garage and with a foot of snow down and it being 20 degrees and under on a daily basis... well lets just say I'm waiting for a warm day.

Foedoe

A full cup all at once ?!!!

Drakovich

yeah I'v tried less but she sputters and dies

Foedoe

Wow Bummer so i assume before you start it the fuel filter is empty?

Drakovich

well iv got a clear filter and a steel filter, the clear one sits right before the carb and empties down to maybe 20% full, just a bit below the level of the line. When i first got the car and noticed the problem I got new air filter, spark plugs, and spark plug wires as well as turned up the idle, it made the car run alot smoother after it started(no stalling and faster warm up) but she still runs cold and takes gasoline poured in to start. like i said gonna put in a new pump and also planning on getting a new thermostat.

Foedoe

Hmm i feel like if your fuel pump is leaking your whole tank would just run dry after a week or so sitting?

Drakovich

no not really, fuel pump is on bottom of the engine block(mechanical) and the pump and line are about level with the tank, i lose a bit of gas when it sits yes but the physics don't add up to drain the tank as far as i see it. altho the steel line where it enters the gas tank to get fuel has no seal between the gas line and tank and steel on steel doesn't make for a air or gas tight seal on the tank and i cant fill my tank more than 1/2 full becuase of it. no one seems to be able to tell me what this seal is called however and every parts store i go to looks at me like I'm insane have a feeling im gonna have to rig something there.

bboogieart

It has no choke but it it idles fine cold.

Once you get it started.

I am guessing this is your main problem. When that cold (30) the throttle plates should be almost completely closed. No choke means there is a lot of air and precious little fuel going into the motor. This means pumping enough fuel to get a proper mixture. Once running it will run but not right. If you have it set to run cold then it won't be optimal when warm. I have a 76 with a nonfunctioning choke and this is what it takes to start. Pump pump pump like crazy or just dump gas in. I also have a 78 with a functioning choke, and it starts right up like mentioned above. Step the pedal to the floor once and it pops right off. Also have a 77 van with an old Holley and a hand choke. That one will start by just pulling the choke cable and it pops off. Don't have to even touch the pedal.
So I say again you need a choke to run in cold weather, or just keep dumping in gas. The latter is not good for oil or rings.
Drakovich you seem to have a different problem, You should get that gasket put in your gas tank. That is all it is a gasket for your sending unit. quote(no seal between the gas line and tank) do not leave it like that cuz vapor escapes, and the vapor is what is flammable. You should only need the mechanical pump in the first place. quote: (physics don't add up to drain the tank as far as i see it.) Could it be sloshing out as you drive, or maybe some one be steeling it.

MercuryDon

When I need to prime a carb I pour the gas in the bowl vent tube so it puts gas in the fuel bowl. There is less chance of washing the cylinder walls that way. It takes a rrather small funnel tho.

Clay Dots

I would concure with those saying the accerator pump, not vapor lock to cold, you might see if there is 2 filters on this sometimes there is one under body and one on top by the motor one could be plugged with sediment/crud this can plug up flow. best wishes CD

Barfly

I had a Dodge Conversion van with a 318 a few years back that did this very same thing. It wasn't until I sold it that I realized that's all it was.
It always acted like it ran out of gas, I would pull her over and wait 15 minutes start up and run again.

I had forgotten all about it, good call MercuryDon!.

Joe.

Foedoe

It still kind of stutters when it warms up if i stab the gas im thinkin accelerator pump
Its in the carb right? Is it an adjust or replacement issue?

Clay Dots

Is In the carb , no biggy! hope that solves your problems

Foedoe

okay i read up
the 3 pin holes on the plunger,assuming i have a throttle delay that can be fixed by moving the pin up, is that it? will i have to adjust the metering rods too?
i havent even looked at it yet today, just makin a game plan before i screw things up

bboogieart

I still say you will have to pump the heck out of it to start it with out a choke. It needs to get enough gas to make up for the dense cold air. 30 degrees isn't even that cold but still needs a choke.

Foedoe

Tomorrows high temp is supposed to be 28 the low is 18