Track Lessons Learned/1/4 Mile time
09-02-2011, 04:51 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Track Lessons Learned/1/4 Mile time
Ladies and gentleman! I got off work today a little before noon. So what did I do? I went with a friend of mine to the local drag strip to test the Dart Custom! It did surprisingly well I thought it would be slower. But my biggest issue going was the lack of knowledge of the track layout and rules which got me laughed at a couple of times by all the senior guys at the track, but that’s ok I got the new guy treatment from my friend and the longtime vets that wanna see fresh young guys at the track with new things and ideas. With all that being said I want to save everyone the headache of and embarrassment of the super noob profile at the track. After I lay down what I have learned about the track life I will post my times for the Dart!
First know where these places are so anxious people wont Bark at you when you ask
When you first come through the competitor's gate, the track will have given you a schedule for the event. Check to see when you can make your time-trial passes. It is also a good idea to pit where you can hear the public address (PA) loudspeakers. This way you can hear them "call" for the class of cars they are running next. Many tracks have an FM radio channel broadcasting the PA so bring a small FM radio and a headset. Veteran racers have a good "feel" for how much time they will have between racing rounds so they do not get right back into the staging lanes after making a run. Instead, they will "pit", check or "tweak" the car, talk with other racers, watch some of the racing action or just grab a bite to eat or a drink. Once you pull your car back into the staging lanes you must stay ready to jump in it and run so stay near your car. When in the staging lanes, DO NOT lock up your car and go to the snack bar!
This is how the starting line environment works. You will be lined up behind several other racers and will be motioned out of the staging lanes by a track worker when it's your turn to run. Pay close attention to these track workers and follow their hand signals. (Basic pull forward, stop, or go to that lane hand signals.) At smaller events, you might have to wing it. Whatever you do, don't do anything rash at this point or you'll risk being tossed out of the track. The drag strip will have a burnout area about 40 or 50 feet behind the starting line. The area usually has a shallow concrete trough with a little water in it and if you're running drag slicks, the idea is to position your car so the rear wheels are in the trough. Whatever you do, don't start your burnout until the starting line person or a track worker motions you to do so.
They will want you to wait until the cars in front of you leave the starting line and have cleared the area. A burnout is NOT a good idea for most street tires because they give better traction cold, so if you are a beginner bracket racer, running on street tires, don't complicate your starting line procedure with a big smoky burn-out. You would be best advised to drive AROUND the water and get the car positioned in the center of your assigned lane, with the wheels pointed straight. If you leave enough room, you may want to do a quick "throttle punch" just to get a feel for the starting line's traction. If you get immediate wheel spin you will know to take it easy at the start of the race. Watch some of the other racer's technique for pointers on the staging process, but remember, just because all those fancy race cars with slicks do burn-outs, it does not mean that you have to do one too.
First know where these places are so anxious people wont Bark at you when you ask
- the entrance gate for the racers (this can be different from the spectator's gate)
- the Tech Inspection area
- the staging lanes (which are usually assigned to certain class cars, to line-up together in certain lanes)
- the water box for your burnouts (if needed)
- the starting area
- the finish line and speed trap (it's a bigger area than you think)
- the shack where you'll pick up your time slip
- the water tap and oil disposal drums (in case you need them)
- a radiator overflow "catch-can" (1 quart or larger)
- a battery hold-down strap
- no hubcaps or wheel covers (they don't want them flying-off)
- all the wheel studs & lug nuts (they don't want wheels flying-off either!)
- seat belts
When you first come through the competitor's gate, the track will have given you a schedule for the event. Check to see when you can make your time-trial passes. It is also a good idea to pit where you can hear the public address (PA) loudspeakers. This way you can hear them "call" for the class of cars they are running next. Many tracks have an FM radio channel broadcasting the PA so bring a small FM radio and a headset. Veteran racers have a good "feel" for how much time they will have between racing rounds so they do not get right back into the staging lanes after making a run. Instead, they will "pit", check or "tweak" the car, talk with other racers, watch some of the racing action or just grab a bite to eat or a drink. Once you pull your car back into the staging lanes you must stay ready to jump in it and run so stay near your car. When in the staging lanes, DO NOT lock up your car and go to the snack bar!
