318 TIMING QUESTION
#1
318 TIMING QUESTION
So I have this 318LA with mild upgrades cam higher compression pistons, intake carb, ignition. I had the timing set at 17 DEG Before and it ran well. I bumped it up to 21 just messing around and it seems to run a lot better. I don't hear any detonation even under heavy acceleration and it seems to purr like a kitten.
question - does that seem like a lot of advance for a relatively mild 318?
the procedure I am using is
1000 rpm vacuume advance pulled and plugged, plugged on carb, and set to 21 deg before.
or do you think my balancer might have slipped one way a little and i am really not timed to what i have it set at?
Thanks all
Luke
1965 Plymouth Belvedere II
question - does that seem like a lot of advance for a relatively mild 318?
the procedure I am using is
1000 rpm vacuume advance pulled and plugged, plugged on carb, and set to 21 deg before.
or do you think my balancer might have slipped one way a little and i am really not timed to what i have it set at?
Thanks all
Luke
1965 Plymouth Belvedere II
#2
If the distributor has any sort of "fast" advance curve, setting the initial timing at 1000 RPM might already be causing the mechanical adviance to move, therefore your timing setting is not what you suppose.
I would use a piston stop to determine "IF" the timing marks are actually correct, and either degree the wheel or buy so called "timing tape" so you can check TOTAL advance. With no vacuum, somewhere 32-38* is probably what you are looking for.
I would use a piston stop to determine "IF" the timing marks are actually correct, and either degree the wheel or buy so called "timing tape" so you can check TOTAL advance. With no vacuum, somewhere 32-38* is probably what you are looking for.
#4
You'll have to answer that yourself. Use your timing light, and force the idle down until you are satisfied that the curve is "at the bottom." If the dist has light springs, or possibly even one broken spring, hard to say. Some of the guys I used to hang with, and I've done it myself, used to drag race with NO springs. We were using dual point distributors back then, and the friction of the points would keep the weights "in" for starting. The advance would literally be "all in" all the time. I've been told that this is not a good method, that it can cause "spark scatter" under certain conditions. Evidently the weights can sort of bounce around.
#6
You should really start timing at idle not 1000 rpm, You are reading advance into it, but probably not full advance. Total advance will depend on what you motor likes. They are all a little different. More so once modified. As long as you are not getting detonation you are good.
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a.johansson84
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05-27-2012 03:30 AM