72RDRNR

Iam having issues with my turn signals. They are not working... I have replaced the flasher and can hear it "blink" but lights dont work. Hazards do work. Need ideas of what to check. I am assuming switch is fine since I can hear flasher?? and obviously lights are ok since hazards work.

sweeperking

What kind of car? Is it a fast sounding "blink" ?

72RDRNR

72 RR. The flasher has a normal paced blink. When hazards are on all lights are working.

scotts74birds

From the schematics it appears the circuits for the turns and hazard both exit the column to their respective flashers, then return to the column/harness to then feed one, or both sides. The turn signal switch/harness can become a very busy place if the turn signals share the same lamp as the brakes, and must flash/interrupt the brake light when it is applied. The diagrams dont show what goes on in the TS switch. I'm leaning towards the wiring, connectors in/at the column, or the Tsig switch itself. Can you follow the schematic to ensure you are getting the flashing return from the sig flasher to the column harness? You still have those diagrams?

sweeperking

I'm thinking you have a short some where after the flasher and before any of the lights. The flasher acts like a circuit breaker and each light bulb provides a ground. Try this once, remove all the bulbs for the turn signals, front, back, left, and right to include any side marker lights that blink. Turn a left or right on and see if you can still here the flasher click. If so you have short some where.

scotts74birds

That is a good suggestion, however, the short would have to be before the turn sig selector. Else one or the other "unshorted" sides would work. And if it were in the actual lighting circuit, then 4-way flasher function would have been affected also.

72RDRNR

Thanks guys. This gives me something to look at tonight. I do still have the diagrams from mymopar

sweeperking

Ya know your right, guess I put too much thought into it but the short (if that is what is wrong) would have to be before the switch and....with that said the problem could be in the switch.

toad490

Make sure you have a good ground from the engine to the frame, a poor ground will cause all kinds of weird things.

scotts74birds

Damn! I didn't think of it! You coulda just been low on blinker fluid this whole time!!!

1966sportfury

its not funny blinker fluid is spendy!!

scotts74birds

I know! They have to "special order" it every time I need it!

1966sportfury

very hard to get!! i know it on the lines of compression in a can, muffler bearings, and piston return springs....all very hard to get!
dont forget brake pad grease!

scotts74birds

I always loved the "piston return spring"! A classic! Your thread has officially been "whored" buddy! Just kidding, still here for help.

sweeperking

FYI did you know that there is actually a "piston return spring". I used that term a lot when I was in the Army till a weapons specialist showed me one. I forget exactly where it goes but it installs in a high caliber weapon. Boy did he put me in my place.

72RDRNR

You guys are great help!! I was able to get the rear blinkers going but not the front. The closest parts store only had red blinker fluid. I guess red fluid is not compatible with my amber lenses in front. Now I have an even bigger mess trying to get it out. Is there a petcock o the front blinker system anywhere??

72RDRNR

I'm not an electrician by any means (thanks for all your help the last couple years Scotty), me reading electrical diagrams would be like most people reading chemical formulas... So I have taken your advice and tested the switch by this meathod that I found, http://70duster440.com/Column%20Wiring.jpg . The first thing I grabbed was my multimeter. So I did as the article said and probed the white then the green, lt grn, brown etc... and I got a reading of 300ish with the switch in all 3 posistions(one gave me 150ish). I am guessing this means I need a new switch? If so do I need to pull the steering wheel to get to the switch? Thanks.