I'm back again with the poly 318 - still having issues
02-20-2008, 09:13 AM
#1
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I'm back again with the poly 318 - still having issues
It acts like it has a vacuum leak. After the engine warms up, it idles down and stalls when I come to a stop, unless I 2-foot it. I've checked/replaced anything that could be causing a vacuum leak, except change the intake... but i checked it for leaks and it seemed to be fine.
I have a standard 318 that I took the distributor out of (new one) and replaced in the poly.... now it won't even start! haha It's getting no spark for some reason?
I have the 800pg factory service manual and did the job how it said to do it. I didn't touch the rotor, I marked where the rotor was pointing from the old one and set the new one in just like that...
I know I have the firing order right...18436572 - right?
From what I've read, the distributor is interchangable...
holy cow what do I do with this car, short of drive it off a cliff? LOL
I have a standard 318 that I took the distributor out of (new one) and replaced in the poly.... now it won't even start! haha It's getting no spark for some reason?
I have the 800pg factory service manual and did the job how it said to do it. I didn't touch the rotor, I marked where the rotor was pointing from the old one and set the new one in just like that...
I know I have the firing order right...18436572 - right?
From what I've read, the distributor is interchangable...
holy cow what do I do with this car, short of drive it off a cliff? LOL
02-20-2008, 10:11 AM
#2
I wish I could meet you sometime, you have more guts than any young woman I've ever talked to. I'ts awsome that you even try to do this stuff!!
Now, a few things:
Did you check the shaft length of the two distributors? Does the new one actually rotate when you crank the starter?
This IS a "points" (breaker points, pre-71) distributor?
Can you tell if the points are opening and closing?
Do you have a test lamp or meter?
Do this test
:
Turn the key on, and hook your test lamp or meter from the coil low voltage terninals--one at a time--and the other test lead to ground.
You should get a light or voltage on one side or the other, maybe both if the points are open. (key on)
If you do not get power at the coil terminals, go up to the ceramic coil ballast resistor, and check both terminals of the resistor with your lamp.(key on) You should get power with the key on on both sides of the resistor. If you only have power on one side, the resistor is bad. If you don't have power on EITHER terminal, you have an ignition switch or wiring problem
If you DID get power at one or both coil terminals, here's next:
If you get power on BOTH sides of the coil, that means that the points are open or are not making contact.
Now put your test lamp on the dist. side of the coil, that is, the low voltage terminal on the coil which goes to the distributor
Bump the engine over--easiest way is to short the starter relay on the firewall--and see if the lamp blinks off and on as the engine cranks
If the lamp stays on when cranking, that means that the points are not closing. They could be corroded, not set correctly or the wire to the points may have a break in it.
If the lamp blinks when cranking
and still no spark, then you might have a bad condenser in the distributor, or the coil may be bad
(If you leave the key on for long periods, it can heat up the coil or resistor, and damage or fail them)
On the other hand, if you do this test, that is, lamp on the dist. side of the coil, and crank engine, and the lamp STAYS OUT when cranking, that means that the points are not opening, and probably need adjustment, or that the wiring in the distributor is shorting to ground.
I guess you know how to set the points? I did not used to set them with a feeler gauge, just a dwell meter. You probably want to set them with a feeler, 'till you get the hang of it. With the points on a high spot on the cam, adjust the points to the proper feeler setting. Hell, I don't even remember what that is anymore, maybe .014-.020? Should be in yor book.
Here's a picture I found on the 'net of a 4 banger, showing how the points must be on the "top" of the lobe and fully open to set the gap
http://home.earthlink.net/~goodspeeds/DISTRIB.GIF
The MAIN thing, to get it running, is that they actually open and close.
Here's the long and short of it:
The ignition switch supplys power (when on) through the ballast resistor to the coil. When cranking, the ignition switch ALSO shorts across the ballast resistor to provide a hotter spark for starting.
The current from the battery starts from ground, up through the distributor case, through the closed points, the coil, the resistor/key, and back to the battery.
