hello Im new here help
 

i need some info the 73 duster i have has a 318 i know i can get 350 hp out of it but will the auto trans hould it & the rear end needs to be changed to 8.75 but it needs suport (how) i wont to run 12.5 on the rear so ill have to tub the rear body

what is the trans? a 904 or a 727? no doubt in my mind that a 727 will hold 350 hp. 904 probly getting close as a stock tranny. i guess im not understanding you question about the rear end? needs suport? should be a easy swap....to run 12's you really shouldnt need to tub the body. todays radials do wonders. but with 350 hp at the fly wheel is more around 13 seconds

Good luck.

Just put a big block in it, or go with a 340/360.. Theres no point in building a 318 IMO. And run a 727, not a 904.

im sorry whats wrong with a 318? same stroke as a 340 smaller bore yeah. by 130 thou wich is maybe 40 horsepower. and the 318 has a forged crank 360,s dont. AAQA blocks can be bored .60 over wich will give you roughly 330 ci....on the LA 318...
plz dont think im being a dick:D

Whats the point?

If you're going to be spending money, spend it on something more to begin with. Yes, 318s can be built, but it all takes time and money, MOSTLY MONEY.

I know a guy who runs 11s on a 318 with manifolds. But he has a turbo, and he's spent alot of time and MONEY on it. He has more money into his motor/turbo then i have in my entire drivetrain

true big blocks can get you the hp cheaper. but a well thought out 318 can suprise you.. i built a 318 that could keep up with 440's (stock or close)without a lot of coin.

im sorry i had go for few as far as the tranny i dont know if it is 727 or 904 im asking do i neen a 727 or 904 on the rear end i was thanking i would have to change it to 8.75 from the stock rear end & have to suport the sub frame on the tires i wonted to run 12.5 wide so i thank i would have tub the boudy

well to run 12.5 inch tire you would need to tub it but theres no need to run that wide of tire, i would go 727 it is a stronger trans, its a bigger (outside) trans also than a 904. if you search the forum someone posted pics up with the 904 and 727 next to each other. i cannot remember who.....(no disrespect to the poster)...the sub frame refers to the front end, k frame.

Got to agree with ya on the underdog 318 Bob people give them away - 318 0.30+ = 323 cid, good flat top pistons, 360 smog heads machined to 60cc chambers, 2.02 intake valve 1.60 exhaust, TTI Headers, RPM Air Gap intake, 800 cfm Thermoquad and a mild 231 / 237 duration .525 lift 110 deg. LSA - This dynoed at over 400 hp @ 6500 rpm pump gas, bigger cam would just bring on more power - one note 73 and up stock rods are the ones to get being as they are the same used in all 318 - 340 - 360 motors ...... or just build what ever you fancy but nothing wrong with the mighty 318 LA :D

Wanna but a HEMI and make things really confusing ? :eek:

I can see everyone's point here...... minus Scamp's with the HEMI. They are SO over rated and underpowered :p (J/K)

Since you want 350HP (whether it is at the crank or at the wheel), I'm more than confident that you can do it with a 318. While a 340 or 360 would be the better route to go, your 318 is in good running order with no problems. If you go out and buy a motor, you do not know how long it has been sitting, what is wrong with it if anything, and I doubt that you would be able to have driven it long enough to hear what it sounds like from full cold to fully warmed up cruising around town, down the highway and make a few passes at the local drag strip before buying it.

I would build your 318.

As far as going with a big block for the power you are looking for, yes you can blue print, balance and rebuild a 383, 400, 413, or 440 to stock specs (maybe a little larger cam and a 4 barrel carb) and get those numbers you want, but you'll need to change out other items through the car as well.

I would build your 318.

With what is out there for aftermarket support for the small block LA Mopar motors, you should have no isses getting to 350HP..... just make sure that you build your motor with all the components working together and you get a good amount of torque out of it as well.

