79 omni:Where is the ignition control module located?
I have a bare bones stock 79 omni that won't start and was running fine before. It has plenty of gas and shoots it into the carb when the pedal is pushed. I was told to get a new ignition control module by a mechanic friend of mine. I got one easily http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pro...pe=194&PTSet=A but can't seem to find it under the hood to replace it. Where the heck is it? I thought I knew where it was but turns out that's the voltage regulator. Thanks in advance.
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does that have a lean burn ignition box on it near/in the right fender? it's about the size of a book and might have a vacuum advance unit on it.
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When you say the right fender, do you mean driver or passenger side? It's night here now and about 20 degrees and I don't want to look until I have daylight again.
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when you're sitting in the car and looking up front ........ the right side.
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I believe I found what you were talking about. Next to the battery mounted against the fender is a long black box with a vacuum advance on it and about eight or ten wires coming off an electrical connection. This is on the driver side (right side if looking from front of car) and is in line with the air intake. I've started looking up lean burn ignition computers and it doesn't look good. What's my best course of action is this is the fault?
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...mputer+-+Remfd |
start by checking the connections.
have you checked for spark while the engine is cranking? since it is so cold, have you checked to see if the choke is working? it has a carb. right? can you look into the valve cover to see if the valves are turning to verify that the timing belt is ok? |
Originally Posted by richinny
(Post 8167)
start by checking the connections.
have you checked for spark while the engine is cranking? since it is so cold, have you checked to see if the choke is working? it has a carb. right? can you look into the valve cover to see if the valves are turning to verify that the timing belt is ok? |
I don't remember a whole lot about the car. check for spark from the coil. the caps were prone to failures. if you have spark from the coil, your problem is in the cap or rotor or the distributor not turning. i'm not sure what turns the distributor on that engine.
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Originally Posted by richinny
(Post 8190)
I don't remember a whole lot about the car. check for spark from the coil. the caps were prone to failures. if you have spark from the coil, your problem is in the cap or rotor or the distributor not turning. i'm not sure what turns the distributor on that engine.
Thanks for your help. I had no idea this car had an lean burn ignition system. I'd have probably thought twice about buying it if I had. Hopefully the new part straightens it out. |
Originally Posted by stazja01
(Post 8191)
I do have 12 volts coming out of the coil (which I have replaced just to be safe).
btw, mopars are notorious for not giving spark if the battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts. if it ever cranks slow due to a weak battery, keep that in mind. |
Originally Posted by richinny
(Post 8210)
you should still take the wire from the coil. out of the cap to check for spark. i know some had clips that made this difficult. it was to keep the wires from falling off. if you get spark from the coil, you'll know if you're getting ignition.
btw, mopars are notorious for not giving spark if the battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts. if it ever cranks slow due to a weak battery, keep that in mind. 1: I noticed that the air intake hose from the lean burn box to the air cleaner is disintegrating. Would it be possible that if it wasn't drawing enough air through the lean burn box that it wouldn't start? 2: Is the wire from the coil to the distributor supposed to have resistance? I did a continuity check and showed some resistance instead of a straight current. The one end of the wire is gold and the other is silver. Also, the rubber boot on this wire at the coil end had a crack in it which I wrapped electrical tape around several times. Any problems with that either? |
the air hose is to keep the box cool. it has nothing to do with fuel mixture.
yes, there should be resistance in the ignition wires, i forget how many ohms per foot it should be. i can't help you with the gold/silver thing. tape will do nothing to repair ignition wires. i think you found your starting problem. change those ignition wires. |
Originally Posted by richinny
(Post 8427)
the air hose is to keep the box cool. it has nothing to do with fuel mixture.
yes, there should be resistance in the ignition wires, i forget how many ohms per foot it should be. i can't help you with the gold/silver thing. tape will do nothing to repair ignition wires. i think you found your starting problem. change those ignition wires. I've been testing things out now that I have my new computer and I'm still befuddled. I've got spark at the plugs (sat one on the engine and cranked it) but still not even a stumble like it's going to start. I'm recharging the battery as it had gotten somewhat low but I'm just not sure what's going on here. Pressing the gas puts fuel in the carb. I've got spark at my plugs. The car was running fine when I parked it so something like the timing belt slipping at the exact moment I stopped the car seems very unlikely. The only issue I had with the car prior to this was a bit of dieseling when I shut it down from time to time. |
Well, she started. I recharged the battery and that seemed to do it. All the cranking and cranking seems to have diminished it enough that it wouldn't start the car. She's running a bit rough but considering I've replaced a few distributor components I'm not real surprised. I'm changing the spark plugs and wires and the distributor cap in the next couple days and then I'll put a timing light on it. I'm not sure what the actual problem was as I replaced quite a few components but my money is on the computer.
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nice to hear that it is running. new wires might get rid of some of the roughness.
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Now I've got an interesting problem... When cold, I have to unhook the fuel line and crank it then hook it back up and it's fine. When the car warms up it starts right up but when it's cold I have to do this.
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does that repair book tell you how to get fault codes out of the computer?
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I don't have it right in front of me but I don't think so. Also, what controls when the cooling fan comes on? It runs when I directly hook up 12 volts to it but I've never seen it move on its own. This includes long periods of idling. I may just wire it into a wire that's hot when the ignition is on if it isn't going to screw anything up.
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there is a fan sensor (might be on the radiator). if you have ac, it should come on with the compressor. given how cold you say it is, it may not need to come on.
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Originally Posted by richinny
(Post 8597)
there is a fan sensor (might be on the radiator). if you have ac, it should come on with the compressor. given how cold you say it is, it may not need to come on.
I'm starting to wonder if maybe something is wrong in the carb. It did sit for three years and I've had similar problems with holley four barrels that have sat for long periods after steady use (shrinking gaskets, etc.) where it would start fine and then act like it wanted to stall when brought to a stop after reaching normal operating temp. |
79 Omni has a 1.7 VW motor
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