GMdude

GM HEI module creates a hotter spark and doesn't use a ballast resistor. this is the way I do it:

1. Get a standard Chrysler electronic ignition distributor (wrecking yard, auto show, etc.). Get a good quality HEI module such as NAPA Echlin TP-45, ACDelco D-1906, or Standard-Bluestreak LX-301. Fetch a piece of aluminum 1/4" thick by about 2" by about 3-1/2" Drill two holes in it to match the HEI module's mounting holes Heat sink compound comes with every new HEI module. Squirt some onto your mount plate, put the HEI module on the plate, and secure the plate and module to the inner fender. Strictly speaking, this aluminum mounting plate is optional. It helps assure temperature and mount stability of the module. the mod can be done by just bolting the module to the inner fender with acceptable results, but in the long term, the aluminum is probably worth the trouble.
2. Remove ballast resistor. Discard or keep in glove compartment to rescue fellow Mopar owner. Take the two connectors that used to connect to the resistor, and connect them to each other instead

7. Add a relay:8. Assure is a proper module ground. It's rather difficult not to have this just by installing the module, but I like to run a ground wire to one of the module mounting bolts just to be sure.
9. Use either a standalone late-model spool-type coil (GM or Mopar) or spend the $35 on an MSD Blaster, which fits the stock can-type coil bracket. At the very least use a coil such as the Standard-BlueStreak #UC16 or NAPA Echlin #IC27. It's best, though, to use a coil intended for use with a high energy ignition system. If you'd like to mount the module off by itself somewhere, then a good coil option is the stock external-mount GM HEI coil used on 1975-84 GM cars (mostly with 4-cylinder engines). The coil is a Standard/BlueStreak DR35. 12. The price of the electronic ignition's performance is paying more careful attention to the condition of your distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires. You can also change them out. The trick piece in this department is a NAPA Echlin long-tip rotor # MO-3000, which has a brass contact 0.060” longer than stock. This means less arcing inside the distributor, which means less burn wear on the cap and rotor contacts and less ignition noise in your radio. Be careful about Echlin or Accel distributor caps, though; many of them are ground off-centre and can cause carnage when the rotor—especially the longer special one—hits one of the improperly-ground, too-big cap contacts. The safer alternative is a Standard-Bluestreak CH-410X. Get Magnecor wires and you won't have to think about your spark plug cables again for a very long time.
13. Drive and enjoy.

this works very well and the cost is about $35.00 ..

GMdude

it's really not as hard as it sounds .. the gm mod was like 20 bucks .. the relay was like 5 bucks and then just rolls of wire and spade connectors.. really if you don't want to you don't have to use the relay ... i like to use one so that i know that i have good connections and wire ... you can just use the wire that goes from the resistor to the coil .. off the top of my head ..thinking it the brown one ??? only thing you have to watch is the wiring from the dizzy to the gm mod ..if car no start .. switch the two wires .... if i knew how to post pics in here i would show you my set up .. it's not that neat.. could be better .. but it works

GMdude

and yes mr bird .. sniping a harness from a parts yard is a good idea ,, i just didn't want to make that trip .. .. how much could one be from the parts store ,,, few dollars ..

richinny

interesting setup. i like recycling! and... nothing at the parts store is "only a few dollars" anymore :-(

thanks for the post.