Timing marks off

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Old 05-22-2012, 05:37 AM
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Timing marks off

Have a dilema with the Belvedere.....360 with msd ignition. Haven't been able to time the car with a light up until I installed the msd ignition recently (wouldn't flash....think it was a bad ground).....just used to time it using vacuum guage. Now that the light works, my timing mark shows up about 60 degrees advanced (initial) on the balancer! So, I used a piston stop and found tdc.....put a new pointer and tdc mark on the opposite side (passengers) of the original one, and I get the same thing.....the mark is way off (advanced). Also, when at tdc, the rotor is pointing between #1 & #8 fon the distributor. Not sure where to turn on this one....anyone ever have anything like this happen?
Old 05-22-2012, 08:02 AM
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On a small block my book says the rotor should be pointing at number one cylinder at top dead center. And are you sure you not using one of the new lights that tells you total timing. That would make more sense.
Old 05-22-2012, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by bremereric
On a small block my book says the rotor should be pointing at number one cylinder at top dead center. And are you sure you not using one of the new lights that tells you total timing. That would make more sense.
Yes, it should be pointing at #1......timing light is an inductive craftsman with no settings.
Old 05-22-2012, 09:27 AM
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Research your MSD, I'm not familiar with their stuff --and make sure there is no advance delay "built into" the box

What dist. are you using? If you are triggering the MSD with a Mopar dist, it's possible that the pickup wire leads are REVERSED, which changes what is called "rotor phasing."

Your light. IF you have a "dial up" light, MIStrust it until you can prove it's right One way to do that is to make sure TDC is marked correctly, and then degree the wheel at a couple of points, say, 20 adn 40, so you can compare readings with the light.

How did you perform the TDC check? Is it possible you effed up there?

Is it possible your balancer has a problem and that the outer ring is loose enough that it is STILL slipping?

(One thing you can do there, is after you CARFULLY determine TDC, is to try and find a place, like on the backside, of the balancer where you can see and access the inner hub and the outer ring. Make a substantial scribe mark across the two and then you'll have a check

Here's the thing about the rotor "pointing."

If you have an engine where you want the timing at a fair amount of initial, say, 15*, with the engine stopped with the timing marks AT 15BTC, the rotor should JUST BE APPROACHING the no1 plug tower contact "corner to corner."

If you rotate the engine TO TDC, the rotor COULD VERY WELL be a little past the no1 contact.

REMEMBER Spark DOES NOT HAPPEN at TDC, it happens WHEREVER YOU SET initial timing
Old 05-22-2012, 06:09 PM
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I don't know...I've always timed by feel. You know, advance until it pings and then back off a skosh. Doesn't matter much what the timing says at that point. I keep a 1/2" wrench in the center console and adjust as needed.
Old 05-23-2012, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 440roadrunner
"Research your MSD, I'm not familiar with their stuff --and make sure there is no advance delay "built into" the box"

-checked and all is good.

"What dist. are you using? If you are triggering the MSD with a Mopar dist, it's possible that the pickup wire leads are REVERSED, which changes what is called "rotor phasing."

-checked and tried in both positions when I installed, all wire colors match and wouldn't run for crap until I switched it to what it is now

Your light. IF you have a "dial up" light, MIStrust it until you can prove it's right One way to do that is to make sure TDC is marked correctly, and then degree the wheel at a couple of points, say, 20 adn 40, so you can compare readings with the light.

- don't have a dial up light ....msd recomends regular inductive do to random flashes with dial up light.

How did you perform the TDC check? Is it possible you effed up there?

-used a piston stop and marked spot at tdc during compression stroke (both valves closed with valve cover off and pressure against finger over plug hole) and then turned opposite until hit again and marked the balancer. split the difference and made new mark.....matched original pretty close (within a couple of deg).

"Is it possible your balancer has a problem and that the outer ring is loose enough that it is STILL slipping?"

-not sure on that one, but I think it's good

(One thing you can do there, is after you CARFULLY determine TDC, is to try and find a place, like on the backside, of the balancer where you can see and access the inner hub and the outer ring. Make a substantial scribe mark across the two and then you'll have a check

Here's the thing about the rotor "pointing."

If you have an engine where you want the timing at a fair amount of initial, say, 15*, with the engine stopped with the timing marks AT 15BTC, the rotor should JUST BE APPROACHING the no1 plug tower contact "corner to corner."

If you rotate the engine TO TDC, the rotor COULD VERY WELL be a little past the no1 contact.

-It's quite a bit past (about half way)

REMEMBER Spark DOES NOT HAPPEN at TDC, it happens WHEREVER YOU SET initial timing
Thanks for your help!
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