As far as a rear axle goes, I'm sure that you probably have the 8.25 rear axle. If you want you can run that or find yourself a 9.25 rear axle. With them set up properly, they should be able to handle that kind of power no problem. The 8 3/4 would be a bit over kill that that power.

blue 68 gts posted pics of how to tell a 727 from a 904 transmission. While you can build both transmissions, the 727 has a far larger aftermarket support.

thanks i will look for the thread on the tranny as for the tires how wide can i go with out tubs and how wide do i need

Maybe around 8 inches wide? I'm not really sure. That is something that you should measure out when you get the car home.

[quote=78D200;44872]I can see everyone's point here...... minus Scamp's with the HEMI. They are SO over rated and underpowered :p (J/K)

Your oh so right on that one they told me it was 610 hp and it turns out to be 675 the bunch of liars lol .....

the wedge is so much better to work on :)

theres nothing wrong with a 318 those motors can deff be built to run and actully what alot of people dont know, is a 904 can be built just the same as a 727 its cost a bit more to build but its a lighter rearend then a 727 wich makes the trans better for drag racing so its reall all up to your wallet

Apparently no one actually read my post and just wrote it off as I'm an idiot.

Anyone knows a 318 can be built. Anyone knows a 904 CAN be built. But WHY? Start with something more and bigger if you want to go fast.

And BUILD A 727, NOT A 904. You'll save yourself money and headaches. Yes, a 904 is lighter, but if you want to run fast with a 904, you're going to rebuild it 2x a year. A 727 every 1-2 years, IF THAT.

build the the 904 right the FIRST time and it will hold up most of the dragracers now adays are switching to well built 904s

[quote=blue 68 gts;44948]Apparently no one actually read my post and just wrote it off as I'm an idiot.

i dont think anyone thinks you an idiot. i dont.. we just gave our opinion.. i agree about the 904 with you.. i wouldnt mess with one.

Yes, I've seen plenty of 904s in race cars. Talk to one of them, ask them how many times a year they have to pull them out, tear them down, inspect / replace parts.

Im not trying to bilud a drag car im just wont a good cruiser with a bite.
Here is my planes for the moter.
(2200 rpm to 5200 rpm, max. HP @ 6200 rpm)
Strong upper rpm performance
Multi-angle valve grind.
318 2Bbl & FI 22100 to 22900 649 to 785 cfm Max. 350 HP
318 4Bbl 22000 to 22800 649 to 785 cfm Max. 350 HP
Compression: Gasoline 9.5:1 to 11.0:1
Exhaust: Dual exhaust with headers
Cam 243/243 .508/.508 298/298 108
Gear Ratio: 3.5:1 to 4.5:1
Idle: 1000 rpm or less, has a lope
Ignition: electronic ignition

Nick - By no means does anyone think your an idiot, you've got some really helpfully and good advise. I am with you about the 904 tho.

It sound to me though that jeremy would be fine working with what he has though for what he wants to do. Yes it would be more bang for the buck to do a BB swap but for what he wants as a cruiser, I think the 318 will be more than enough.

Can anyone tell me what the factory stall is on a 904 and 727?

cnat tell you for sure.. but somewhere around 1000-1200

With this were would u thank I would the stall to be for a street car I was thinking about 1800 rpm

(2200 rpm to 5200 rpm, max. HP @ 6200 rpm)
Strong upper rpm performance
Multi-angle valve grind.
318 2Bbl & FI 22100 to 22900 649 to 785 cfm Max. 350 HP
318 4Bbl 22000 to 22800 649 to 785 cfm Max. 350 HP
Compression: Gasoline 9.5:1 to 11.0:1
Exhaust: Dual exhaust with headers
Cam 243/243 .508/.508 298/298 108
Gear Ratio: 3.5:1 to 4.5:1
Idle: 1000 rpm or less, has a lope
Ignition: electronic ignition

with that cam i think a higher stall would be needed. by specs id say that cam comes in at about 2400...higher compression = higher stall..2500 or around 2600 for converter. but im no converter expert by any means too many variables ...weight of car rear gears. cam, carb, compression, even timing can effect a converter. converters are the rocket science of cars.. my suggestion is build the engine how you want it with the gears you want. take all that info a talk to a manufactuer..they will be more than happy to get you the closes converter for you. picking the wrong converter can even cost you rear wheel horsepower.

Not to mention get you in the wrong RPM range and/or terrible performance.