hishiad

Let's start with the "why"...it's stock to the truck, I'm just wanting a nice rumble that's dependable to/from shows and for cruising. I'm not planning to be a permanent fixture at the tracks or anything.


So my question is pretty straight forward. With no bottom end work where's the best bang for the buck in pushing that 318 up on the HP number?


Already planning headers and true dual exhaust straight pipes (my state emissions allows this). Also going to remove any of the smog stuff off the motor.


Thanks.

Coronet 500

These years of the 318 is when the block was transitioning to the Magnum and probably has roller lifter spider bosses cast in, very desirable. This gives you the option of flat tappet or roller cam, I have heard of some pre EFI with roller cams.

Our '87 has Ed Performer manifold, Street Demon 625 cfm carb, Comp XE 256 H cam with recommended 901 springs retainers and keepers. The 302 heads have stock small valves with a bowl blend and port match. Chrysler performance electronic distributor and orange box. This was done on a 125,000 K (75,000 mile) stock short block and ran 2 years then started to oil so we rebuilt it a few months ago, cam, lifters and top end back on and with the manual transmission decelerates like you threw an anchor out - HAPPY.

This cam is like a '68 340 4 speed cam, muscle car idle tone, no chop, high idle vacuum, pulls like a bull low end and great top end. Some go one or two steps higher in the XE series for their 318. Lunati has some very good Voodoo cams for this type of application.

Big question #1 - I would suggest seriously about going roller regrind to use synthetic oils without the ZDDP hassle.

Big question #2 - Larger 1.88", 1.60" valves for the heads with a bigger cam than mine. Lighter fun truck, why not.

The stock 340/360 cast iron intake manifold is great and overlooked in favour of aluminum. A Thermoquad, small Holley or Rochester Quadrajet are all good and I highly recommend the Street Demon.

Dan.

Gorts 5th

I ran the comp cams 268 454 xe
but I always use 360 heads with the stock vave size
my cam in my latest build is the comp dual energy cam kit if im rembering correctly its 270 275 with 488 lift my 360 heads are ported.. Im using eddy air gap intake and eddy 650 avs, and mallory electronc dizzy with mallory classic coil
my block has the roller system but im using hydrolic flat tappits
and as corrnet 500 sugested voodoo cams have nice kits
also.
look on farlies diplomat forum they have two streetable 400 hp builds for 318s listed there for more insight.
Your 318 is a very duable under_estimated small block . They will run down most any small block chny or frd.
Also my combo has a 390 gear with a a518 47re with factory 2000 rpm stall lockup tork converter. Its a very fast cimbo ....very fast!

hishiad

Thanks for the replies, both of you. Good info.

Here's where I started:

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...-engine-build/


I started to price out their part list and was starting to wonder if it was really ideal. I don't need 400 HP...if I hit 300 or even high 200s I know it'll be a fun little truck. I'm planning a full restore on the truck, so paint and interior and I also have a transmission to rebuild.


Thus far one thing I'm almost positive that I will do is swap out the heads to the 318 magnum ones and swap the cam to maximize compression.


The intake and carb are where I'm seeing the biggest potential money waste.


I don't need a $800 carb if a good one exist for less ya know?

hishiad

Also I think I found the recipes GREAT INFO!!!




http://www.dippy.org/forum2/index.php/topic,271.0.html

Gorts 5th

Alright your on the right track keep us posted on your progress
post some pics of. Ur ride

hishiad

Yeah now that it's finally warming up I'm planning to get some pictures of it one evening when it's nice outside.


Still a stock truck. I'm kind of on the fence about the order for which I need to attack the restore. At this point since it's a drivable truck I'm thinking of focusing on the mechanics...especially since I know already I have to pull and rebuild or replace the transmission anyway...thinking I'll pull motor too and remove all the smog stuff and clean up the bay then set the whole powertrain back in there after it's been rebuilt. The move to the brake/suspension systems after than.


Basically in my head I'd rather paint after all the major mechanical stuff is done so I won't be sick if I smack the body or anything....interior will be last since I plan to pull it all out and have interior cab painted as well.