When the points open, the magnetic field in the coil that was built up because of the current through it collapses. This collapsing field generates voltage which then charges the condenser. In a split second, these two components oscillate their charge back and forth, generating an AC wave. This is what forms the spark. If the condenser is bad, missing, or shorted, no spark. If the points do not open and close, no spark
Now, a few things:
Did you check the shaft length of the two distributors? Does the new one actually rotate when you crank the starter?
This IS a "points" (breaker points, pre-71) distributor?
Can you tell if the points are opening and closing?
Do you have a test lamp or meter?
Do this test
:
Turn the key on, and hook your test lamp or meter from the coil low voltage terninals--one at a time--and the other test lead to ground.
You should get a light or voltage on one side or the other, maybe both if the points are open. (key on)
If you do not get power at the coil terminals, go up to the ceramic coil ballast resistor, and check both terminals of the resistor with your lamp.(key on) You should get power with the key on on both sides of the resistor. If you only have power on one side, the resistor is bad. If you don't have power on EITHER terminal, you have an ignition switch or wiring problem
If you DID get power at one or both coil terminals, here's next:
If you get power on BOTH sides of the coil, that means that the points are open or are not making contact.
Now put your test lamp on the dist. side of the coil, that is, the low voltage terminal on the coil which goes to the distributor
Bump the engine over--easiest way is to short the starter relay on the firewall--and see if the lamp blinks off and on as the engine cranks
If the lamp stays on when cranking, that means that the points are not closing. They could be corroded, not set correctly or the wire to the points may have a break in it.
If the lamp blinks when cranking
and still no spark, then you might have a bad condenser in the distributor, or the coil may be bad
(If you leave the key on for long periods, it can heat up the coil or resistor, and damage or fail them)
On the other hand, if you do this test, that is, lamp on the dist. side of the coil, and crank engine, and the lamp STAYS OUT when cranking, that means that the points are not opening, and probably need adjustment, or that the wiring in the distributor is shorting to ground.
I guess you know how to set the points? I did not used to set them with a feeler gauge, just a dwell meter. You probably want to set them with a feeler, 'till you get the hang of it. With the points on a high spot on the cam, adjust the points to the proper feeler setting. Hell, I don't even remember what that is anymore, maybe .014-.020? Should be in yor book.
Here's a picture I found on the 'net of a 4 banger, showing how the points must be on the "top" of the lobe and fully open to set the gap
http://home.earthlink.net/~goodspeeds/DISTRIB.GIF
The MAIN thing, to get it running, is that they actually open and close.
Here's the long and short of it:
The ignition switch supplys power (when on) through the ballast resistor to the coil. When cranking, the ignition switch ALSO shorts across the ballast resistor to provide a hotter spark for starting.
The current from the battery starts from ground, up through the distributor case, through the closed points, the coil, the resistor/key, and back to the battery.
When the points open, the magnetic field in the coil that was built up because of the current through it collapses. This collapsing field generates voltage which then charges the condenser. In a split second, these two components oscillate their charge back and forth, generating an AC wave. This is what forms the spark. If the condenser is bad, missing, or shorted, no spark. If the points do not open and close, no spark
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 02-20-2008 at 10:27 AM.
02-20-2008, 10:40 AM
#3
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lol thank you!
Well it's not points. I put electronic ign. in the old distributor and I was going to switch it to the new one, but the new one has electronic ign already. I don't know anything about the 318 or the distributor. It was given to me. Its a running engine and tranny and fired over with a carb (it needs a carb still), so i'm assuming the distributor is good. I was told it was a new distributor. The rotor in it looks better than the new one in my old distributor LOL. So...
