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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st pete fl
Posts: 9
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help!???????
i have a 1969 road runner, i have put new wheel cylinders on all four wheels-yes it is power drum- new shoes and had them cut to the arc of the drum, new brake hoses, new power booster and master cyl., after bleeding the brakes and adj them when i crank up the car the pedal goes right to the floor, sorry about the long post -help
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: PNW, and LOVING IT!
Posts: 57
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Is there a loss of brake fluid? It could be a small hole in one of the steel lines. That would be my guess.
j |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 171
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right master cylinder?
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#4 (permalink) |
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Ph.D in wheelinology
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loose fitting?
__________________
Tim and Heather 1974 J10 - getting built up some more. built 360, built TH400, D300, D60(detroit)/14B(spool), SOA, inboard rear 64" springs, 38.5 thornbirds jeep pics - http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s63/jeeping1974/J10/ |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st pete fl
Posts: 9
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re help
thank you to all for replies, i have checked for leaks, no fliud is missing, and i even changed out the master cylinder for anouther one?????????
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#6 (permalink) |
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Ph.D in wheelinology
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have you tried to just let them gravity bleed?
__________________
Tim and Heather 1974 J10 - getting built up some more. built 360, built TH400, D300, D60(detroit)/14B(spool), SOA, inboard rear 64" springs, 38.5 thornbirds jeep pics - http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s63/jeeping1974/J10/ |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st pete fl
Posts: 9
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i did try that , no sucess, with the car not running it has a pretty good pedal, just when i crank it up it goes to the floor
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#8 (permalink) |
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Ph.D in wheelinology
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how did you bleed the master cylinder? did you bench bleed it or with it in the car? Is is brand new or a reman unit? I have had reman ones be bad before. The gaskets on the piston don't always seal right.
__________________
Tim and Heather 1974 J10 - getting built up some more. built 360, built TH400, D300, D60(detroit)/14B(spool), SOA, inboard rear 64" springs, 38.5 thornbirds jeep pics - http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s63/jeeping1974/J10/ |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 427
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Do you have brake fluid coming out when you bleed your system and is someone helping you or do you have a vacuum bleeder any air coming out of lines >>> also 78D200 is correct and i would test your mc i have also had bad ones come from autoparts stores
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#10 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st pete fl
Posts: 9
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i have fluid coming out when i bleed the system, i also started at the right rear and bleed accordingly, i did bench bleed the m/c and no air only fliud coming thru, i also had someone -dad- help me, i really appreciate all you guys trying to help me figure this one out, thank you craig
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#11 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 427
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hey craigsfcs i have to ask but what do you mean when you say you had your shoes cut to the arc of the drum ???? you also might want to see if your booster is any good
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#12 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 427
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i would also jack up the front or rear (not running) and push on the peddal and see if you have brakes <<>> can you push on the break peddal really hard and hold it , and does it stay in place (not running) or does it settle to the floor ?
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#13 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 328
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check to make sure your booster is working and you still have the master cylinder full after you bleed the brakes
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#14 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st pete fl
Posts: 9
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first thank you all , mr challanger , i forgot to say i have had this car for 25 years and just in the last year have started putting it back together, when i bought the drum shoes f and r they took the shoes and after turning the drums , made the shoes match each drum, they dont do that any more, again thanks and im off to check out all the above mentioned- thank you craig
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#15 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 171
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i wonder if the paportioning valve took a crap? or has junk in it i see that you have had it for 25 yrs and just started putting it back together id check and go through all of the eq that hasnt been replaced yet might have some dirt in it some where might work fine not under powerbrake pressure but under it it might lodge itself against the port hole id start from the master cylinder lines and work back blowing air each way in the lines making sure there clear then compressing the rest of the fluid out of the wheel cylinders while watching it to see if any clogs then reattach everything then bleed the system this would scratch a clog off the list also has anything been done to the power booster? maybe it might have a hole in the diaphram causin blow by this could also give a weak pedal anyways with this being a 69 rr and having a pretty basic braking system its just a matter of checked or being checked but start from the begining and work your way back on each line all unhooked if blowing them out with air that way they wont just move the debri into another part of the lines goodluck and hope you get her stopping
ef8 |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st pete fl
Posts: 9
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thank you , tomorrow i am going to break loose all the lines and start from scratch, i have all new parts ,m/c and then anouther one till i got one that would bench bleed , new power booster, wheel cyl, and all hoses. again thank all you guys , its great to get advice - craig
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#17 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 427
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You are welcome Craig and let us no how it goes so we can get it figured out for you k
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#18 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st pete fl
Posts: 9
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i am still working on it, i have ordered a new p-valve and m/c , and i am going to blow out the lines , will keep you posted thank you again
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#19 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New jersey
Posts: 97
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Try bleeding it with the engine running, without the vacuum you may not be getting the pedal travel you need to purge all the air from the lines.
__________________
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#20 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st pete fl
Posts: 9
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thanks guys for all your help. heres what found out if it helps anyone. i found that my cam is too radical and not enough vacuum, even with a can. so i didnt want to do a elec pump, so i wnet to manual, purchased a m/c from mb brakes and a new p-valve, and blew out the lines , reassembled all and i have brakes, and a car that sounds all kinds of bad-the good bad.. again thank you all i really appreciate everyones help.
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#21 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 328
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wow, i never thought of that
well, good luck with it now |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Ph.D in wheelinology
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I have heard of that before. guys running large cams have that problem a lot. I just never thought to ask about it. At least you figured it all out.
__________________
Tim and Heather 1974 J10 - getting built up some more. built 360, built TH400, D300, D60(detroit)/14B(spool), SOA, inboard rear 64" springs, 38.5 thornbirds jeep pics - http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s63/jeeping1974/J10/ |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st pete fl
Posts: 9
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yes i never thought about it , i was focused on the brakes, and i didnt relize the ridiculus cam i have in it was messing with the power booster, i thought the resrve can would fix the problem -but no, thats when i figured a easy way to remedy this was go manual brakes, thank you all again
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