Magnum swap cam advice
11-25-2014, 09:50 AM
#1
Magnum swap cam advice
Some guidance needed please!
Sorry this is so long winded but I figure the more info the better the recommendations. I've spent the last month going dizzy researching info for a bunch of mods for my 72 Dodge B300 Sportsman Royal Maxiwagon. It has the original 360 (previous owner upgrades include a cast iron 4bbl manifold, dble row timing chain, true dual exhaust and MP electronic ignition, I also swapped the beat Carb for an edelbrock 1406) 727 (has been in rough shape for a year+ now) and dana 60 with 3:55's.
I going for best MPG's possible for this 6k lb rig that is my daily driver that I also take on trips and will occasionally tow with. I'm thinking I'll actually get better mileage with the performance upgrades since it's so heavy.
I picked up a 95 46rh (from a long bed 318 ram w/ lockup HD aftermarket TC but not sure of stall speed, owner had the trans rebuilt in 07 and upgraded since he did some towing but truck was rarely used, he died and neighbor parted it out. Bought it for $175!), B&M flexplate weighted to mate the unweighted TC to an LA360 and the PAC kit to hook up and control the trans. (Any info on hooking the speedo and an on/off for the overdrive would be greatly appreciated)
So I just scored a set of "rebuilt" 360 magnum heads that just had a valve job, checked for cracks, and springs tested and checked out, with the rockers and valve covers included. $200 and $40 in gas getting them. I also have a set of headman long tube headers on the way.
What cam would you recommend considering the weight of the van to get the best mpg's with the rest of the set up? I know I'll need new lifters and pushrods too but trying to just go ahead with the factory magnum springs and rockers. Considering a thin head gasket to bump up the compression more (I know the
Pushrods will have to be shorter) is that a good idea considering the weight? I plan on running everything pretty well under 4k rpm 99% of the time.
Also probably the biggest pain in the *** is I'd like to keep my AC so need to drill the heads for the cast iron manifold, I also hear that I'll have to modify the alternator bracket since it hits by an eighth of an inch. Anyone know of someone in the Pittsburgh area with experience that can drill the heads? Is there a jig out there that can be rented? I know Hughes drills them, but I think shipping them around will cost me more than I bought them for. And it's all adding up REAL quick.
All recs will be GREATLY appreciated, I'm going cross eyed researching all this stuff!
Sorry this is so long winded but I figure the more info the better the recommendations. I've spent the last month going dizzy researching info for a bunch of mods for my 72 Dodge B300 Sportsman Royal Maxiwagon. It has the original 360 (previous owner upgrades include a cast iron 4bbl manifold, dble row timing chain, true dual exhaust and MP electronic ignition, I also swapped the beat Carb for an edelbrock 1406) 727 (has been in rough shape for a year+ now) and dana 60 with 3:55's.
I going for best MPG's possible for this 6k lb rig that is my daily driver that I also take on trips and will occasionally tow with. I'm thinking I'll actually get better mileage with the performance upgrades since it's so heavy.
I picked up a 95 46rh (from a long bed 318 ram w/ lockup HD aftermarket TC but not sure of stall speed, owner had the trans rebuilt in 07 and upgraded since he did some towing but truck was rarely used, he died and neighbor parted it out. Bought it for $175!), B&M flexplate weighted to mate the unweighted TC to an LA360 and the PAC kit to hook up and control the trans. (Any info on hooking the speedo and an on/off for the overdrive would be greatly appreciated)
So I just scored a set of "rebuilt" 360 magnum heads that just had a valve job, checked for cracks, and springs tested and checked out, with the rockers and valve covers included. $200 and $40 in gas getting them. I also have a set of headman long tube headers on the way.
What cam would you recommend considering the weight of the van to get the best mpg's with the rest of the set up? I know I'll need new lifters and pushrods too but trying to just go ahead with the factory magnum springs and rockers. Considering a thin head gasket to bump up the compression more (I know the
Pushrods will have to be shorter) is that a good idea considering the weight? I plan on running everything pretty well under 4k rpm 99% of the time.