I think, since the old one works and has the new electronic ign. i'm just going to switch the vacuum advance from the new one to the old one and see what that does. But, what you said about the wiring... I ran out of connectors and I do not have an ohm meter... so I connected the black wire to the coil (which worked immediately before I changed the distributor) and the red wire to the little plastic clip that has 2 prongs sticking out of it on the passenger side of the firewall. Now here is where it got messy... I ran out of connectors and had to use random wires ( the ones on it weren't long enough) and twist them and electrical tape them... it should STILL work that way though, I would imagine. There is a black wire going to the right prong on the clip (towards drivers side) and the other prong had the red distr. wire and a dark blue wire spliced and plugged in, so I did the same thing with the new one... spliced the red wire into the blue one and into the plug. Do you have any idea what the dark blue wire is? LOL It runs along the firewall with a bunch of other wires to a box on the drivers side that has hella wires hanging out of it LOL
Anyway, thanks for the help, I'll get out there shortly and mess with it and see whats going on.
Do you have any other information or ideas now that you know it doesn't have points? LOL I put Pertronix in the old distr. (yea yea i know =P ) but I have no idea whats in the new one.
I originally wanted to put the standard 318 in while I rebuild the poly then restore the car. The 318 needs valve covers and a 4bbl first though, and I need a cherry picker LOL that engine is a bit heavy haha!
Well it's not points. I put electronic ign. in the old distributor and I was going to switch it to the new one, but the new one has electronic ign already. I don't know anything about the 318 or the distributor. It was given to me. Its a running engine and tranny and fired over with a carb (it needs a carb still), so i'm assuming the distributor is good. I was told it was a new distributor. The rotor in it looks better than the new one in my old distributor LOL. So...
I think, since the old one works and has the new electronic ign. i'm just going to switch the vacuum advance from the new one to the old one and see what that does. But, what you said about the wiring... I ran out of connectors and I do not have an ohm meter... so I connected the black wire to the coil (which worked immediately before I changed the distributor) and the red wire to the little plastic clip that has 2 prongs sticking out of it on the passenger side of the firewall. Now here is where it got messy... I ran out of connectors and had to use random wires ( the ones on it weren't long enough) and twist them and electrical tape them... it should STILL work that way though, I would imagine. There is a black wire going to the right prong on the clip (towards drivers side) and the other prong had the red distr. wire and a dark blue wire spliced and plugged in, so I did the same thing with the new one... spliced the red wire into the blue one and into the plug. Do you have any idea what the dark blue wire is? LOL It runs along the firewall with a bunch of other wires to a box on the drivers side that has hella wires hanging out of it LOL
Anyway, thanks for the help, I'll get out there shortly and mess with it and see whats going on.
Do you have any other information or ideas now that you know it doesn't have points? LOL I put Pertronix in the old distr. (yea yea i know =P ) but I have no idea whats in the new one.
I originally wanted to put the standard 318 in while I rebuild the poly then restore the car. The 318 needs valve covers and a 4bbl first though, and I need a cherry picker LOL that engine is a bit heavy haha!
02-20-2008, 11:12 AM
#4
Oboy!! Now we have troubles
First, I would not switch the vacuum advance, until you sort out what you have. You might just add more problems.
I'm not familiar with Pertronix--can you post a picture or a link?
But here's the deal. There are very FEW if any electronic systems that you can mix and match components.
It sounds to me as if you have two systems?
An aftermarket Pertronix that you installed in a points type distributor?
A "new" distributor that is out of factory OEM vehicle?
If this is true, you need to do one of three things
Either get the thing back to the Pertronix, the way it was, and see if you can get spark,
or convert to the Mopar factory electronic--and I can help you there, and there is info on the net we can find,
or last, re-convert back to your stock points, at least until you get things sorted out.
It SOUNDS to me as if you connected a factory stock (OEM) electronic distributor into your system, and if so, it won't work, and worse, you may have damaged the distributor. What's inside those is a tiny electric coil. Was there any smoke, smell, etc, when you hooked it up?
Is this what you had with the Pertronix?
http://www.vetteclub.org/technicalti...x%20wiring.jpg
First, I would not switch the vacuum advance, until you sort out what you have. You might just add more problems.
I'm not familiar with Pertronix--can you post a picture or a link?
But here's the deal. There are very FEW if any electronic systems that you can mix and match components.
It sounds to me as if you have two systems?