This is how the starting line environment works. You will be lined up behind several other racers and will be motioned out of the staging lanes by a track worker when it's your turn to run. Pay close attention to these track workers and follow their hand signals. (Basic pull forward, stop, or go to that lane hand signals.) At smaller events, you might have to wing it. Whatever you do, don't do anything rash at this point or you'll risk being tossed out of the track. The drag strip will have a burnout area about 40 or 50 feet behind the starting line. The area usually has a shallow concrete trough with a little water in it and if you're running drag slicks, the idea is to position your car so the rear wheels are in the trough. Whatever you do, don't start your burnout until the starting line person or a track worker motions you to do so.
They will want you to wait until the cars in front of you leave the starting line and have cleared the area. A burnout is NOT a good idea for most street tires because they give better traction cold, so if you are a beginner bracket racer, running on street tires, don't complicate your starting line procedure with a big smoky burn-out. You would be best advised to drive AROUND the water and get the car positioned in the center of your assigned lane, with the wheels pointed straight. If you leave enough room, you may want to do a quick "throttle punch" just to get a feel for the starting line's traction. If you get immediate wheel spin you will know to take it easy at the start of the race. Watch some of the other racer's technique for pointers on the staging process, but remember, just because all those fancy race cars with slicks do burn-outs, it does not mean that you have to do one too.
09-02-2011, 04:53 PM
#2
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Take a minute before you make your first pass to look at the Christmas Tree. At the top, you will see a vertical pair of amber bulbs marked "Pre-stage" and "Stage". They are either illuminated or dark, depending on whether or not a pair of photocells across the starting line (at near ground level) can "see" a pair of spotlights on the opposite side of the lane. (By the way, on the starting line, the cells are in the middle of the track and the lights are outboard, it's exactly opposite at the finish line. Light bulbs are cheaper than photocells and if you drive over anything at the finish line, the track wants it to be lights instead of photocells.) Pulling up to the starting line, your front tires will first break the "pre-stage" beam, illuminating the top bulb. Roll exactly eight inches farther, and your tires will break the "stage" beam, illuminating the second stage bulb. In NHRA competition, you must have both staging bulbs illuminated before the starter will begin the starting light sequence. "Deep staging," by continuing to roll forward would turn off the "pre-stage" bulb, leaving only the stage bulb lit, in effect, moving the car closer to the actual starting (and finish) line. Some events allow you to do this if you write "DEEP" on your window. Doing this can help improve the reaction times of slow reacting cars. Whatever technique you use, it is important to stage your car in EXACTLY THE SAME PLACE every time you come to the starting line. The best bet is to move the car up into the staging beams SLOWLY and stop right when the second "stage" light comes on. Below the pre-stage and stage lights are three to five amber flood lamps, then a green one and a red one, in descending order. Typically, (although by no means always) the amber and green bulbs will be lit at 0.5 second intervals to start the race. Sometimes the interval is 0.4 seconds. If you're in doubt, ask the starter what the interval is going to be.
Once you have "launched" the car (left the starting line) you will need to concern yourself with keeping the car straight and shifting gears. This could be as easy as keeping the gas pedal firmly pinned to the floor and letting a properly adjusted automatic transmission in "Drive" shift when it wants. If your A.T. will do this without over or under revving the engine, then that will be the most consistent and best way to get the shifting job done. If you have to shift the gears yourself, then you will need a tachometer so you can perform the shift at the same RPM every time. (If you look in the race cars, they all have BIG tachs with programmable shift lights to help them do this CONSISTENTLY.) One thing you should know is that there is a "centerline rule", if for any reason your car crosses the track's centerline and into the other car's lane, you loose instantly, just like a red light.
