Menace78

Ok, Was looking for an old school project and ended up picking up a 68 Neport 2d hardtop for a steal at $300.
I even got all the paperwork including tab receipts since 68.
Delivery invoice and window sticker with option listing and final price with delivery. such an awesome find.
It sat or 7 years after a breakup that left the owner moving to another state.
It took only about 2h to get it up and running again, and drove it the short way home. breaks were non existent, and I see I have a bad master cylinder leaking into the floorboard.


Now comes the question,
It was sold with the power brake option, but I assume in the past the booster went out and someone replaced it with a manual master cylinder.
There is a large plate that the manual master cylinder bolts to, and that bolts to the firewall.
Am I able to get a new master cylinder/booster and just replace it? or were there more changes done to convert to a manual master?
I can get the manual master prety cheap, but would prefer the power option since it came with it, and it's just a good idea imo.

I have attached pics of the pedal attachment to the master and the master/firewall plate.

Any advice would be helpful.

demetri

In 68, a disc brake system was optional. I am almost certain that you do not have that (w/out a booster, you would not be able to stop the car), but just in case, you may want to clarify that.


Do you have a 383 or a 440? How is the condition of the car? Interior, exterior?

Menace78

You are correct. I have the 4wheel disk brakes. This is a mistake, I have 4 wheel drum brakes. Sorry for the confusion.
It has the 383 2bbl with Torqueflite trans, pretty sure it's a 727.

I'm the 3rd owner, and it came with a 4" stack of paperwork, covering probably close to every repair/service/replacement in it's lifetime. I even have the tab recipts for all years from 68-96 and the.

The good: New tires, new breaks (wheel cylinders/shoes/springs/master, new alternator, the factory 2bbl carb was rebuilt at a shop (all in the year prior to it being left to sit. newpaint, carpet and seat upholstery done in 87.

The Bad: Allot of stuck stuff. heater controls, window cranks, vacuum switches. There are 4 small dings, 3 scrapes, and 3 pieces of trip that will need replaced, as well as the cracked windshield. Vinyl top is destroyed, and I have already cut out the remaining material for now.
I think I got lucky on the rust. a lot of surface rust in the floorboards and on about 1/3 of the trunk floor, but all solid. cancer forming bottom corner of the rear window and on the rear pillar in 2 spots. all likely due to the bad top. and a small cancer spot on the firewall under the wiper motor.

Other than that, She runs good, drives great, very few creaks in the suspension, and floats like a boat should, just doesn't stop for nothing. lol

Got the pics up in my gallery.

demetri

Do you have a link for the gallery?


Sounds like you have the 4 piston caliper brakes (same as in my 68 Imperials). You need the booster.


My guess is that the booster will bolt right on, along with a longer pushrod.


You need to install a 4bbl carburetor and a manifold. Your performance will increase, without any detriment to fuel economy. In 68, the 2bbl and 4bbl 383's had the same camshaft, so you will have 4bbl performance without any compromise, and with low cost and effort.


A dual exhaust will help too, will make the car sound better too.

TVLynn

First off if you install power brakes The re enforcement plate needs to be removed. The plate is bolted to the firewall & the booster uses those holes in the firewall for mounting. If contemplating a big cam ? keep the manual brakes

Menace78

Sorry for the confusion, I should have looked over what I typed out.
I have 4 wheel drums. If I had any disks, I know I would need power for them to work.

Great info on the cam, I plan on doing some mild upgrades in the future, so I will keep that in mind. but for now. getting it stopping safe, and the rust issues taken care of are my priority.

And here's a link to my gallery https://moparforums.com/forums/membe...8-newport.html

Thanks,

moe7404

for 1967 the 383 had two compression ratios, 2 bbl 9.2 / 4 bbl 10.0. the 383 and 440 mild engine cam had a 256 intake degree, 260 ext degree. the HP 440, 268 intake degree, 284 ext degree. the mild 383-440 intake valve lift .425, ext .435 inch. HP 440 only intake .450, ext .458 inch. the cam in other years might be different. the Chrysler 1967 brake system says that the drum and disc brake master cyl are different. on the midland ross brake , power, shows a small plate, they call it a filter, between the booster and master cyl.. it has 4 holes. that goes between the booster and master cyl. 4 bolts. there is bigger thinner plate that goes between the booster and firewall. the push rod going to the master cyl has a length set to .929-.910 from the plate. they also had a bendix it is much bigger and not many made. hope that helps.

demetri

Beautiful car, great for saving it.


yeah, if you have drums all around, may be you don't need booster.

Menace78

I went and got a $20 reman manual master today. feels good on the pedal again.
I will eventually get her back to the way she was delivered and that means power breaks.
Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these loaded kits?
I still need to call up to see if this one comes with the rod, but if it does, shouldn't this be a bolt in replacement to get back to power again? If o, it seems reasonable.
Or is there anything else that needs to be changed with the pedal assembly?
I know I still need to add vacuum and deal with line movement.

TVLynn

A rebuilt Booster will always come with the linkage. The problem you will have is most shops will want to rebuild yours. Almost any booster will fit I would check the junkyard for a late 70's Cordova, Charger booster should fit... KEEP the old parts !!!!
Personally I would upgrade to disks those 11" drums are getting hard to find and expensive

Menace78

Awesome.
I'll be doing all the mechanical/Bodywork(minus the rechroming)/paint, so "shops" won't be an issue, I was just seeing lot about the pedal assembly being changed online. but didn't look like my assembly. so if there are no changes there, I'll be putting one of these in her in a couple months once I work out the rest of the daily cruiser bugs.

68plymouth383

I have a power brake setup out of a 68 chrysler Iam parting out. I have the power brake pedal assembly which is longer than the manual, I also have a booster I can sell. You can reach me ether by email or text 2 One 0- Eight 4 Three-9 zero 63 Jasons85dodgeram@Hotmail.com

moparted

you don't need a power booster for disk brakes to work

Rooty

I had vacuum power brakes on my 65 Fury but trashed them for hydroboost
for a number of reasons, mainly the weight of the car. If it goes fast, it has to
stop fast. You can buy a drum/drum master and at 7/8 to 1 inch bores they
work very well. You will have to make sure that the drums are true and new
shoes today are much better than in 68 when asbestos was popular, but the
slightest difference in adjustment of the fronts will introduce you to the ditch
or another car in a panic stop. Loss of engine power makes no difference with
manual brakes. You can also mount disks on the front ( SSBC has a nice kit )
and again you can stop very efficiently with a manual master. But look out
with a vacuum booster because once you lose vacuum you will need a lot
of reserve stroke at the brake pedal to get full travel at the master. Pumping
the brakes at this point is not an option. By time the rear shoes contact their
respective drums, you've consumed 50% or more of your pedal stroke. It
doesn't seem like much, but the clearance between the pedal rod and booster
added to the necessary clearance between the booster rod and master sure
adds up in a leveraged system. Regardless of how you power your braking
system, be sure the master strokes fully before the pedal hits the floor.

1968newport

Looking for components to switch to manual brakes. I have four wheel drum and plan to keep it that way.