Also probably the biggest pain in the *** is I'd like to keep my AC so need to drill the heads for the cast iron manifold, I also hear that I'll have to modify the alternator bracket since it hits by an eighth of an inch. Anyone know of someone in the Pittsburgh area with experience that can drill the heads? Is there a jig out there that can be rented? I know Hughes drills them, but I think shipping them around will cost me more than I bought them for. And it's all adding up REAL quick.
All recs will be GREATLY appreciated, I'm going cross eyed researching all this stuff!
11-25-2014, 11:25 AM
#2
Mopar Lover
My Suggestion if your looking for a flat tappet Hyd. cam.......
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2340&gid=287
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2340&gid=287
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Bound4Mexico (11-25-2014)
11-25-2014, 01:56 PM
#3
Thanks Cowboy, should've mentioned I am DEFINITELY looking at hydraulic flat tappets, a roller set up would cost as much as everything else combined. Crazy how expensive thy are
11-25-2014, 04:01 PM
#4
this might help jetting AFB and edelbrock carbs.
AFB jetting long ver.
edelbrock does NOT know how to jet a carb. 1. hint change only jets. or rods at a time if you change both you cant guess what the change was. 2. hint change jets and rod to more like the size of OEM carter carbs. 3. if the jet does not come out easy dont force, that will strip the jet out. 4. hint there is a trick to get difficult jets out. take it all apart, get a small torch on the jet, when the color of the flame changes hit it with water. let it cool should work. i have done this only once, but it did work. But dont put the jet hard, just very lite tightness.
Title: AFB and edelbrock carb / the short verson.
setting an AFB carb takes time. make only small changes. and give it time, dont make changes in an hour or two. drive it in different ways over a day or two. on AFBs or AVSs change only the jet OR rod at one time. and start with the jets. a .003" change can be felt if you try. dont forget .003" on a .060" jet is less change than .003" on a.100" jet. Then start changing the rod. A little is a LOT. i do have a computer program to cal any combo of changes. but it is lost in some main frame of my sons. Sometimes you can set the float level to 5/16”. the stock setting is 7/32. if at 5/16” at idle the fuel runs out of the main discharge nozzle reset to the stock setting. NOTE: do NOT change jets AND rods at the same time. Do not put the jets in tight, just snug is fine.
BUT THIS WILL.
Here is program to rejet ANY jet / rod combo
*http://clarkehackworth.com/files/JetsAndRods.html
AFB jetting long ver.
edelbrock does NOT know how to jet a carb. 1. hint change only jets. or rods at a time if you change both you cant guess what the change was. 2. hint change jets and rod to more like the size of OEM carter carbs. 3. if the jet does not come out easy dont force, that will strip the jet out. 4. hint there is a trick to get difficult jets out. take it all apart, get a small torch on the jet, when the color of the flame changes hit it with water. let it cool should work. i have done this only once, but it did work. But dont put the jet hard, just very lite tightness.
Title: AFB and edelbrock carb / the short verson.
setting an AFB carb takes time. make only small changes. and give it time, dont make changes in an hour or two. drive it in different ways over a day or two. on AFBs or AVSs change only the jet OR rod at one time. and start with the jets. a .003" change can be felt if you try. dont forget .003" on a .060" jet is less change than .003" on a.100" jet. Then start changing the rod. A little is a LOT. i do have a computer program to cal any combo of changes. but it is lost in some main frame of my sons. Sometimes you can set the float level to 5/16”. the stock setting is 7/32. if at 5/16” at idle the fuel runs out of the main discharge nozzle reset to the stock setting. NOTE: do NOT change jets AND rods at the same time. Do not put the jets in tight, just snug is fine.
BUT THIS WILL.
Here is program to rejet ANY jet / rod combo
*http://clarkehackworth.com/files/JetsAndRods.html
11-25-2014, 07:33 PM
#6
Will definitely keep posted on the progress Cowboy.
Moe thank you for that info, been reading how the Edelbrock carbs are easy to instal but are not fine tuneable at all. I'll probably try and find a quadrajet eventually and someone who can reach me how to tune one lol
Moe thank you for that info, been reading how the Edelbrock carbs are easy to instal but are not fine tuneable at all. I'll probably try and find a quadrajet eventually and someone who can reach me how to tune one lol
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