An aftermarket Pertronix that you installed in a points type distributor?
A "new" distributor that is out of factory OEM vehicle?
If this is true, you need to do one of three things
Either get the thing back to the Pertronix, the way it was, and see if you can get spark,
or convert to the Mopar factory electronic--and I can help you there, and there is info on the net we can find,
or last, re-convert back to your stock points, at least until you get things sorted out.
It SOUNDS to me as if you connected a factory stock (OEM) electronic distributor into your system, and if so, it won't work, and worse, you may have damaged the distributor. What's inside those is a tiny electric coil. Was there any smoke, smell, etc, when you hooked it up?
Is this what you had with the Pertronix?
http://www.vetteclub.org/technicalti...x%20wiring.jpg
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 02-20-2008 at 11:33 AM.
02-20-2008, 11:25 AM
#5
I think, since the old one works and has the new electronic ign. i'm just going to switch the vacuum advance from the new one to the old one and see what that does.
I connected the black wire to the coil (which worked immediately before I changed the distributor) and the red wire to the little plastic clip that has 2 prongs sticking out of it on the passenger side of the firewall.
a black wire going to the right prong on the clip (towards drivers side) and the other prong had the red distr. wire and a dark blue wire spliced and plugged
.. spliced the red wire into the blue one and into the plug. Do you have any idea what the dark blue wire is? LOL It runs along the firewall with a bunch of other wires to a box on the drivers side
I connected the black wire to the coil (which worked immediately before I changed the distributor) and the red wire to the little plastic clip that has 2 prongs sticking out of it on the passenger side of the firewall.
a black wire going to the right prong on the clip (towards drivers side) and the other prong had the red distr. wire and a dark blue wire spliced and plugged
.. spliced the red wire into the blue one and into the plug. Do you have any idea what the dark blue wire is? LOL It runs along the firewall with a bunch of other wires to a box on the drivers side
I would not switch the vacuum advance 'til you get this sorted out
You lost me on the wiring. It sounds like black and red come out of the distributor? If so, this sounds like a factory stock (OEM) electronic distributor, and must hook up to the matching box
You are going to have to describe the wiring you have better. Do you have a camera that you can take a digital picture with?
Does the "new" stuff for the newer 318 have an ignition box that looks like this?
http://www.usaimports.co.uk/images/a8661.jpg
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 02-20-2008 at 11:33 AM.
02-20-2008, 11:44 AM
#6
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okie dokie...
The old distributor came with the car, it had points. I changed it to the pertronix electronic ign. The new distributor came with the standard 318 in my garage. It already had electronic ign (not sure which brand)... I took the distributor off of the 318 as it was and put it in the poly.
I'm not sure how to post pictures so i'll post links:
The box to what I put in the original distributor:
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=IMG_2174.jpg
The original distributor w/ new pertronix elec. ign:
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=IMG_2175.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/IMG_2176.jpg
New distributor how it was when I got it (and how it still is, sitting in my car):
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/IMG_2177.jpg
I know it's hard to help people who have no idea what they are doing!!!
I apologize HAHA! I guess in order to understand the help I am receiving, I need to first understand the mechanical lingo and whatnot LOL
=P
The old distributor came with the car, it had points. I changed it to the pertronix electronic ign. The new distributor came with the standard 318 in my garage. It already had electronic ign (not sure which brand)... I took the distributor off of the 318 as it was and put it in the poly.
I'm not sure how to post pictures so i'll post links:
The box to what I put in the original distributor:
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=IMG_2174.jpg
The original distributor w/ new pertronix elec. ign:
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=IMG_2175.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/IMG_2176.jpg
New distributor how it was when I got it (and how it still is, sitting in my car):
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/IMG_2177.jpg
I know it's hard to help people who have no idea what they are doing!!!