As you approach the finish line you will want to know how your competitor is doing. Is he behind you, coming up fast, is he right next to you or in front of you? Who is gaining? You need to judge "closure speed" in relation to the finish line. The idea is to cross the finish line just ahead of the other car, (duh)
It does not matter if you beat the other car by an 1/8 inch or an 1/8 mile! Know exactly where the finish line is and keep in mind that your speed will be measured both 66 feet in front of and after the actual finish line. The speed "trap" is 132-feet long (one-tenth of the quarter), so if you back off the throttle fast, right at the finish line, you will receive an erroneous mph readout. (Even worst, you could get the car "loose" and end-up in the weeds.) Ease out of the throttle and gently apply the brakes as needed, there is lot's of "run-off" area. Now that the run is finished and you have slowed down, you need to exit safely onto the return road. The convention is that the car in the lane closest to the return road exits first so even if you beat or end-up ahead of the car in the lane closest to the exit road, slow way down or stop until that car exits, then follow him off the track. DO NOT CUT IN FRONT OF THE OTHER CAR.
Hey you did it! As you make your way down the return road, stop off at the timing shack to pick up your elapsed time slip. Be sure you save this time slip. It's full of good information. Head back to the pits and get out your notebook (you did remember a notebook) so you can record your run. If you get thrashing on the engine between rounds, make a mental note not to get back into the staging lanes until you record the changes. This good habit will separate the winners from the losers.
CHECKLIST: The time for major changes to the car is not between rounds at a national meet. You should make sure the car is basically together before trailering it (or driving it) to the track. However, don't feel like you're the first person to want to make drag strip tuning changes in the pits.
Here's a list of items we've seen in the hands of seasoned track vets at thel tracks. These items range from basic necessities to specialized tools for track side tuning:
1. Tire pump or small cylinder of compressed air
2. Tire pressure gauge (An accurate low pressure gauge)
3. New set of spark plugs. Another set one heat range colder (optional)
4. Plug wrench and socket
5. Extra quart of oil and tranny fluid
6. Distributor wrench
7. Spare point set, condenser, point file, ballast resistor & ECU if electronic ignition
8. Timing light
9. Basic tool kit
10. Thickness gauge
11. Jumper cables
12. Rags, towels, and fender covers
13. White shoe polish
14. Floor jack (or bottle jack) and jack stands
15. Duct tape & nylon ties
16. Jets and gaskets
17. Most important of all, take a notebook and use it to record your runs, jetting changes, timing changes, tire pressures, outside air temp and weather (is it cloudy or bone dry?), spark plug heat range and readings, and anything else that might make a difference the next time you show up at this track.
My friend brought a truck with a bin to carry this stuff plus he ran his truck which is a twin turbo 98 dodge diesel that ran a freekn 12.8! well basically like I said in the beginning I just wanted to let you know some things so you don’t look like an *** out there like I did lmao!
My best run was a 20.45@66.62MPH!! Leaning TOWER of POWER! Beast!
Once you have "launched" the car (left the starting line) you will need to concern yourself with keeping the car straight and shifting gears. This could be as easy as keeping the gas pedal firmly pinned to the floor and letting a properly adjusted automatic transmission in "Drive" shift when it wants. If your A.T. will do this without over or under revving the engine, then that will be the most consistent and best way to get the shifting job done. If you have to shift the gears yourself, then you will need a tachometer so you can perform the shift at the same RPM every time. (If you look in the race cars, they all have BIG tachs with programmable shift lights to help them do this CONSISTENTLY.) One thing you should know is that there is a "centerline rule", if for any reason your car crosses the track's centerline and into the other car's lane, you loose instantly, just like a red light.
