Bigfootedalien

LONNNNNG story here but Xing on cross referencing 360 parts : Bot a 85 Dodge 360 engine for my 86 dodge 1ton 4x4 plow Stick truck - found out when I picked it up it was a rebuild with only 500 miles on it (put a BIG smile on my face - got it home put it on the stand & found out the block # is from early 71-74 360 # 3418496 "OUTCh: I needed 75-86 360 so I took it apart to clean the block get specs etc & found out it was rebuilt with Badger B290 pistons .030 over - crank/rod journal measured 2.115 so it was a turned .010 but the crank # = 3418640 ! Researching i believe my 86 11" flywheel will bolt rite up & work on the crank end (end has the 2 1/8" flange sticking out!) 71-74 Cranks didnt have this flange they were flat I believe? Am I correct in thinking my 86 11" Flywheel will work on the 71 engine with crank # 3418640?
Question 2: any other discrepencys I might run into putting this into my 86 Stick?
THANKS Lar bigfootedalien@fast-air.net

DDodger

There is absolutely no difference in substituting any of these 360s over the years ""except""

Ma made industrial versions of 318s, do not know about 360. Some of these "industrial" engines had different crank flanges

"Generally" in Mopar engines, some cranks are not finished machined for a pilot bearing, and some are not deep enough. Generally you can use the larger "Jeep" style pilot which sits out in the converter snout recess

Again in 318, Ma made some really heavy "truck" versions usually known as a 318-3. At least some of these used "Ford style" 18mm spark plugs, but of course if the heads have been changed, you would not know this. These may have different crank flanges. I did not know?? Ma made any 360s in this and may not have.

So I don't know. Can't you "scare up" a used converter flex plate or something to see if it fits? I assume you don't have your other vehicle apart yet?

Bigfootedalien

Thanks DD: The 86 I have is a 360T (Truck) with man Stick tranny this 11" clutch flyweels 66lbs The earlier 10.5" clutch flywheels are 55lbs! (quite a difference) - The earlier cranks had a "flat end" 6 bolt rear plate the flywheel mounted to but the CRANK in this rebuit eng isnt that earlier model & has the 2.5" ring flange on the end - same size to fit my 11" flywheel! I believe itll work (that rear flange on the end must have compensated for the heavier 11" clutched flywheel which I believe started in 86 360T. ) Someone out there knows the answer ??????????? Thanks Lar

Bigfootedalien

Hows these:
(16) Clevite 213-1675 Valve Lifters - MOPAR Dodge Chrysler 360 383 440 V8 on ebay?

Bigfootedalien

Heres the pictures : Oil mods were done per older dodge Mag article : I have the link on my other pc & will put it in later!

Bigfootedalien

Drag pak: Checking the RHS bolt holes for that oil dril mod (Drag pak) none of the bolt holes go into any oil pressure gally : wont do anygoods to drill 1 of the bolts!

On that article it didnt mention the cam plate - just the 1/16" hole in the 2 trick plugs (shown done in the pictures above!) - If I leave the 2 1/16" holes Id have to drill the cam plate (in frt of trick plug holes) alot bigger so not to put rear pressure on those 2 trick plugs!

Hopw would drilling the RHS Bolt add oil to the timing system?

Bigfootedalien

UPDATE: Prob not hydraulic : What lifters are the best ? Melling/enginetech/clevite?

Drag Pak

The RHS bolt is a through bolt to the lifter valley and takes drain off oil to the chain.

Change those plugs. Fill the lifter valley holes with epoxy.

Bigfootedalien

DP: I figured it out (I was on the wrong side - rt facing the frt Ok I just ordered .24x2"x24" alum for bolting over the oblong holes & Ill order the epoxy for the lifer holes! Ill drill the top RHS oil cam plate bolt (the 1 that goes straight thu to the lifter galley) -
Question : Shall I pull that btm (thin) plate off the intake (4 studs) & clean it inside? (It looks like some buildup underneath it) .

Bigfootedalien

Crank is @ the machine shop getting the pilot bushing machined/installed! Got all new brngs / rings / new valve springs / new lifters / MTD1 camshaft / oil pump / all new frt end parts ! Got a snap on cam tool yesterday $75 - end of next week ill put it together! honed the block with 400 grit stones (came out nice - didnt need heavy hone) - I do need to fit grind rings (havent gotten that far yet).
DP: What gap shall I put in the rings? (Top? 2nd?) setup in lower or upper cylinder for gap?

Bigfootedalien

DP: Will this work ? : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Epoxy-Marine...item1c464e0b61

OR what should I use: The stuff in the link is only good to like 250-275F !

Drag Pak

I hope you ordered 0.125 (1/8") aluminum? I used Reher & Morrisons epoxy but I believe Moroso offers some as well in small quantities. May be worth a look for comparison. Wash block area thoroughly with lacquer thinner prior to any epoxy application!!!

If you remove the heat shield from the bottom of the intake manifold, reinstalling the spiral rivets is questionable, and you may wish to drill and tap the holes for bolts which should be wire locked afterwards.

