318 Runnin Rough...
10-09-2014, 01:59 PM
#1
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318 Runnin Rough...
74 charger 5.2 318 2bbl w/ 360 manifold.
I just recently had the Heads Rebuilt, got everything back together and yet it runs rough. I put it at TDC rotor button points down the middle. When I hold the choke closed it idles high and poorly when opened. Any ideas?
I just recently had the Heads Rebuilt, got everything back together and yet it runs rough. I put it at TDC rotor button points down the middle. When I hold the choke closed it idles high and poorly when opened. Any ideas?
10-09-2014, 02:53 PM
#2
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Sounds lean, back out your idle mixture screws 1/4 turn each until it smooths out. Should have your timing set with a light too. Can't do one and not the other.
10-09-2014, 03:11 PM
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I tried turning the mix screws all in and out but didn't phase the rough running. Got it timed at 0, a little btdc or after. & still Runs rough.
Last edited by Robert Weaver; 10-09-2014 at 03:22 PM.
10-10-2014, 01:10 PM
#8
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OK....If it was on there before and ran, you should be good to go....
And put about 12-16* of timing in it... That will make it much happier...
And put about 12-16* of timing in it... That will make it much happier...
Last edited by RacerHog; 10-10-2014 at 01:13 PM.
10-10-2014, 02:59 PM
#11
10-10-2014, 04:10 PM
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Would I need a micro tool to measure the intake ports?
My 1974 Charger SE Baby Blue White Top
VIN # = WP29K4A170230
Block Cast # Driver Side = 2532630 = (318)?
Head #'s = 2843675 = (318)?
Manifold # = 3698437 ?
My 1974 Charger SE Baby Blue White Top
VIN # = WP29K4A170230
Block Cast # Driver Side = 2532630 = (318)?
Head #'s = 2843675 = (318)?
Manifold # = 3698437 ?
10-11-2014, 07:29 AM
#18
Mopar Lover
The point of my post are that you cannot always assume, You have to check!
AS you have found, there are many avenues/combinations that are fitting.
Your listed manifold says it a 360-4 intake. you have found thats not to be so true. Yours is the 360-2 version if I understand you correctly.
As for the head port to intake manifold match. You needed to check that prier to assembly... But without the knowing, you can only assume you have installed the proper gasket set. I have just pointed out what I believe is the au-evious problem with all other operating systems being in good working order.
The only way to really know.. Is to open it and take a look... Or you just have to run on the assumption that it's put together rite.
as for the first part of the question... Yes... You would have to have a adapter to install a 2 barr. carb on a 4 barr. manifold... I think that goes without saying...But I think you already new that answer...
AS you have found, there are many avenues/combinations that are fitting.
Your listed manifold says it a 360-4 intake. you have found thats not to be so true. Yours is the 360-2 version if I understand you correctly.
As for the head port to intake manifold match. You needed to check that prier to assembly... But without the knowing, you can only assume you have installed the proper gasket set. I have just pointed out what I believe is the au-evious problem with all other operating systems being in good working order.
The only way to really know.. Is to open it and take a look... Or you just have to run on the assumption that it's put together rite.
as for the first part of the question... Yes... You would have to have a adapter to install a 2 barr. carb on a 4 barr. manifold... I think that goes without saying...But I think you already new that answer...
Last edited by RacerHog; 10-11-2014 at 07:32 AM.
10-11-2014, 07:41 AM
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I did. Sorry for the questions. I didnt think that they made a 360-2 intake, at least ot doesnt show up on the casting # sites. I bet I've got a manifold leak somewhere or om usin the wrong gaskets.
10-11-2014, 09:04 AM
#20
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Nothing to be sorry for Robert..Your just trying to get your problem fixed .. I am sorry if my words came across wrong or a little harsh... That's not my intention..
Ok... So lets figure the intake gasket is the correct one and no other problems there....
Have you taken a vacuum reading with a gauge? And did you try the 12-16* BTDC timing? Yet?
Also... Where you able to fix your choke problem?
.. I am sorry if my words came across wrong or a little harsh... That's not my intention..Ok... So lets figure the intake gasket is the correct one and no other problems there....
Have you taken a vacuum reading with a gauge? And did you try the 12-16* BTDC timing? Yet?
Also... Where you able to fix your choke problem?
Last edited by RacerHog; 10-11-2014 at 03:47 PM.
10-11-2014, 09:28 AM
#21
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Not yet, its been rainin cats & dogs here past few days. When u get manifokd gaskets, do they need to match the intake or the heads? When I looked at the carb base, its 2 holes with a point in the middle.
10-11-2014, 10:18 AM
#22
Mopar Lover
When I do them I check both side... You just never know at what point in the vehicles life one or the other has or might have been changed.
The uncovering is so slight that if you don't look for it you can easily miss it.
This can also be a problem when heads are milled or shaved too much and the intake is not cut to match... Or even if one or the other has been ported at some point.. But it is not uncommon for this area to be a problem...
Just making sure you feel positive about it NOT being the problem is the best thing..
The uncovering is so slight that if you don't look for it you can easily miss it.
This can also be a problem when heads are milled or shaved too much and the intake is not cut to match... Or even if one or the other has been ported at some point.. But it is not uncommon for this area to be a problem...
Just making sure you feel positive about it NOT being the problem is the best thing..
10-11-2014, 01:33 PM
#23
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Don't get stuck on one idea. This could be wrong timing having you turn in the idle speed screw in so far that it's past the idle mixture circuit, things we can't see or here on our computer screens.
My best advise is to do as Bob said, when it stops raining be prepared with a vacuum gauge, timing light and tach (tach not essential).
Start it up check vacuum, and timing and record. Add some advance with vacuum advance canister disconnected and plugged. If rpm goes up reduce engine speed to as low as it will go and still run, record results and report back.
Any change with results will be the quickest way for anyone to help fine tune this and get you running smoothly.
My best advise is to do as Bob said, when it stops raining be prepared with a vacuum gauge, timing light and tach (tach not essential).
Start it up check vacuum, and timing and record. Add some advance with vacuum advance canister disconnected and plugged. If rpm goes up reduce engine speed to as low as it will go and still run, record results and report back.
Any change with results will be the quickest way for anyone to help fine tune this and get you running smoothly.
10-23-2014, 02:28 PM
#28
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I've got spark again but can't keep it runnin. I've got power from the battery all the way to the coil. Set it at Tdc runs bout 1-3 secs, turn it 180 it backfires. Maybe old gas. Gonna try cleaning the carb with cleaner later.
10-23-2014, 06:27 PM
#30
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Already tried, I inched it CW & CCW all the way and still doesn't want to run. Replaced the dizzy & ballast today and got spark again. Would a weak alternator cause it to not run? It's been on there 20yrs but did run before with it.
