josehf34

Maybe tomorrow I'm going to check the total advance also I already check the idle mixture screws and the engine respond to both screws but respond better to right than left. Is this normal?

Do you think that compression is fine for a recently rebuild engine? that engine doesn't has 1000 miles since rebuilt and I think the compression test is very low

Coronet 500

I think it is low, can you explain what was done to rebuild? Was it new pistons, bored and honed or same pistons new rings with a deglaze and bearings?


When you find out total timing and we get that set it's probably time for a serious drive.

josehf34

Crankshaft and block were machined, when I bought the engine that was the second rebuild so the block was bored .02 over. All the cylinders were sleeved but the sleeves were bore again to .02 so I reused the low compression pistons, new rings, new bearings, new timing chain, new oil pump, new valve guides, the machine shop told me that the valve seats were fine so they didn't replaced them, new lifters (but I think I have some problem with one that isn't charging), all new gaskets (I don't know which is the compression height of the new head gasket), new water pump and 195 degree thermostat.

Let me test the entire advance and post it here

pro-tech

Cam Timing???

josehf34

I need to check it but the camshaft is stock

pro-tech

It doesn't matter if it is stock or performance...I think your timing gears were not installed properly/degreed and now the timing is off/retarded....(no power, not responsive, runs hot, a dog/surging...)...All the previous stuff is good advice but if the cam timing is off you are just chasing your tail...Bill

440roadrunner

'S what I've been tryin' ta say..............

RacerHog

I know it might be hard to rap your head around.... But trust me when I say That Bill Has been down that road and it needs to be checked...
Bill and I spent a weekend just Bouncing problems back and forth to find a problem with a miss machined Timing Gear Set that bit the chit out of a engine build. Once the problem was found, Now that engine runs great.

josehf34

Here's an interesting question: Today somebody teach me how to use the degree wheel but the engine was on an engine stand. Is there a way to use the degree wheel with the engine on the car or must I remove the damper and all accesories?

I want to leave doubts about the engine status before pulling it out of the car again.

Sorry Mr. I was trying to do the most simple first

pro-tech

Some times people need to be told by more than one person... wasn't trying to step on you...I just know the hassle and money I spent trying to figure out my problem... And ended up tearing the engine back down and going back through it with great thought and checking everything twice...Sometimes these builds are so second nature and you've done so many you miss a simple problem...I should of degreed the cam the first time and it never would have happened... (My laziness cost me more than just time) The cam is degreed now...Bill

440roadrunner

Not at all, I was merely agreeing, LOL

No, you can most CERTAINLY degree the cam in the car. Just remove "enough stuff" that you can get it in there. The Summit degree wheel "is nice" because it has a big enough hole in the wheel that the big bolt in the Chrysler bolt fits right in the wheel.

What I do is simply remove the bolt and for a "quick check" use washers to avoid warping the wheel. Put a huge flat washer on each side of the degree wheel. You are not trying to get the wheel "zeroed" to match the original timing marks. Rather, use a pointer and a piston stop, and "make" the pointer zeroe'd to the wheel The zero point can be "anywhere"

In other words simply tighten the wheel down and leave it, then move / bend the pointer

There are many many videos and destructions on the 'net to degree cams. All the major cam grinders have "how to's" on this, Comp Cams is one

josehf34

Thank you, I'm going to ask to my friend, maybe somebody has one of this degree wheels (I don't have one).

Can be a good option use the vacuum gauge to be 100% sure when piston number 1 is at TDC? I saw this method on a video but I'm not sure should I use it

440roadrunner

I would quite simply use a piston stop. This is a known positive method. Google piston stop, you'll find lots of results. What you are trying to do is NOT stop the engine right at TDC but rather stop the piston "down in the bore" a ways. You install the piston stop, wrench the engine around until the piston stops and make an accurate temporary mark onto the balancer under TDC on the timing tab. You might have to play with the length of the stop the first time.

Make sure you lock the stop so it does not move.

Now rotate the engine CCW so the piston stops, going in the opposite rotation, and make a second mark onto the balancer. When you are done, you will have two temporary marks, and true TDC will be halfway in between. If the original TDC mark on the balancer is correct, that is where it will be.

josehf34

I just did the TDC test and apparently the cam timing is fine, when the degree wheel is at open valve section I can see (with the valve cover removed) the valve start opening, but not exactly when the open valve section starts.

My mechanic help me doing this test and he told me that my vacuum signal is normal due to the altitude of the city where I live that is 1600 meters over sea level (5250 ft) and said me that most of the vehicles that he has tested here usually are between 16 ~ 19 vacuum signal. I did the vacuum test with my fathers Ford Explorer 2002 and the vacuum gauge shows 19 vacuum but that car is near of 180000 miles and maybe is starting to need an engine rebuild

He left the distributor at 10 degrees of initial advance, test the complete advance and is about 38 degrees and now I have 18 vacuum signal

More ideas?

Coronet 500

Do you know at what RPM you get 38 degrees?
38 - 10 = 28 degrees in the distributor, that's alot.

I would like to see you decrease the 38 total and increase the 10 initial.

Do you know if that new distributor of yours has adjustable mechanical advance?

TVLynn

May have one of those miss marked timing sets ? Are you setting the timing ?? to BTDC or ATDC

josehf34

Sorry I was so busy so can't reply the thread

If I'm right is ATDC

If the adjustable mechanical advance are the springs near the distributor rotor, yes it has adjustable mechanical advance

TVLynn

IT SHOULD BE SET TO 10-15 deg BTDC.. The Piston stop only verifies the crankshaft is correct and to set up the degree wheel. It doese not verify cam timing...

TVLynn

IT SHOULD BE SET TO 10-15 deg BTDC.. The Piston stop only verifies the crankshaft is correct and to set up the degree wheel. It does not verify cam timing...

josehf34

Sorry I'm wrong, I checked again and I'm using the "Before" mark so I think is BTDC