Carter BBD 2-bbl adjustment question
#1
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
Carter BBD 2-bbl adjustment question
Hello,
So I put the stock carburetor on my 1968 Chrysler Newport (383). It got it on there with nearly no problem, except two.
First problem is that it will back fire every now and then. Second problem is that it needs to be tuned. I can't even keep it idling without the engine stalling. I have no idea how to tune this carburetor. (I am pretty dumb with these, as I have never tuned one. I'd imagine it'd be best to ask before I start turning screws )
The carburetor is a "United Carb" part 5-599 (rebuilt 2-bbl Carter BBD). Here's the link to the carburetor.
Would anyone know how to remedy this issue? I have to keep my foot on the accelerator to even keep it going. It just flat out will not idle, and it backfires sometimes when it starts.
Thanks!
EDIT: I double checked my work. I forgot to hook up a linkage to the carburetor. I fixed that, and it ran amazing for a minute or so. Maybe it was running a few hundred RPMs quicker than it should, but it sounded pretty nice. No chugging, nothing. I turned it off, then started it later with the air filter on... and now it stalls. I double checked the linkages again, and everything is fine. It runs at an extremely low RPM... practically to the point of which it stalls (it has a few times). Any ideas? :|
So I put the stock carburetor on my 1968 Chrysler Newport (383). It got it on there with nearly no problem, except two.
First problem is that it will back fire every now and then. Second problem is that it needs to be tuned. I can't even keep it idling without the engine stalling. I have no idea how to tune this carburetor. (I am pretty dumb with these, as I have never tuned one. I'd imagine it'd be best to ask before I start turning screws )
The carburetor is a "United Carb" part 5-599 (rebuilt 2-bbl Carter BBD). Here's the link to the carburetor.
Would anyone know how to remedy this issue? I have to keep my foot on the accelerator to even keep it going. It just flat out will not idle, and it backfires sometimes when it starts.
Thanks!
EDIT: I double checked my work. I forgot to hook up a linkage to the carburetor. I fixed that, and it ran amazing for a minute or so. Maybe it was running a few hundred RPMs quicker than it should, but it sounded pretty nice. No chugging, nothing. I turned it off, then started it later with the air filter on... and now it stalls. I double checked the linkages again, and everything is fine. It runs at an extremely low RPM... practically to the point of which it stalls (it has a few times). Any ideas? :|
Last edited by curtjr4; 07-11-2012 at 08:31 PM.
#2
Did it ever run right ? Start with basics Check the ign timing, check the spark plug routing. carb mix screws out 1.5-2 turns, check the vacuum hoses esp the vacuum advance. Should be ported not full time vacuum
#3
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
But yes, I will check all of that.
#5
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
It's weird though since when I first fire it up while it's cold, it actually runs at a higher RPM than it did with the Holley 2210. Then once I turn it off and attempt to turn it on, it is extremely sluggish. Maybe it needs to be more lean as opposed to rich? Just an idea. Never worked on carbs before...
#6
Mopar Lover
Without knowing just what you have hooked up and how you describe the operation it sounds like a choke and idle mixture problem. When cold and if the choke is working it is on the fast idle cam and runs fine. Later it has warmed up, has come of the choke and dies like it is then too lean.
I would make it hot then work the idle mixture screws at the starting point given. Don't think it's complicated, after you've done the bench work there is only two things to worry about, idle mixture when hot and the more complicated choke adjustment. I say more complicated only because of the linkage bending and measuring can get fussy and you have one chance while cold to see it operate on it's own. This is why years ago the mechanic would want the car overnight to see how it started when dead cold. You'll get this then be able to tell others how.
I would make it hot then work the idle mixture screws at the starting point given. Don't think it's complicated, after you've done the bench work there is only two things to worry about, idle mixture when hot and the more complicated choke adjustment. I say more complicated only because of the linkage bending and measuring can get fussy and you have one chance while cold to see it operate on it's own. This is why years ago the mechanic would want the car overnight to see how it started when dead cold. You'll get this then be able to tell others how.
#7
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
Well, I have it running now. I turn the engine on while cool, and it is at a slightly higher RPM. About a minute later, I can hear it kick down to a lower speed and sounds like a purring cat.
Now my problem is when I put it into gear, the RPM goes way down to where it's nearly stalling. It just idles rough while it is in gear. I bought new spark plug wires, a new distributor cap, and a new rotor. I should get new points and a condenser for it. Oh, and I need to time the engine.
And one final question. When the engine dropped RPM (in gear to where it was shaking), I pushed somewhat hard on the accelerator to get it moving (it was in the garage, and I wanted to get it out for the concern of carbon monoxide). When I put it in park, I walked back into the garage to see water splashed all over the wall and on the floor from the tailpipes. The pipes are also starting to rust. I smelled the fluid that came out, and it was just water. No smell what-so-ever, and it was clear. I am concerned since this is going to cause a big rust problem for me. I noticed it did this thing with the water with the Holley on it, but not like this. There can't be water in the gas... I went through two half-tanks already, refilling it when it was practically empty. Any ideas as to this water problem?
Now my problem is when I put it into gear, the RPM goes way down to where it's nearly stalling. It just idles rough while it is in gear. I bought new spark plug wires, a new distributor cap, and a new rotor. I should get new points and a condenser for it. Oh, and I need to time the engine.
And one final question. When the engine dropped RPM (in gear to where it was shaking), I pushed somewhat hard on the accelerator to get it moving (it was in the garage, and I wanted to get it out for the concern of carbon monoxide). When I put it in park, I walked back into the garage to see water splashed all over the wall and on the floor from the tailpipes. The pipes are also starting to rust. I smelled the fluid that came out, and it was just water. No smell what-so-ever, and it was clear. I am concerned since this is going to cause a big rust problem for me. I noticed it did this thing with the water with the Holley on it, but not like this. There can't be water in the gas... I went through two half-tanks already, refilling it when it was practically empty. Any ideas as to this water problem?
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