I apologize HAHA! I guess in order to understand the help I am receiving, I need to first understand the mechanical lingo and whatnot LOL
=P
02-20-2008, 11:47 AM
#7
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no there is no ignition box like that, that I have seen LOL!
as far as the wiring... yes the red and black wire coming from the distributor. Black to coil and red to the little clip on the firewall, I will take a pic of the clip right now. be right back.
as far as the wiring... yes the red and black wire coming from the distributor. Black to coil and red to the little clip on the firewall, I will take a pic of the clip right now. be right back.
02-20-2008, 11:56 AM
#8
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http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/IMG_2180.jpg
to the far left, the little white plastic clip with 2 prongs.
The right side has a black wire that was already there and I didn't touch it.
The left side had a dark blue wire spliced into the red wire from the distributor, I did the same thing when i put the new distributor in, I just used electrical tape instead of connectors LOL
Does that help at all?
to the far left, the little white plastic clip with 2 prongs.
The right side has a black wire that was already there and I didn't touch it.
The left side had a dark blue wire spliced into the red wire from the distributor, I did the same thing when i put the new distributor in, I just used electrical tape instead of connectors LOL
Does that help at all?
02-20-2008, 01:33 PM
#9
That's what I was afraid of---
the new distributor is a Mopar "factory" electronic distributor, and must be used with the external electronic box that I posted earlier. If you get the parts--the box, the dual ballast, etc, you can convert to this, but for now, I'd lay it aside, and either do one of two things:
Either reinstall the old dist. with the Pertronix, or reinstall the points and get that working. The picture of the firewall clears things up
In the picture of your firewall, the white object on the left is the coil ballast resistor, sometimes called the coil resistor or ignition resistor.
Originally it's job was to do this:
When you are trotting down the road, the alternator working correctly, you battery is NOT actually 12V, but rather 13.5-14V
Coils are designed to run with this resistor in circuit in order to drop the coil voltage down from the 14V at charge to more like 10-11V, varies with engine speed, and whether the battery is up, etc.
Now, when starting, the heavy current of the starter motor drags down the battery voltage, say, to 10V, less in winter----
so the coil would not make a good spark at this low voltage. In order to GET a good spark for starting, there's a separate wire from a separate post on the ignition switch that supplies full battery voltage DURING START to the coil, in other words, bypassing the resistor during starting.
This way, you get more battery voltage to the coil during crank.
THAT IS the entire reason that ignition resistors are used
So far as orginal wiring--the orange/red wires seem to be added. I THINK the wire to the right on the ballast is "ignition" which should be hot with key in run. This should connect to the same place--as the right hand side of the regulator. The left side (screw) of the regulator goes directly to the alternator field.
This appears to be the correct hookup for the Pertronix:
http://www.pertronix.com/support/man...itor12vneg.pdf
Here's a site I found with original diagrams:
http://www.mymopar.com/66to71_wiring.htm
and the underhood wiring for your car:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1966/66CoronetB.JPG
I know it might be a little hard to follow, but
Dark blue feeds 12V from the ignition sw (in run) to the regulator, IGN terminal, down at the bottom. From the regulator terminal, the 12V then goes up to the bottom of the resistor
.
Notice that only one wire is connected there. THIS TERMINAL is where the red wire coming from the Pertronix unit should connect, leaving the original wire intact
Then, the black from the Pertronix will connect to the coil negative--where the points used to connect from the distributor
If I've lost you, don't get discouraged. The fact that you can post pictures helps a lot.
the new distributor is a Mopar "factory" electronic distributor, and must be used with the external electronic box that I posted earlier. If you get the parts--the box, the dual ballast, etc, you can convert to this, but for now, I'd lay it aside, and either do one of two things:
Either reinstall the old dist. with the Pertronix, or reinstall the points and get that working. The picture of the firewall clears things up
In the picture of your firewall, the white object on the left is the coil ballast resistor, sometimes called the coil resistor or ignition resistor.
Originally it's job was to do this:
When you are trotting down the road, the alternator working correctly, you battery is NOT actually 12V, but rather 13.5-14V
Coils are designed to run with this resistor in circuit in order to drop the coil voltage down from the 14V at charge to more like 10-11V, varies with engine speed, and whether the battery is up, etc.
