easyriderknucklehead

I have had problems with idle jumping high low and yesterday after trying another carb we still had same issues so we sprayed brake fluid around the manifold and it dropped idle and ides . So I have a 383 with aluminum edelbrock heads and intake . it has a belly pan and I have ordered gaskets but only 2 I believe. I was planning on reusing the belly pan and now need help in re-installation when gaskets arrive. Should I put gaskets on between intake and belly pan ?? Do I use Aviation gasket brush on the surface ?? I read about rtv but not sure , I also am considering The Right Stuff by Permatex !! I don ,t know if I should remove the belly pan and seal under it also and do I need gaskets under it and sealer ?? What is the torque and proper procedure for this ?

RacerHog

To start out with... Did you seal the ends of the valley pan with anything yet?

easyriderknucklehead

no I have not even pulled anything off yet still waiting for gaskets to come in I hope I got the right ones I ordered fel pro but not sure if I told the store I have aluminum edelbrock intake and heads and edelbrock online said do not use Permatorque gaskets on aluminum and to order oem or fel pro Printoseal gaskets , ( not sure what or why the mean by that ) I have been researching online today but not much on Mopar s but some others on chevy swear bt The right stuff for a sealant. I do not know if I should take the belly pan off and put sealant there or gaskets under neath and use the right stuff all around or what ?? This is what I need help with , My first intake repair and this engine was just put together less than 1000 miles on it . I do not know why it leaks already .

RacerHog

Ok... So I'm Going to Guess you got this deal?
>>>>> https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...VekaAqVr8P8HAQ <<<<<<<<
remove and clean everything.... use a little sealer under the valley pan on the end's of the valley pan, a little more in the corners so they dont leak or seep.
I use Gask-a-cinch to mate the valley pan to the gaskets.... And then I use a very little coat of the Silver/Gray RTV on the intake and head surface's..
Tighten from the inside working around the manifold to the outside. let stand about 5 min. and re-tighten all the bolts one last time and you should be trouble free....

Just my 2 cents....

Keep us posted...

easyriderknucklehead

so I will post some pictures here I took the edelbrock performer intake off with a little difficulty trying to get the 2 8mm allen bolts out with an extension and socket. It will be impossible on the two as the manifold sits high around the two bolts. I wonder if I can use an allen key 8mm if I can find one or is there another tool you suggest? There was no gaskets under the belly pan or the manifold, just some orange silicon like stuff in the bolt holes and the front and rear plates that hold the belly pan. Went to the auto parts store, I am getting the kit with 4 gaskets, new belly pan by fel-pro.


I was told the "right-stuff" gasket sealer was like glue, and in the future be hard to remove if I need to take the intake off again. I want to use it, because I don't want to do this job again. It sounds like a great sealant but maybe the aviation gasket brush on sealant would work similar they say to the edelbrock gaska-stuff.


Also, how long should the bolts stick out of the manifold into the head. I have about 1/2 inch and I bought some antiseize for the bolts to put on.

easyriderknucklehead

RacerHog

Those photos told me it was sealed??????? But will just go with it was not...
As for the allen wrench, You can cut one short if you need too...
Dont go nuts with the sealer. A light coat is all you need. Use what ever you feel easy for you to use, if my suggestion dont fit. Trust me, I'm not going to get mad...lol I use stuff most folks wont even buy. Its way to expensive for there budget. I'm a pretty passive guy...lol
As for the bolts. It will depend if the bolt holes are Blunt or go all the way threw the other side. If there blunt holes, dont use bolts too long. If they go all the way threw. Dont use use bolts too long, A couple can interfere with push rods. You just need them to be long enough to just go out the other end, and those you will want to add a little sealant to so oil wont push out the threads and make a mess. The others for the blunts, I like to see a little Anti-Seize on.

Just my 2 cents...
Good luck with the install..
Looks like you did a good job on the last install, Maybe the bolts just worked loose?

easyriderknucklehead

thanks for the advice again will put it back together tomorrow let you know how it goes ! racerhog you mentioned the grey rtv in a previous post is that the (expensive stuff you use or which is the absolute do it once and forget about the extra bucks you would recommend you like. Also you said sealant on the gaskets to belly pan and intake to manifold the rtv around the ports or what?? Do you suggest around the ports under belly pan and around the gasket openings to ports and again on the manifold side to gaskets ? Like a thin bead smeared with finger to make sure it does not go inside . Please fill me in a little better I don t know why I still haven t got it clear yet . thanks for your help again .

RacerHog

Yes on the RTV on the valley pan and around the ports. Both sides... You got the idea.

The Gray is the GM sealant....
I use the Lawson P# 93844 at about $18.00 a can.. https://www.lawsonproducts.com/Lawso...icone/93844.lp


But the GM gray stuff works great also...

easyriderknucklehead

I put the manifold back on plenty of sealer around pan ends and small thin film around ports and tightened it down left it overnight. I used the right stuff and all 4 gaskets!! I still have similar issues frustrating it idles at 800-900 rpm and then shortly it drops and dies I then start it up and its idle at 1200-1300 ? drop it into gear and idle drops to 800 and sometimes it maintains at that or stalls . I am having to 2 foot it at red lights. runs great otherwise I think and did well on the dyno 365 horsepower at wheels.


I know you guys been asking for specs on cam I do not have them and can only tell you what last owner says 3/4 cam edelbock heads roller, carter carb and electronic msd ignition . Could this cam be installed wrong is the next question?? Is it the fuel pump the fuel pressure guage says 3-5 jumping around . What about distributor springs or set up it is all brand new and I gotta give the builder some credit but what the heck??

RacerHog

Ok.... Hold the buss..... Now a few question.......
Did it ever run well and idle ok....
Or has this been happening ever sense you put the engine in the car?

RacerHog

Has it ever back fired on you?

Dose the car have power brakes?

What size is the carb?

What do you have the timing set at now?

easyriderknucklehead

I bought the car with the engine in it , the day before I met the previous owner he called me up said is it o.k. the car will not idle probably the car its been sitting all winter blah blah blah. I figure I drove it sounds healthy I will rebuild carb or get a new one (its a Carter 650) edelbrock I guess and we went through it changed the accelerator pump, tried 3-4 different springs and metering rods and set the timing to 36 degrees. I have msd ignition and autolite spark plugs .032 gap. I asked the previous owner about this idle issue and he said it has never idle perfectly and its a race engine , big 3/4 cam but he can t tell me specs.
I talked to a friend in B.C. and he says he can get his cars and truck to idle perfect no matter what size cam it has? I have taken it to 2 shops now and working on a third soon but am I wasting money here. Oh and yes it has backfired out the carb and exhaust before on a cold start where I thought I Flooded it and the plugs were all carboned up black. BUt even today after I did the manifold and tried to start it it was a bitch I thought I flooded it again or something and it backfired a bit smoke - fire under carb -air cleaner but eventually after numerous attempts it ran fine. I checked the fuel pump pressure took the hose off pumped into bottle descent but fuel pressure showed jumping 3-5 psi . I got it to idle but not consistant and short period and it changes like in a minute or 2 . It does idle better at 1300 rpm steady not as jumpy

easyriderknucklehead

oh and yes RACERHOG it does have power brakes it had very low vacuum at idle and very hard brake pedal ( well sorry it has the power brake booster behind the dual master cylinder) I notice the smaller reservoir on master is always wet and low not the larger rear one and leaks somehow. I asked the owner he said new booster and master about 5 years old but not driven car much. I installed a comp cams Reservoir tank that gives me softer pedal I believe works better.