78D200

New month so here we have a new topic..... suspension.

chlngr1970

Two questions I have about suspension.

First, I haven't found a buyer for my Dart yet, so I am thinking of building it into a rally car. What would be a good setup for a road course.

Second, what has peoples experiences with tubular control arms been? I am considering them for my Duster.

Thanks.

j

Crazy4Carz.Com

Don't waste your money on the tubular control arms. They are OK but very evpensive and dont offer enough improvement for the dollar.

We raced "One lap of America" finishing third in class and the set-up that we used was awesome. (1970 Dart)

Torsion bars one size bigger than the big block bars, Superstock springs out back (here is the trick! flip your front spring hangers upside down and swap from side to side) this will lower the rear of the car back down from the springs. Adco front sway bar (we used the biggest one) 16 inch wheels with a short sidewall. Alignment: Almost zero toe, and pretty severe camber. Adjust the caster as much as possible keeping it even on both sides. (I believe they make cam bolts to set this further than stock)Also, I would suggest a manual steering box with a quicker ratio than stock. (we used Firm feel's box)

There is a book "Chrysler Performance upgrades" by "Frank Adkins" this book is a must have. Frank is the one that built the "One lap Dart" with me, and he has been a contributing writer for most of the Mopar Magazines. The Dart is a subject of many of the builds in that book.

This will make a Dart that will out handle a Viper (I know I have had both) but you can forget any drag racing after these mods. The suspension will be stiff enough for any road racing, autocrossing, Rallying, or cruising any back roads, but you will not be able to get weight transfer for drag racing.

chlngr1970

This is the information I have been looking for for when I build a road car. Thanks a WHOLE bunch I would love to hear more about the one lap car. I think that is the direction I wanted to go with the Dart to begin with.

more later...

vernonapitt

The Technical support Tubular Control Arms are mentioned below.To a Suspension mode.
(1) Built in 6 degree of positive caster straight line stability.
(2) Caster improves cornering ability.
(3) Stronger and lighter than stock control arms.
(4) Upper arms reduce factory bump steer.
(5) stock Ball Joints are used for ease of replacement.

Chryco Psycho

You can run offset bushings in the stock arms to get more adjustment , , I too prefer stock arms , I have heard of tubular cracking close to the welds , stock are stamper from one piece of metal , tubular does offer more adjustment though . Take a look at Hotchkiss , they have hollow sway bars front & rear , reduced weigth with increased stiffness ,also look atthe Hotchkiss upper control arms , they improve the steering angles by leveling the upper control arm .
Using a flat rear leaf spring is best for side delflection , Espo can make springs in the spring rate you need with flat arc

Gorts 5th

on the M BODIES HOW MUCH CASTER IS AVAILABLE looking to set up my 5th ave with new front end parts and want a more performance alignment; more caster looking to push through a turn not plow

bremereric

The alterkation unit from RMS is the way to go for front end suspension and rack and pinion power or manual steering. Front and rear sway bars and also look a what suspension tricks Firm Fell sells.

http://www.reillymotorsports.com/

http://www.firmfeel.com/

Gorts 5th

just got my upper control arm bushings replaced
and i set the alignment
rebuilt the bushings on the 1 1/8 sway bar
lowered the rear end and she pulls down the front end when i throttle her through the corners i dont see any visible sign of side wall scuff
when i first test drove her i almost turned it into the ditch i did not expect that kind of "push" from the front end
boy what a difference i still have the 5th ave ride with that cornering improvement
after the drive line swap i plan on installing the rear bar also thinking of a panard bar i can see a little side to side movement in the leaf springs

Allens366

Need to know what body style rear ends will bolt up under a 1985 Plymouth Gran Fury. Currently has a 7 1/4. Want to go to 8 1/4 or would really like to go with 8 3/4. It's an M-body car. I currently have 8 3/4 rears from an A-Body and a B-Body. Also a pickup rear end but I know that won't work. Can't find any Aspen or Volare's (F-Body) with 8 1/4 rears in my area. Would like to know if the A or B Bodies 8 3/4's will work. I just hope it will be a basic bolt up. I'm planning on using the springs that are on the car now. Thanks.