Commando

I am looking to swap out the stock 400 engine out of my 1977 Chrysler Cordoba, it is starting to get tired after I put in headers, redid the dual exhaust, and put in a new Edelbrock carb. I have been looking around for some 440 engines and have found a few but what I am concerned about is compatibility issues. I think one of the ones I was looking at was in a motor home, does this make it stronger, or does it show more wear? I know it will fit as there is a lot of room under the hood, but I would like to reuse the headers and starter as it was the only one that would fit with the headers. I might also like to use some other parts, but I want to know if it is missing one part can I just pull it off the 400 engine? What can't I use, I would say if it doesn't fit don't use it but I want to know if anyone has done this before, how difficult is it? And any other advice from someone with experience would be appreciated.

440roadrunner

This is just my opinion, but unless you are going to rebuild the engine, I'd stay away from Motorhome engines. They are under a LOT more stress, burned valves, etc. If you plan to rebuild it, and it's cheap, I'd say no problem.

If you are in a rebuild situation, and your 400 heads are in better shape, you can use them. If you need your 400 pan and oil pickup, it will fit the 440. If you have very low miles on your 400 cam (I don't know what you've done to it) such things as the cam drive and cam/lifters will fit. Most all external parts, water pump, brackets, etc, should fit.

The engines should be a bolt in but......

The intake and distributer will NOT interchange from 400 to 440. The 361/383/400 is a short stroke "low deck height" motor, so the push rods, distributor, and intake are different.

The 413,426, and 440 are long stroke (raised block or RB) and so have longer pushrods and distributor, and wider intake.

Anything else, headers, mounts, etc should be a bolt in

EXCEPT:

Here's where I'm unfamiliar. 400's MAY BE externally balanced, I'm not sure. I'm also not sure if any of the motor home 440's are or are not externally balanced. I do NOT know how Chrysler did the balancing. The extra weights may be on the flex plate, or the converter. In the case of a stick, you need the special flywheel. You need to check this out.

Even my old '70 six pack 440 was externally balanced, as opposed to the 383's and 375hp (4bbl) 440's which were not externally balanced.

Commando

That answers my concerns about the motor home engine. It was just one option, and if I am to rebuild I want an engine that was under less stress. As for the cams I am unsure as the person I bought the car from (owner #2) converted some components to high performance, and I will figure this out later once I pull the engine. Thats good to know about the components as I have replaced quite a few of them and would assume them to be newer than the ones on the engine I buy. I appreciate your information, and its good to know a lot of it is bolt in.
Anyone have an opinion about replacing the trans, as I have found a lot of the engines advertised with the 727 trans.

440roadrunner

You misunderstood part of my meaning. If you are going to do a serious rebuild on a motor home 440, AND you got it cheap enough, the "stress" that it was under won't matter--it might be worn a little more, but the heavy use won't hurt it. I only meant if you wanted a low mileage engine that you could just dump in there with no rebuild, then a motor home might not be a good choice

So far as the trans, I'm not an auto man. You have a 904 now? If so, a 727 should be a worthwhile upgrade. Some car models have different tailshaft lengths, so you might have to rework the driveshaft. If you get the correct one, it should be a bolt in so far as mounts.

Again, check out the balancing issue.

Commando

Alright I understand what you mean now, it will have to be a factor in the amount of money I want to spend. I think the 400 is balanced externally will look into that with the 440. What does that take to do, it sounds like it may be tricky.

Commando

Thats a good point, generally when I rebuild an engine I would replace the heads, but that depends on their condition, and they would go through the heating and cooling again. When you say rebuild do you just mean taking it apart cleaning it and putting new seals/gaskets in? A lot of people have different opinions on what a rebuild is.
What I am looking at now is the one from a motor home with a trans with an asking price of $600. Or one from a new yorker with 39K miles that also has the 727 trans for $750. They are both asking prices with room to negotiate, and similar with the exception of where they were applied.

Commando

I have been thinking about that, and considering what I plan to replace on the engine I purchased its only a couple more steps to do. And hell if I get better HP why not do it. Thanks

thestocksguy

The 400 is used to drop in a 440 set, crank & rods, to end up with 451 cubes and as many HP. The mains are ground down an eighth of an inch, to drop into the 400, and keeping the 440 rods, allows the combination of the longest stroke (3.75"), with the 400's largest bore (4.34"). This Combo
is regarded as the best power a man can get with swapping a few parts around, with nothing exotic to pay for. Keith Black has these slugs on the shelf, and a cam consideration IF you watch HOTROD's contribution to this Modd !
Don't Die !!!
-P-

Commando

So I ended up replacing everything but the block and timing cover. I took the original heads off and had rust so that dictated everything that followed. Relatively easy swap, with one exception, the Edelbrock heads are wider then stock 440 and 400, so had heat transfer issues from the headers to power steering. Steel crank, bored .030 over, sealed power pistons, Edelbrock RPM heads, cam, intake, and 750 cfm carb, Schumacher tri-y headers, and Edelbrock fuel pump. Other upgrades include; Be-Cool radiator, electric fan, Accel distributor and box, trans shift kit, and 9 1/4 rear. I think I need to upgrade the carb to a larger one probably around 800 cfm atleast.

No idea what the actual output is, but the estimate puts it somewhere around 450+ hp, and 500+ ft lbs of torque, those may actually be low as I think it feels like more, but still in tuning process.

Devicarious

I have a similar situation, but cam specific. I took the cam and hydraulic flat tappet lifters out of my old 400 and put them in a 440 i bought. I only put new cam bearings in the 440 (new 440 had only 27k on it) and I am getting a top end clatter but have no play in the rockers. I am getting lubrication to the valves, but when I shut it off, it stopped more sudden than usual. Hard to start too. I need to advance it slightly, but I don't know if it is a timing tick or a valvetrain clatter.