Now, when starting, the heavy current of the starter motor drags down the battery voltage, say, to 10V, less in winter----
so the coil would not make a good spark at this low voltage. In order to GET a good spark for starting, there's a separate wire from a separate post on the ignition switch that supplies full battery voltage DURING START to the coil, in other words, bypassing the resistor during starting.
This way, you get more battery voltage to the coil during crank.
THAT IS the entire reason that ignition resistors are used
So far as orginal wiring--the orange/red wires seem to be added. I THINK the wire to the right on the ballast is "ignition" which should be hot with key in run. This should connect to the same place--as the right hand side of the regulator. The left side (screw) of the regulator goes directly to the alternator field.
This appears to be the correct hookup for the Pertronix:
http://www.pertronix.com/support/man...itor12vneg.pdf
Here's a site I found with original diagrams:
http://www.mymopar.com/66to71_wiring.htm
and the underhood wiring for your car:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1966/66CoronetB.JPG
I know it might be a little hard to follow, but
Dark blue feeds 12V from the ignition sw (in run) to the regulator, IGN terminal, down at the bottom. From the regulator terminal, the 12V then goes up to the bottom of the resistor
.
Notice that only one wire is connected there. THIS TERMINAL is where the red wire coming from the Pertronix unit should connect, leaving the original wire intact
Then, the black from the Pertronix will connect to the coil negative--where the points used to connect from the distributor
If I've lost you, don't get discouraged. The fact that you can post pictures helps a lot.
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 02-20-2008 at 01:36 PM.
02-20-2008, 01:47 PM
#10
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Posts: n/a
LOL i'm not discouraged. I've been fighting with this car since october, but it takes time with the oldies. She's my only car, so I take public transportation for now, but at least I have an alternative way to get around. I don't want to rush this and mess something up, I want to do it right the first time. I just kinda don't know exactly what I'm doing and you guys on this forum are my only help! lol
you didn't lose me
i understood it!~
I'll just put the old one back in. I don't have the points anymore and i don't care to go buy new ones and mess with that LOL unless i HAVE to.
Why not change the vacuum advance?
you didn't lose me
i understood it!~
I'll just put the old one back in. I don't have the points anymore and i don't care to go buy new ones and mess with that LOL unless i HAVE to.
Why not change the vacuum advance?
02-20-2008, 01:50 PM
#11
I don't want you to change that until you get it running again. The car should run well, even if the advance does not work or is disconnected. I don't want you adding even more possibilities for added problems 'til you get it sorted out
Here's a pic I drew up, kinda showing the original wiring, and how the Pertronix fits in. It's laid out like your firewall, but I cannot tell if the two connections on the resistor are still correct. It does not matter if they are switched left to right. I think the wiring on the right side of your resistor goes to the coil, I'm not sure
Here's a pic I drew up, kinda showing the original wiring, and how the Pertronix fits in. It's laid out like your firewall, but I cannot tell if the two connections on the resistor are still correct. It does not matter if they are switched left to right. I think the wiring on the right side of your resistor goes to the coil, I'm not sure
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 02-20-2008 at 02:04 PM.
02-20-2008, 01:57 PM
#12
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right on, i can appreciate that.
The car ran well before I messed with it LOL besides the stalling. It would crank right up every time and stay running. I'm not really sure why I changed the distributor LOL It seemed like my last option I guess. haha
The car ran well before I messed with it LOL besides the stalling. It would crank right up every time and stay running. I'm not really sure why I changed the distributor LOL It seemed like my last option I guess. haha
02-21-2008, 04:46 AM
#14
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LOL i'm not discouraged. I've been fighting with this car since october, but it takes time with the oldies. She's my only car, so I take public transportation for now, but at least I have an alternative way to get around. I don't want to rush this and mess something up, I want to do it right the first time. I just kinda don't know exactly what I'm doing and you guys on this forum are my only help! lol
you didn't lose me
i understood it!~
I'll just put the old one back in. I don't have the points anymore and i don't care to go buy new ones and mess with that LOL unless i HAVE to.