As you approach the finish line you will want to know how your competitor is doing. Is he behind you, coming up fast, is he right next to you or in front of you? Who is gaining? You need to judge "closure speed" in relation to the finish line. The idea is to cross the finish line just ahead of the other car, (duh)
It does not matter if you beat the other car by an 1/8 inch or an 1/8 mile! Know exactly where the finish line is and keep in mind that your speed will be measured both 66 feet in front of and after the actual finish line. The speed "trap" is 132-feet long (one-tenth of the quarter), so if you back off the throttle fast, right at the finish line, you will receive an erroneous mph readout. (Even worst, you could get the car "loose" and end-up in the weeds.) Ease out of the throttle and gently apply the brakes as needed, there is lot's of "run-off" area. Now that the run is finished and you have slowed down, you need to exit safely onto the return road. The convention is that the car in the lane closest to the return road exits first so even if you beat or end-up ahead of the car in the lane closest to the exit road, slow way down or stop until that car exits, then follow him off the track. DO NOT CUT IN FRONT OF THE OTHER CAR.
Hey you did it! As you make your way down the return road, stop off at the timing shack to pick up your elapsed time slip. Be sure you save this time slip. It's full of good information. Head back to the pits and get out your notebook (you did remember a notebook) so you can record your run. If you get thrashing on the engine between rounds, make a mental note not to get back into the staging lanes until you record the changes. This good habit will separate the winners from the losers.
CHECKLIST: The time for major changes to the car is not between rounds at a national meet. You should make sure the car is basically together before trailering it (or driving it) to the track. However, don't feel like you're the first person to want to make drag strip tuning changes in the pits.
Here's a list of items we've seen in the hands of seasoned track vets at thel tracks. These items range from basic necessities to specialized tools for track side tuning:
1. Tire pump or small cylinder of compressed air
2. Tire pressure gauge (An accurate low pressure gauge)
3. New set of spark plugs. Another set one heat range colder (optional)
4. Plug wrench and socket
5. Extra quart of oil and tranny fluid
6. Distributor wrench
7. Spare point set, condenser, point file, ballast resistor & ECU if electronic ignition
8. Timing light
9. Basic tool kit
10. Thickness gauge
11. Jumper cables
12. Rags, towels, and fender covers
13. White shoe polish
14. Floor jack (or bottle jack) and jack stands
15. Duct tape & nylon ties
16. Jets and gaskets
17. Most important of all, take a notebook and use it to record your runs, jetting changes, timing changes, tire pressures, outside air temp and weather (is it cloudy or bone dry?), spark plug heat range and readings, and anything else that might make a difference the next time you show up at this track.
My friend brought a truck with a bin to carry this stuff plus he ran his truck which is a twin turbo 98 dodge diesel that ran a freekn 12.8! well basically like I said in the beginning I just wanted to let you know some things so you don’t look like an *** out there like I did lmao!
My best run was a 20.45@66.62MPH!! Leaning TOWER of POWER! Beast!
09-02-2011, 05:44 PM
#3
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Good for you Dart! Thanks for letting folks know what to expect. A track is an intimidating place for the new guy. Thank you for taking the time to put that together for us. Myself, I have only run the track on my Harley, never in a car!
Last edited by scotts74birds; 09-02-2011 at 05:47 PM.
09-02-2011, 06:09 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Thanks Dude! yeah it was alot to take in! but i can only emagine what you would have to go through to take a bike out there w/ the track *****! lol
09-02-2011, 06:15 PM
#5
Been to Carlsbad Raceway, LACR, Terminal Island, Pomona Raceway- Parker Ave. Fontana Raceway long time ago Irwindale Raceway wed nights..
Safety inspections are fairly straight forward, just depends on your times as to what is required
Safety inspections are fairly straight forward, just depends on your times as to what is required
09-02-2011, 06:31 PM
#6
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
National Trails in Mid-ohio was pretty strict! but non the less very proffesionally ran and monitored, i felt like if i motioned for help that i would be swarmed at any min! lol
I've been to Barona in san D, and a strip in houston and the Texas Mile and a few other places but never raced on the track
09-02-2011, 06:45 PM
#7
Mopar Lover
Dart -
Been a long time since I've been to a track as a competitor, Nice to know some things haven't changed. Great write up, thanks!
Some of us used to drop our exhausts at the track and run open headers. Ramps or jack stands come in handy too. Still have to reconnect for the trip home.
Archer
Been a long time since I've been to a track as a competitor, Nice to know some things haven't changed. Great write up, thanks!
