msteinar@online.no

I have a 1938 Dodge truck, that my grandfather bought new in Norway. It has been restored in the 1990's, and then got a brand new Chrysler IND 251 motor block. Two years ago, I had increasing problems starting the engine, and I assume that I messed up a problem that could have been quite minor in the beginning.
The first symptom was that I had to pour gas into the carb to make it start. After a while, that was not sufficient. I have worked many evenings, trying to correct this problem. I have changed rotor and condenser. Points are still the same, seems hard to find. I have grinded them slightly, and adjusted their opening. I have checked all contacts, and ohmed the coil. Spark on the plugs seems OK. I have dissected the carb, cleaned it, and put it back together onto the engine. Still no success. A new problem came this summer. When I crank the engine, it fires once in a while. When it fires, first water, then oil started to flush out at one of the top bolts of the head. Yesterday evening, I happened to check the oil level stick. It smells gasoline, and the oil is quite colorless. Definitively gas in the motor oil. I cant stop thinking of all the times I had done some small adjustment, and poured gas into the carb. It seems that all of it ended up in the motor oil. And even worse; it may have eaten the gaskets?
So, now I am stuck. Did I mess everything up, even without solving the initial problem? Thanks for any suggestions and answers!

RacerHog

Sounds to me like we started off with a leaking fuel pump diaphragm that is leaking into the crankcase ?? Some of those fuel pumps can be rebuilt...

Also, Perform a compression test of the engine to make sure it is in good order to start with.....

Has the truck been converted to 12 Volts or is it still a 6 volt system?

Get that old oil out... See how much comes out?
has it ran lately... If not check the ignition system after fixing some of the other problems. Then we can move foward...
Welcome to the site... 1938 was a fine looking truck... Welcome Norwegian...

Iowan

I agree, change the oil and do a compression test.

msteinar@online.no

Voltage is still 6.

It is now 2 years since it ran. I have checked everything that I can come up with, but the engine still won't start. It fires in between. I can send a video to you if I get your e-mail address. Upload a picture here, yes it is a nice truck with great value to me because of the family history. But a pity it won't run. I understand today, that all of my tries to start pouring gas into the carb may have made things worse. But there must be another problem also, that I cannot correct. Gas og ignition.

One question: When I drain oil from the engine, will the oil from the gearbox also come out? Isn't that the same reservoir?

Thanks for any help!

Iowan

Nope to the question!

Iowan

Gear oil/ transmission oil, there's a difference.

RacerHog

No.... But if you left that fuel in the oil, Those bearings might be really pissed off rite around now... But will worry about that later..

Well... We know its getting fuel ! because have said you have poured a ships worth in it.

Lets move on to Ignition in this case... Do you have spark to the spark plugs?
If the answer is yes?

Pull the number 1 spark plug, Put the motor on Number 1 Top Dead Center and then Look at the distributor and mark the housing where the number 1 spark plug wire goes, and then pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the number one spark plug you marked on the distributor housing?

If thats all good..... We Move on....

msteinar@online.no

Thank you for all help so far! I have to pause for a while. My father passed away last Saturday eve.

I will be back!

Steinar

RacerHog

Sooooo Sorry for your loss.... May he R.I.P...

msteinar@online.no

I am (partly) back in business after my fathers funeral.

I drained oil from the engine. It was about 5 liters. May that be correct? What I can find on the net says 5 qts (quarts).

I will refill oil soon.

I will also change spark plugs. What are the correct spark plugs for my Chrysler Ind 251 flathead L6? I have googled, and found different recommendations.

Thanks!

RacerHog

I show it as an Auto-Lite AR-8

TVLynn

oil & water out the bolt ? suggests a bad head gasket Oil may not have been in the engine long enough to get color

msteinar@online.no

Hello! I am sorry for this long idle time. The Dodge truck had to wait, and now we have a cold winter.

The truck has a Chrysler IND251 that is not original. It was bought from the military, I think it must be an engine from the 1950's. I have googled a lot, and found a pdf-manual. It says that sprak plugs should be 14 mm thread, but does not say anything about reach. The plugs that have been used are 1/2", but all hits on google gives 3/8" reach. The ones I bought, an NGK replacment for AR-8, as suggested by RacerHog, are 3/8".

What do you think?

As to my starting problems, I have decided to go for a compression test, when weahter conditions are getting better.

RacerHog

Moen... Did you get my E-Mail back to you??????? That video you sent showed it spitting out the head bolt. Did you catch that?

msteinar@online.no

No, I'm afraid our corporate e-mail filter has stopped it. Do you think some valves are stuck?

msteinar@online.no

I found your reply. My account msteinar@online.no is the best choice for such e-mails. Yes, it may have a bad head gasket, but it's puzzle, because this engine has very few miles on it since brand new. I suspect valves are stuck. Could that cause this pitting throug head bolts?

msteinar@online.no

And what do you think about the spark plugs. Reach 1/2" or 3/8"?

RacerHog

Ok... I just replied to what you sent to my Gmail...
I would use the 3/8 AR-8....
Those are not to hard to get the head off of... ****** it off and see if the valves are stuck... If you see rust in the cylinder, you might need to check the rings...
Also Pull the side cover and make sure nothing got broken...
Pull the plugs and run a compression test.
Got to start somewhere...
Keep us posted.... Will stay tuned...

msteinar@online.no

Thank you! I've got some work to do, when temperature rises!

msteinar@online.no

Finally!
My Dodge truck has been sitting idle for 2 years. I have cranked the engine regularly, to avoid a seized engine. Last spring the disaster was a fact. The engine had seized. Cranking was impossible. I couldn't understand it, because only 1 month earlier, I cranked it. This summer I decided to take actions. I removed the head. Yes, pistons were stuck, with obvious corrosion on the cylinder walls, but only superficial. I put diesel in the cylinders, and sprayed with anticorrosives for several weeks. It still didn't let go. Finally I towed the truck several meters engaged in 4th gear. After about 10 meters, the stuck piston was freed.

The next problem was 3 stuck valves. 2 of them were freed by tapping slightly with a hammer. The last one was a problem. I sprayed it with anticorrosives for several weeks, but it didn't move. Finally I used brute force with a heavy steel hammer. Luckily it was stuck in open position. It started to move, but very little for each strike. The valve-pole bent, and everything looked impossible. At last I made the valve move fairly well,, and I managed to straighten the valve pole pretty good.

The original problem was obviously caused by a bad head gasket, or more accurately head bolts not being sufficiently tightened. Water leaked into the cylinders. Cranking the engine didn't help. It had to seize over time. After freeing the pistons and the valves, a new head gasket was bought on e-bay, and the head was mounted and bolts tightened as specified.

After some cranking, the engine started, and after being in a cloud of smoke for some minutes, the engine ran smoothly.

So, is everything perfect? No. The engine is still hard to start. My friends have different theories. One is that the distributor is to worn. Yes it slings as it spins. Another is that the carburetor is worn. Another is about the coil and maybe cables. I think that the ignition system is the main problem. First, I would like to buy a new distributor including rod. Secondly, I consider rebuilding from 6V to 12V. I know that it involves changing generator, starter and coil.

So, my question is: Is it possible to get a new distributor for this engine (Chrysler IND251)? Maybe an electronic type?

Is it possible to get a new 12V starter for this engine?
I take for granted that generator and coil is easy to get, even though I don't know which brand and type. I will also need a transformer for the instruments.

Thanks for your helpful advice!