diode between balast and start relay? what size?
 

Hey guys,
I have installled the painless10127 harness and when I turn the key to run the starter engages, then I noticed "one way" that painless shows is to use a diode between balast and start relay can you tell me what size and or mopar part number for the diode? working on a 73 Cuda with a 340 4 speed.
thank you,

Ken

Just get the biggest amperage diode in stock at Radio Shack, and make sure it has a PIV rating (peak inverse) of at least 40 volts

Another way around this problem is to get one of the small "Bosch" type relays and allow the key to fire it in parallel with the start relay, and wire the contacts to bypass your ballast

And, yet ANOTHER way is to find (not sure of the application) a later model start relay, which actually had the bypass circuit built into the start relay I would guess 80's something, and they have 5 or 6 terminals instead of the 4 yours has now.

Here's one I found on a very quick Gargoiyl image search. Appears to be off an 87 Jeep

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/StarterRelay.jpg

http://autorepair.about.com/library/...y1%20_199c.gif

Thank you, 440,
I think I got it now, I found a new and improved wire manual on painless and "now!" they show the ign 919 wire going to the I terminal on the start relay only, instead of how it was befor going to both "I" terminal and balast, so I am going to remove the one extra wire and see, but now I see where there is a dual balast shown with electronic ign. do I need a dual balast? I installed a single and I have electronic ignition.
Thank you for your help,
Ken

Dual ballast-----

There are two variations of the Mopar ECU box. HOWEVER you cannot tell (always) by looking. The early boxes are now known as a "5 pin" box, later boxes are known as "4 pin" but STILL MAY HAVE the 5th pin--it's just not connected

This was an internal change in the electronic box.

The early 5 pin boxes MUST use a 4 terminal (dual) ballast

The late 4 pin boxes CAN use EITHER a 4 or 2 terminal ballast--it's simply that if you use a 4 terminal ballast on a 4 pin box, it's not connected. But the point is, if you failed a box, and happened to get an early 5 pin box, AND you ALREADY were hooked up with a 4 pin (dual) ballast, you could then replace the box with either style

Hope this isn't all too confusing.

But this has nothing to do with the ballast bypass circuit. Either 4 or 2 pin ballast needs to have some sort of start bypass circuit.

Frankly, I'm not impressed with some of these aftermarket wiring outfits AS MUCH AS YOU PAID it seems to me they should address the issue of Mopar start circuits a lot better. Seems to me they treat the Mopar guys as if maybe we should put a Fraud/ Chivvy mota in our mopars.!!!!

ya 440, exactly, it seems Mopar is in the back of the bus, especialy with a Painless harness, I would not recomend a painless harness to anyone re-wireing a mopar it sucks period! I had no original harness to go by and the only thing even remotly nice about the harness is the wires are marked, only problem is you cant trust the instructions on where they end or begin at, so I would have been better off to buy plain wire and a bunch of number kits and started fresh, I had to do all the hard parts myself anyway. I could have bought a fuse block and wire and done it with way less pain.

anyway thanks for the help