Why not change the vacuum advance?
you didn't lose me
i understood it!~
I'll just put the old one back in. I don't have the points anymore and i don't care to go buy new ones and mess with that LOL unless i HAVE to.
Why not change the vacuum advance?
02-21-2008, 09:21 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
np girlie, you weren't bugging me. I'm always glad to help a new mopar enthusiast. Glad to see you found a good forum to get advice from. Some very knowledgeable people on here. Now stop procrastinating and get out to the garage, but get that homework done first.
02-21-2008, 09:46 PM
#18
Hi, kiddo
I assume you've set the timing?
How does it run, the same as you started this problem?
What I'd hoped was to get you back to a starting point. When you replace "stuff" with unknown "stuff" many times it simply adds to the problem.
later, if for some reason you decide to install the OEM Mopar electronic system, I can help you with that some. In some ways, it's more work to install, but uses "stock" parts and is probably more reliable than the Pertronix
Assuming it still runs as before, stalling, this sound more like a carb/ vaccum/ fuel problem, rather than ignition.
Even if the distributor vaccum advance fails (leaks) or even if the centrifugal (mechanical) advance sticks, the engine should still idle good.
So----
a few things to think over.
First, did this stalling problem just happen, or did you change something and then it developed?
Assuming it "just happened" here's a few thought:
There is some remote chance that the timing chain slipped, but if it is running "on the marks" so far as timing, then that is not the case.
What do you have for vacuum accessories? You can check easily by just following hoses. Power brakes? PCV valve? Cruise control?
Any of these, you can check by simply pulling the hoses and plugging them, even with your finger.
One common problem, is that the carb may have picked up some dirt, and one idle jet may be plugged. Can you adjust the idle speed?
Can you adjust the idle screws, and do they have any effect?
I assume you've set the timing?
How does it run, the same as you started this problem?
What I'd hoped was to get you back to a starting point. When you replace "stuff" with unknown "stuff" many times it simply adds to the problem.
later, if for some reason you decide to install the OEM Mopar electronic system, I can help you with that some. In some ways, it's more work to install, but uses "stock" parts and is probably more reliable than the Pertronix
Assuming it still runs as before, stalling, this sound more like a carb/ vaccum/ fuel problem, rather than ignition.
Even if the distributor vaccum advance fails (leaks) or even if the centrifugal (mechanical) advance sticks, the engine should still idle good.
So----
a few things to think over.
First, did this stalling problem just happen, or did you change something and then it developed?
Assuming it "just happened" here's a few thought:
There is some remote chance that the timing chain slipped, but if it is running "on the marks" so far as timing, then that is not the case.
What do you have for vacuum accessories? You can check easily by just following hoses. Power brakes? PCV valve? Cruise control?
Any of these, you can check by simply pulling the hoses and plugging them, even with your finger.
One common problem, is that the carb may have picked up some dirt, and one idle jet may be plugged. Can you adjust the idle speed?
Can you adjust the idle screws, and do they have any effect?
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 02-21-2008 at 09:52 PM.
02-22-2008, 08:58 AM
#19
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otay... i haven't done anything yet LOL the new distributor still sits in the engine .
But... a little background:
the car did this when I bought it, it is not a "new" problem lol
I put a new carburetor on it and had a friend that used to run mopars tune it for me, that was a huge help. It used to shake so violently @ idle and in gear...afterwards it was running so smooth, you couldn't even see a vibration...still stalling though.
no power anything - manual brakes, no power steering or anything of that nature.
new pcv valve. all new hoses. I checked the intake by spraying around it with carb cleaner or whatever while it was running... it never revved up.
It has a new alternator, battery, heater core, radiator, the valves have recently been adjusted, it has all new hoses, new motor mounts, new spark plugs and wires. the new pertronix electronic ign and I even changed the oil and filters too! LOL And yeah, i timed it after doing the valves and carb. I no longer have access to a timing light at the moment, I'll have to look into that when I get the distributor back in.
