Electronic ignition vs. distributor and points
11-05-2008, 11:06 AM
#1
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Electronic ignition vs. distributor and points
Guys,
Thanks for all the great information on this site. What a huge help with growing my knowledge base of mopars. I am in the proccess of tuning up my 318. A friend reccomended electronic ignition. What are the benefits? Does it make a difference with a relatively stock 318?
Thanks for all the great information on this site. What a huge help with growing my knowledge base of mopars. I am in the proccess of tuning up my 318. A friend reccomended electronic ignition. What are the benefits? Does it make a difference with a relatively stock 318?
11-05-2008, 01:20 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
I changed my points dissy across to an electronic unit (318 Poly) and found it starts easier and runs better, the only mod I had to do was to remove the choke butterfly as when using choke it appeared to run out of air and was just a pig to warm up, with the butterfly removed instead of restricting the air it is just pulling on the throtle a little bit.
11-05-2008, 01:23 PM
#3
Mopar Lover
well, with electronic ignition, you will get a better spark, which means more power.
points are easier to trouble shoot, but once you get the electronic ignition all working, they are way better.
points are easier to trouble shoot, but once you get the electronic ignition all working, they are way better.
11-05-2008, 01:54 PM
#5
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
good info. Is this something I can do in my garage with some working knowledge of motors, or do I need a professional with electronic experience to handle this? What are the better companies and products for this application? Thanks again.
-C
-C
Last edited by 68 Sat; 11-05-2008 at 02:04 PM.
11-05-2008, 03:11 PM
#6
Admin
If I had a choice, I would go electric ignition over points. BUT... The stock dizzys couples with an orange box, a good coil and set of wires will give just as good performance as a electric ignition setup.
The old system is eay to diag and easy to set up and add on to.
A electric ignition system is more reliable, better on start ups and has a little easier time staying set for advancements.
Down side of points is you need to adjust them and can be a pain to replace.
Downside to electric ign is diag can be a pain sometimes.
If it was up to me, with a stock motor, I would upgrade the points system to make it a little better. With a performance motor that I'd be driving a lot and except a lot from it, I would go with an electric ign. system.
The old system is eay to diag and easy to set up and add on to.
A electric ignition system is more reliable, better on start ups and has a little easier time staying set for advancements.
Down side of points is you need to adjust them and can be a pain to replace.
Downside to electric ign is diag can be a pain sometimes.
If it was up to me, with a stock motor, I would upgrade the points system to make it a little better. With a performance motor that I'd be driving a lot and except a lot from it, I would go with an electric ign. system.
11-06-2008, 04:03 AM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: central ,IN
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You can get a wire harness brand new from bill evans.814-864-2622. its 125.0 for a motor harness, its the correct color coded wires and its set up where it plugs right into your bulkhead , and its ready for el. ign. you can get the orange box, the coil, new style voltage reg, and ballaast resistor from summit racing 1-800-230-3030. just measure the distance from the bulkhead conn. to the spot where you want youre orange box and let him know this when you order the harness. ive used several of his harnesses and have never had a prob.good luck. also if your car is still the single field alt. you need to upgrade this as well and tell him for this provision also. as for your dist/ you can reubuild it using parts from napa and saave a bunch of 
. they want like 170.00 for 1 at summit. just order a new reluctor plate and new vacume pull off for elec. and tke the old plate and pull off out of the housing and change them over, the housings are the same. or have someone who knows whats going on to do it for you. you need to set the airgap on the reluctor wheel at .12 thousandths.
. they want like 170.00 for 1 at summit. just order a new reluctor plate and new vacume pull off for elec. and tke the old plate and pull off out of the housing and change them over, the housings are the same. or have someone who knows whats going on to do it for you. you need to set the airgap on the reluctor wheel at .12 thousandths.
11-07-2008, 01:55 PM
#9
Mopar Lover
wow rr thanks for that guys number 
and 68 sat go with the EI as you live in a cold state as it does help in the winters on starting but if your not driving it in the cold , heck i would still go with the EI you will see better performance out of your engine
and 68 sat go with the EI as you live in a cold state as it does help in the winters on starting but if your not driving it in the cold , heck i would still go with the EI you will see better performance out of your engine
11-07-2008, 05:01 PM
#10
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
once again you guys have been great. I just got the car back from the shop today. All tuned up and ready to go. Shes runnin like a charm.Thanks for all the great info.
11-09-2008, 06:37 PM
#12
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
my friend and mechanic for 30 + years assures me that I do not need an oil with a zinc additive. If it makes a difference the engine had a major overhaul in 2003 which included hardened valve seats, cylinder head work, and a number of other things to ensure conventional oil would be ok. With that said I did toil over this decision after reading about the problems with conventional oil.
11-10-2008, 02:51 AM
#13
Mopar Lover
The zinc has nothing to do with the valves or head work. It's there to protect the cam. The spring pressure pushing the lifters against it have been wiping out cam lobes since the reduction of ZDDP additive. If you're using a roller cam, you're fine, if you wipe a cam, talk to your mechanic.
11-10-2008, 08:31 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Trouble Shooting 318
Hello..I have a 1968 Plymouth Stellire with a 318. I have a problem that the motor will start after sevral cranks. The motor will run for awhile and turns off. I start it up again and it will do the same thing. Sometimes it will run for several minutes and suddenly stop. It has a recently rebuilt carb and new fuel filter....What should I look for to solve this ???
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