File fitting rings should be measured at bottom of cylinder. Rings should be filed/drawn(holding both sides of gap firmly against fine file((if that is what you are using))) towards inner diameter as to not flake at outer edge/sealing surface.

Ring gap - rule of thumb 0.004 per 1" of bore, but best to look what manufacturer says

Bigfootedalien

I have plenty 1/8" alum plate Ill use + lutza laquer thinner (I clean alot of motorcycle eng parts & its my drug of choice if U really want the epoxy stuff to stick after Laquer cleaning spray area with starter fluid & blow it off with 100psi air!

Intake Heat shield will be done / bolted/wired back on.

Explain the top oiling after the Alum plate/lifter side holes are epoxied: All the oil up there now comes from the lifters/lifter holes/dwn from the heads & flows to the frt/rear : rear feeding distrib/cam gear + pan & Frt feeding the timing chain system tru the drilled upper RHS cam plate drilled bolt?
The btm plate & epoxied holes puts more oil on the camshaft / cam brngs thru crank oil windage?

U rec the 2nd ring with more gap? like .020/.024?

Bigfootedalien

DP: Is this enough to do the holes or shall I get 2? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mo...views=FiveStar

Bigfootedalien

DP: Heres the plate : If I use the Moroso filler (( http://www.amazon.com/Moroso-35571-E...o+block+filler )) I can mount the plate tilt the eng to pore (sp the filler into the holes - the alum tips will kinda be a safety if 1 comes loose & hold it in! I ground dwn the center casting tit so the plate fits snug ontop those oblong holes! (what are the oblong holes called?)

Mounting that plate - the only places I can see with enough meat is to drill/tap holes just above each cam journal (see dots on plate) I can drill/tap/cut bolts to length (to not bother the cam brng)! Use red locktite & wire the 3 1/4" bolts? Any other sug on how to mount that?

Drag Pak

The block filler is way too much. No need to fill the whole lifter valley (just the as cast holes). You are trying to keep windage oil down.

The 2 part epoxy should be enough.

Mopar ring spec
1st ring 0.014 - 0.016
2nd ring 0.015 - 0.018

Bigfootedalien

Ok on the epoxy Ill just get the 2 part (Ill have questions on that before I mess with it

The plates done - holes drilled/tapped didnt drill wires holes yet I need to get the right wire/size to drill(more studying!)

Cam plate bolt holes drilled thru!

I drilled the rear main case into the cam brng 9/32 " is that enough? (The holes about 1/2" min 1/2 way dwn then I drilled the 9/32 into cam brng hole )

On the oil filter holes - (see picture) theres an inside ridge I can prob get @ with the pee grinder/carbide tip : shall I cut that ridge dwn in there?

Drag Pak

I believe the MP oil galley kit drill is 9/32". You can drill both the cam feeds, and the main feeds up into the oil galley. I have never ground out the dimple in the filter discharge holes, but less restriction is always good. I have ground the sharp edges off the other hole though, and I have oversized the filter adapter bolt feed holes on the 90 degree adapter bolt. I am sure you understand, you will have to remove all the galley plugs (front and rear)and do a major pressure cleaning after all this work.

I wired mine with 100 lb. test stainless multistrand fishing line. But that's what I had on hand.

Bigfootedalien

I'm going to use my cam spray hot steam pressure washer on the open oil system/kooling system just before I put it together / epoxy holes (itll be spotless) .

On the epoxy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moroso-35560...788518&vxp=mtr can I use this? This will be the hardest part to understand DP - how much do I need to buy (seeing the holes in the pictures) - how much do I cover the holes with (layer inside & on top & over the holes I take it? ) -

Bigfootedalien

DP: i found the locking wire on ebay & took the U TUBE lock wire course

Drag Pak

Mushroom the epoxy on both sides of the holes and you'll be fine. No point in saving any , lol.

Bigfootedalien

is this feesable on #4 cam brng & rear cam brng? Anything I can do there to help oil flo? (The cam holes are already drilled larger (7/32 I believe)!

Drag Pak

You can drill the rocker arm feed holes to the deck surface to 9/32". But do not drill the oil feed passages in the cylinder heads.

Bigfootedalien

Rocker feed holes to 9/32 ok : Any mods to rocker shaft holes?


Looking @ a Mopar 360 crank scraper $80 Crank-scraper.com May be a good investment for this?

Drag Pak

Hughes has a promising dyno report using a similar scaper.

Bigfootedalien

Heres a good oil flo diagram for others !

Yes Ill get that crank scraper ! Cheeper/maybe better way to save a bunch $$ instead of a windage screen/pan/bolts etc! Install instrucktions should come with it I just emailed them!

Talked to Kevin @ Crank-Scraper (nice guy) ordered the scraper : came to $95 w/shipping! We talked about using the 5 qt (oem) oil pan & he seems to think (like I do) with the scraper installed the 5qt OEM pan should work just fine!

Bigfootedalien

Long story short I cracked both elbows taking an unexpected digger - recouping & will be back @ this engine when I can start using force again! stay tuned HELL GETIN OLD )))