I cant' remember if I've done anything else to it LOL
I can tell you this: When I changed the oil a few days after buying the car... the oil was very thin and smelled really strong like gasoline. The oil i spilled even separated. LOL It doesn't smoke though. The only background the guy I bought it from gave me was.... "it needs headlights and an alternator and its a daily driver" haha.. nice guy eh?
But... a little background:
the car did this when I bought it, it is not a "new" problem lol
I put a new carburetor on it and had a friend that used to run mopars tune it for me, that was a huge help. It used to shake so violently @ idle and in gear...afterwards it was running so smooth, you couldn't even see a vibration...still stalling though.
no power anything - manual brakes, no power steering or anything of that nature.
new pcv valve. all new hoses. I checked the intake by spraying around it with carb cleaner or whatever while it was running... it never revved up.
It has a new alternator, battery, heater core, radiator, the valves have recently been adjusted, it has all new hoses, new motor mounts, new spark plugs and wires. the new pertronix electronic ign and I even changed the oil and filters too! LOL And yeah, i timed it after doing the valves and carb. I no longer have access to a timing light at the moment, I'll have to look into that when I get the distributor back in.
I cant' remember if I've done anything else to it LOL
I can tell you this: When I changed the oil a few days after buying the car... the oil was very thin and smelled really strong like gasoline. The oil i spilled even separated. LOL It doesn't smoke though. The only background the guy I bought it from gave me was.... "it needs headlights and an alternator and its a daily driver" haha.. nice guy eh?
Last edited by 66coronetgirlie; 02-22-2008 at 09:01 AM.
02-22-2008, 07:15 PM
#20
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This almost sound identical to the way a friends Chev 350 died, turned out he some how grounded all the spark plugs. We finally figured that out after tearing the entrie eletrical system down.
Before you start pulling more stuff of and changing things out, make your self a spark tester (link below) to see if the dizzy is actually sending a spark out, check all 8 wires (one at a time, don't mix em up), then start checking the connections, following the wiring from the dizzy backwards, the coil, any grounds etc! It sounds like the problem is electrical, the spark tester is a fast and esay way to see if you have a spark without trying to fire the engine up. I don't have much experience with the electric on these car yet, but the British make the worlds worst automotive electrical systems, so if I can figure those out you should be able to get this one running again!
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/spark-tester.html
Before you start pulling more stuff of and changing things out, make your self a spark tester (link below) to see if the dizzy is actually sending a spark out, check all 8 wires (one at a time, don't mix em up), then start checking the connections, following the wiring from the dizzy backwards, the coil, any grounds etc! It sounds like the problem is electrical, the spark tester is a fast and esay way to see if you have a spark without trying to fire the engine up. I don't have much experience with the electric on these car yet, but the British make the worlds worst automotive electrical systems, so if I can figure those out you should be able to get this one running again!
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/spark-tester.html
Last edited by 64fury; 02-22-2008 at 07:26 PM. Reason: spelling
02-24-2008, 09:15 PM
#21
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Died?!?!?!? Are chevy diseases contagious to mopars?!!!!! LOL
The wiring on this thing is a mess... you should see it LOL
I think someone got in there trying to mess around and didn't know exactly what they were doing. when I went in to hook up the wiper switch... oh man LOL I have all the schematics in the back of the factory service manual though, maybe it won't be to much of a pain ... haha. I hope.
I have no idea whats wrong with her, she needs to see a specialist! haha!
I think she has more than one problem going on and it's confusing me...grrr
The wiring on this thing is a mess... you should see it LOL
I think someone got in there trying to mess around and didn't know exactly what they were doing. when I went in to hook up the wiper switch... oh man LOL I have all the schematics in the back of the factory service manual though, maybe it won't be to much of a pain ... haha. I hope.
I have no idea whats wrong with her, she needs to see a specialist! haha!
I think she has more than one problem going on and it's confusing me...grrr
02-25-2008, 05:40 AM
#22
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If the wiring is so messed up, it may be cheaper in the long run to get a Painless kit!
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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