Some of us used to drop our exhausts at the track and run open headers. Ramps or jack stands come in handy too. Still have to reconnect for the trip home.
Archer
09-02-2011, 07:44 PM
#8
The time doesn't matter at the beginning, you will want to go faster in time. It's a drug, at some point you just can't get enough. Over time you will need more and more just to get the same rush.
A favorite saying of mine about racing: It's just like sex, you don't have to be good at it to have a GREAT time!
A favorite saying of mine about racing: It's just like sex, you don't have to be good at it to have a GREAT time!
09-02-2011, 08:41 PM
#9
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Dart -
Been a long time since I've been to a track as a competitor, Nice to know some things haven't changed. Great write up, thanks!
Some of us used to drop our exhausts at the track and run open headers. Ramps or jack stands come in handy too. Still have to reconnect for the trip home.
Archer
Been a long time since I've been to a track as a competitor, Nice to know some things haven't changed. Great write up, thanks!
Some of us used to drop our exhausts at the track and run open headers. Ramps or jack stands come in handy too. Still have to reconnect for the trip home.
Archer
I can only Imagine droppin the exhaust on the Dart and flying down the track...they would prolly ban me lol
09-02-2011, 08:50 PM
#10
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
The time doesn't matter at the beginning, you will want to go faster in time. It's a drug, at some point you just can't get enough. Over time you will need more and more just to get the same rush.
A favorite saying of mine about racing: It's just like sex, you don't have to be good at it to have a GREAT time!
A favorite saying of mine about racing: It's just like sex, you don't have to be good at it to have a GREAT time!
09-03-2011, 08:38 PM
#11
Mopar Fanatic
Nice writeup Dart. It's been 30yrs since I raced anything on the track, but things seem to be the same. So, tell us what dumb things that you actually did your first time out. Mine was not really knowing where to stage. Others can also give us their senior or dumb moments when going out for the first time. Don't be shy, we will laugh with you not at you..lol
09-04-2011, 05:02 AM
#12
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Nice writeup Dart. It's been 30yrs since I raced anything on the track, but things seem to be the same. So, tell us what dumb things that you actually did your first time out. Mine was not really knowing where to stage. Others can also give us their senior or dumb moments when going out for the first time. Don't be shy, we will laugh with you not at you..lol
09-04-2011, 02:28 PM
#13
Mopar Fanatic
I don't think you can ask too many questions. Just remember, even the pros had to start somewhere. If you ask someone and they seem anoyed, ask someone else till you get someone that is willing to help. Most racers are more than willing to help a newbie unless they are afraid you will outrun them.
09-04-2011, 03:13 PM
#14
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
I don't think you can ask too many questions. Just remember, even the pros had to start somewhere. If you ask someone and they seem anoyed, ask someone else till you get someone that is willing to help. Most racers are more than willing to help a newbie unless they are afraid you will outrun them.
09-04-2011, 06:19 PM
#15
Mopar Lover
My son and I went to the local track and a guy had a beat up Dodge pick-up doing 16.5 seconds, and everybody groaned when he came up. By the end of the day he had won his bracket and made it to the shoot-out. In the semi-final he drew one of the fastest Camaros there. The Camaro didn't leave until the Dodge was past half track. By this time of the day the truck had become a favorite and everyone was on their feet cheering him on. Even though he lost, it was freakin' great.
09-04-2011, 07:33 PM
#16
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
My son and I went to the local track and a guy had a beat up Dodge pick-up doing 16.5 seconds, and everybody groaned when he came up. By the end of the day he had won his bracket and made it to the shoot-out. In the semi-final he drew one of the fastest Camaros there. The Camaro didn't leave until the Dodge was past half track. By this time of the day the truck had become a favorite and everyone was on their feet cheering him on. Even though he lost, it was freakin' great.
09-08-2011, 05:41 PM
#17
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Coulda been worse.....At least you weren't the "new-guy" AND oiled the track! My friend 20 years ago still hears about that one!
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