Manual Brake Conversion
#1
Manual Brake Conversion
Hello currently I have power assisted drum brakes all around on my 69 charger. I have no vacumn from the engine due to the cam. I have to run a vacumn pump for the brakes. Are there any vendors that make a convesion kit to manual for for my application? Any sugestions?
#4
I believe you would just need a new master cylinder (manual) and a new pushrod and possibly a different porportioning valve? to change over to manual. I like manual brakes with disc fronts I get good stopping power you just need to push a little harder.
#5
Thanks. I called MP Brakes and they said I could used my same master cyclinder. They wanted me to take off the booster and put on a new stiffening plate and a new adjustable pushrod. I do agree that disc on the front drums on the rear would be the right decision for me.
#6
#8
I wasnt for sure on changing the master cylinder i know that there are different bore master cylinders. I'm all for changing over to manual brakes. My Charger with power brakes has the same problem after you brake to come to a stop and idle forward in stop and go situations you really have to stand on that brake pedal it seems like it takes way more pressure to apply the brakes than manual do. The switch cleans up the eng. compartment and is just my opinion
#9
MP Brakes has a kit AD1303K that has a stiffening plate an adjustable push rod and a new master cyclinder. The description says that this kit doesn't convert a power brake car to a manual car. The sales person said to use this stiffening plate $30 and the adjustable pushrod $30, and my same master cylinder to get manual brakes. It sounds contradictory to the kits description. I need to check with him again. It would be nice to get rid of the pump. It rattles the dash when it is on. 60 dollars would be a good price for this conversion. Also he said I could used the same distribution block thats there. Also in the future I want to go to disks on the front manual of course. The salesman said he recomends this combo to people who put in bigger engines who dont have room for the booster as well.
#10
What would be better manual or power brakes? I was thinking about switching my manual brakes to power. But if it is going to cause problems think I will just stick to manual.
But I would have to agree with Ryan you just need a new manual master cylinder.
But I would have to agree with Ryan you just need a new manual master cylinder.
#11
If you stay with the drums then you can leave all the lines and the distribution block alone. What you need to do is get the push rod and plate from another b-body. (classified or e-gag). Remove the booster and you are good to go. $60 seems unlikely to me but who knows what a good search will turn up. Maybe twice that. You will have to look around. You should not need any type of kit as these cars came this way. Just need the right parts. I would think there would be alot of foks doing the oposite so parts left over should be easy to find. I have manual brakes for a c body but am not sure if they are the same. The master should work but, the push rod is probably different. Manual will work as well or in your case better. The big difference would be a disc conversion. They also can be manual, just what a monster cammed motor with little vacuum needs.Again the kits are a rip and probably the parts are not made here. Factory parts are available over the counter for all of these. Try Rock Auto if your counter man does not know how to find this stuff.
Last edited by bboogieart; 03-22-2011 at 03:58 PM.
#12
Thanks. If I can find a manual brake car that would be ideal. Then I would just transfer the parts. These parts would not need to be reconditioned, just maybe some paint. A heads up I just recieved the MPBrakes catalogue and there is a power to manual conversion kit. MC1303K, for 219.95.
#13
I had a 67 Coronet disk/drum combo with manual brakes. Never had any problems, pedal feel was very good. Dart spindles, Challenger calapers, Volare disk rotors Great up grade if it is a driver. I don't remember what it was exactly, too many years ago I had a B body, another 67 Coronet back in the early 70's and I put some 11" front drum brakes on it from a 60's Chrysler. Any
A,B,C, body should have the plate
A,B,C, body should have the plate
Last edited by TVLynn; 04-08-2011 at 02:53 AM.
#14
Any
A,B,C, body should have the plate
If this is so, is the push rod the same? I have the plate and push rod for $10.00. You pay the post man. They are from a 68 plymouth fury manul drum brakes.
I am sure that with the fury the pedal is also needed. Not sure of the b-body. The only one I have (68 Coronete 500) is a power drum brake set-up.
A,B,C, body should have the plate
If this is so, is the push rod the same? I have the plate and push rod for $10.00. You pay the post man. They are from a 68 plymouth fury manul drum brakes.
I am sure that with the fury the pedal is also needed. Not sure of the b-body. The only one I have (68 Coronete 500) is a power drum brake set-up.
#15
peddle is the same only the push rod is different because of the power booster. Any manual brake push rod should work, a,b probably c body There is a grommet on the end of the push rod that is important, keeps the rod from falling out. When done the pedal will set higher as I remember, so readjust the brake light switch..
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