Hey guys - new member - 73 318
 

Hey guys and gals,

I have a 73 coronet custom that died on me at work in the parking lot (At idle) before hand I thought I was having some issues with my carb, anyhow, due to the symptoms I was seeing I was pretty damn sure it wasn't my carb anymore and I settled on the timing chain. Sure enough, I towed her home and tore her down....

First thing I noticed was, the PO was a lazy son of a b***h. Instead of replacing a water pump gasket (He must've sprung a leak between the pump and the timing chain cover.) he drilled a bolt down between the two, when that didn't seal properly (OH REALLY?) so he stuck it off with JB weld. Due to this little surprise, I had to wait a week for a new timing chain cover, so, here I am again on my weekend and I've ripped the old cover out and sure enough, my cam shaft gear (One of those god awful plastic coated OEM gears ;/) was tore to crap, even the teeth looked like they'ed slipped.

I just put on a cloyes double roller gear set, now, this is my issue:

This is my first timing chain set change so I'm a n00b. I've researched it as much as possible but, I need some help before I throw on the new cover, I want to make sure i've done it right:

I currently have the gears on with the woodruff key on the crank shaft set to 4 degrees advanced. Now, I wanted to double just with some folks who have experience and make sure my logic is sound:

According to cloyes instructions for Chrysler motors, I should have the camshaft gear timing mark pointing down and the crankshaft gear pointing up, which I do have. I figure, because of the woodruff keys there really shouldn't be a way to screw this part up right? If the marks match up, I'm golden?

After setting the chain and sprockets on the motor, make two full revolutions of the crankshaft by hand and double check the gear marks for alignment, if they are not correct start over.

Thanks Mr. 340.

Welcome to the forum

Hey guys,

So, I've got the timing set properly on the gears verified with Mr340's tip. Now, I have a couple other fun issues. Firstly, the front crankseal, I tried tapping it in with no luck, then, I tried pressing it in by using the old crankshaft gear and the crank bolt/washer, I now have a bent front crankshaft seal.

While I await my new seal, I'd like to make sure I'm going about this properly, the seal should install from the front of the cover correct?

I also had a quick question about something I forgot to write down in the break down, there is a piece that came off of the front crankshaft, I can't recall if it was inside of the timing cover or outside of it. It is a thin piece of pressed metal that fits around the crankshaft and does have a slot for the key. When looking at it, it seemed more logical that it'ed go inside of the cover, but, no matter how hard I search, I can't seem to find a picture or mention of the piece.

P.S. per the front crankshaft seal, I did notice there is a tool for it, but, I'd really like to not spend 80 bucks on a tool I'll be using every 10 years or so.

New update,

As the motor stopped running and the chain seamed to have slipped quite a bit, I suspect my valves might've bit it. I had a buddy who's friend is selling a set of J cast 360 heads... So, guess what else I'm doing to her?

Any advice on cam+lifters I should install with this setup? ( I was thinking about: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4120231/ ) Also, this will be my first head install, I'm pretty good with picking mechanical things up, but, any sage wisdom is always welcomed (Things to look out for, tips, tricks, stuff that only experience knows.)

Ok, On the slinger, it goes behind the cover.
as for the seal, go to the local home improvement store and get a 12" piece of the grey pvc pipe about the same diameter as the seal and use that with a rubber mallet to pop the seal in.If 12" is too long, just cut the pipi with a regular hacksaw to the desired length.

Thanks Mr340, you yet again rock :)

welcome to the forum

Thanks much!