Candy green 73

Hello wonder if someone could tell me skittle about this car , I've tested the charging system , the battery stays at 12.5 and the alt about the same I thought it should be more , I've put new volt reg and alt , and still the same is that what it should be at for voltage or do I have a bigger issue

DDodger

Mopar systems are actually very easy to troubleshoot. I think of them in several "major" areas

1...Hardware......VR, alternator, which you've already changed. However, "new" does not mean "functional," eitiher

2...The field circuit. This is the supply from the ignition switch to the VR, and from the VR to the alternator field

3...The output circuit. This is the output going to the battery, from the alternator stud, through the firewall (bulkhead) connector, through the ammeter, back out through the bulkhead connector, and to the battery

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WHAT YOU NEED to work on these cars electrically.

A spark checker, available at any parts store, for troubleshooting spark / ignition, of course not related here

Some alligator "clip" leads, used to be able to buy at radio shack, ?? anymore

A multimeter

A 12V test lamp

A factory service manual. You can download them for free over at MyMopar

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Some simple tests. First. Let's see if the alternator can charge at all. Disconnect the (green) field wire, and hook an alligator clip lead to that alternator terminal. Run this over to the large stud on the starter relay. This hooks the alternator field directly to battery and should cause it to charge "full tilt."

Start and run the engine, and observe the ammeter, and slowly bring up RPM. It should start to show a charge.

If not, clip your voltmeter from the big alternator output stud to ground, and bring up engine RPM. If the voltage remains low, below 14V it is NOT charging, and you have a defective alternator

If the voltage climbs much much more above 14, perhaps 18, move your voltmeter over to the battery or to the starter relay large stud. Again bring up RPM. If this voltage is low, much below the 18 you got earlier, then you have a BREAK in the charging wire from the alternator in the path to the battery.

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Now IF the above test resulted in a "charge" indication at the ammeter, so far so good. Hook the green wire back up at the alternator. Now check that the VR is grounded. FOR CERTAIN. Clean around the bolts, and the VR flange. Use star lock washers.

If this is OK, unhook the two VR wires, and hook them together. This, essentially, is the same test as above. You are supplying power from the ignition switch direct to the (green) field. Again, bringing up RPM should result in charge

if it does, the VR is defective OR IS NOT GROUNDED

If this test does NOT charge, check for igntion power (12V) at the blue wire. If you have that the green wire is broken. It only goes one place........From the VR -to--the alternator field.

Rooty

Ideally you would like to have 13.2 volts going to the battery at idle with most accessories on - 14.2 otherwise. However, most 60 to 80 amp alternators struggle to keep up to the demands. Does "dull headlights, bouncing volt gauges when the signals or brake lights are applied and drops in idle speed" come to mind. Unless your car is a concours trailer queen then perhaps it's time to upgrade the charging system to a newer, internally regulated alternator. I had a Denso 60 amp I bought off a local jobber but chalked it up to junk the first time I drove at night. I now run a Ford 3G 130 amp which is a direct fit. It was off a 1999 Taurus V6 and cost $50. It was like new but I opted to spend another $23 for a new internal regulator and brushes anyway. I should have done this mod in the first place and saved the $160 I spent for the Denso. You can buy an exact reworked alternator like the one you have but an outboard VR is not required and, you can buy a dummy VR box that looks exactly like an OE except it's "gutless" and for appearances only. No one will ever know the difference as the wires go to and from the box but merely join under the cover. Using a VOM meter take your battery voltage with the engine off then again with the engine running. If the readings are the same you obviously have no available overhead amperage for the high draw accessories and will be sucking amps directly from the battery to keep up. OK if you only drive in daylight in the middle of summer but if you plan on adding any upgrades to the already taxed electrical system you'll know what to do.

TVLynn

Lots of posts.. Need to rewire the alt eliminating the bulkhead connector..