64Imperial

My 440 been running awesome other than my bugs im working out, i started my car up this morning and i have a rattling noise coming from the lifters ( at least i hope it is sounds like it to me )
I warmed the car up its running fine but this rattle just started today. I am wondering if any of these can effect it?

I not started it in 3 days & its been down to single digits with high of 30 degrees outside for 3-4 days straight
I have not changed the original break in oil when I broke the engine in yet can the oil be too old now? I was waiting till 1000 miles to get it done. I have high zinc comp cams break in oil in it. was like $7 a quart

rattling didnt stop after i wamed it up for 15 min in drive way and took it about 5 miles drive got home checked it in park still rattles
I checked the oil oil level is fine, The engine has about 800-900 miles on it so far so can lifters go bad that fast? they are stock ones I had put back on machine shop did all the work. or do they need tightened?
I hope they dont need tightened cause id have to pull the motor to do it the passenger side Valve covers cant come off cause the heater core box thing on the fire wall I barley fit the engine in there. the mopar valve covers said they were stock height but they lied they were about 1" taller than stock.

Is the car safe to drive with these rattling? I'm 90% sure its lifters they tap to fast to be rod related,

TVLynn

Pull the valve covers and make sure you have oil to the top end.. Otherwise I would maybe pull the intake and the valley cover and check the cam.. The cam can be wiped out in no time without the proper anti wear additives

64Imperial

The engine had tons of lube on the whole cam and everything before i put it together, broke it in according to the manufacturer too. ... This sounds crappy ill have no way to pull the engine out at least for 6 months and its my daily driver right now. i have to pull then engine to be able to take the driver side Valve cover off, The long block was built by a local machine shop he ordered the pistons and other parts and build the engine in 3 days maybe he rushed something?

Can my break in oil having 8-900 miles on it be a possibility?

I opened my valve cover and looked inside where you can add oil there was oil in the valve covers is that sufficient enough to see there is oil?

Iowan

Do you have an oil pressure gage or idiot light and is it missing?

fivepoint

What is the oil pressure? Does it sound like one loose or is the whole valve train rattling? If its just one loose and its on the drivers side, it can be fixed easily. Even if you have to remove the intake manifold to replace a lifter. If its on the right side, will removing the motor mount bolt and roll the engine up, give you the clearance needed to remove the valve cover? Good luck

64Imperial

i have no pressure gauge at all or a light, and i have 1/2" clearance between the top of the valve cover and that heater box on the fire wall and the engine is about 5 inches under that box cant lift it enough to get it over the rockers, rolling it im 90% sure wouldn't give me the clearance needed. it rattles really fast has to be more than one I would think... can rockers make taping noises?

RacerHog

If the engine was put together by the machine shop.... I would run the car by there and see what they say about it? If they are a good shop? They will make good on the deal. My guy would repull the motor and fix what ever was wrong, and give the car back to me in good running order. But however. If he found it was something that I had done! he would charged me full pop. And I never argued one bit....
Sure Miss That Guy..... R.I.P. (Jose S&S Engine's)

RacerHog

I guess I did not answer the question....lol

Is the rattle only on one side?

I agree with the others on this... You ether have a parts failure or an oiling issue. no way around it but going back in to fix it....

All you can really hope at this point is that it might be one of the OEM rockers has a little to much wear in it and causing the rattle.

But if its an oil issue... our going back into it....

64Imperial

Sounds like its from both sides to me, which is bad why would both start the same time unless it is in-fact the cam its self? its the hughes whiplash cam I put in it. hmmm Idk if they guy is good or not but people that build engines now days are kinda of limited supply almost no one here knows anything about old cars talked to a few mechanics they all only know cars with computers cause the computers do all their work for them lmao. Idk if he would pull the engine fix it and everything i kinda doubt it, cause i delivered him the engine out of the car from the start, he only build the long block & I broke the cam in according to hughes instructions. and i'm moving in 3-4 weeks to Fort Wayne indiana.

My mom bought my brother a car from a guy that owns a dealer he said the car was fine and everything and with a complete tune up, bought it for 1700, $100 above blue book got it home and it needed $900 worth of work so its in the shop all the other shops quoted us $1200, this took liek 1/3 our money we needed to move. it had a bad waterpump, and radiator they put the leak fix stuff in it to stop the leak, but it clogged up the block & radiator had to flush it out and his "tune" up was 4 spark plugs nothing else lmfao,

He wants my imperial cause the engine in it and he loves the sound. hes willing to trade me a 2009 Saturn Aura XR fully loaded leather and all with 223k miles on it, $3500 and adding a 60 month 100k mile full power train warranty for anything that touches any fluid in the trans or engine , maybe ill just trade him and not mess with it.... I dont have the money or the space to fix my car if it is bad regardless hmmmm maybe ill just trade him. I recently sold my daily driver to pay bills so this been my daily driver too.
His warranty is as follows: He boned my mom telling her that car was great when we are having financial problems, Moms only buying my bro a car cause they are losing theirs to the bank, so why not bone him back? What you guys think?

Standard Coverage

Engine

All internally lubricated parts including: pistons, piston rings and pins, crankshaft and main bearings, connecting rods and rod bearings, camshaft and bearings, oil pump, timing chain and/or gears, rocker arms, valves, valve springs, seats and guides, valve pushrods and lifters. The engine block, cylinder head, and rotary housing are covered only if damaged by an internally lubricated part. Seals and gaskets are covered when replaced in conjunction with covered repairs.
Transmission

All internally lubricated parts in the transmission case and torque converter. The transmission case is covered only when damaged by an internally lubricated part.
Four Wheel Drive

All internal lubricated parts of transfer case and differential – front and rear. (4×4 option must be selected for this coverage).
Cooling System

Water pump and thermostat.
Fuel System

Fuel Injection nozzles. Not included for Diesel powered vehicles. The Standard Plus Option Must be selected for coverage on the component.

RacerHog

Sounds like y'all are in a true Pickle.... Sorry man... Sorry the build didnt work out better.. That really blows..
Its probably something simple too... Just got over looked....
Best of luck in Indiana.. Looks cold up that way rite now, from the news report...

Iowan

If you knew the oil pressure that would be a start.

TVLynn

Here's a cheap alternative oil pressure gauge. Otherwise I would Change the oil and use a GOOD oil filter and maybe ??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Oil-Press...hVJ1Mf&vxp=mtr

Iowan

I'd pull the relief valve, clean and reassemble then change oil and put a gauge on it.

Iowan

Just to be clear, thats oil pump relief valve, I've seen them stick open with rtv from assembly and also metal from machining.

If you keep running it you could take out the crank so you need to look into it.

demetri

Oil pressure gage is really cheap and really easy to install. It is an absolute must to have an oil pressure gage with an old car, especially after you have rebuilt the engine. If all lifters started rattling simultaneously, it sounds like the oil pressure went low for some reason. You should not have driven the car with low oil pressure. Now, there may already be internal damage in the engine, so another tear down may be necessary. You have probably started flattening up the cam, and who knows what the bearings look like?


So, may be the minimums are. New oil pump, new cam and lifters. If the oil pressure is reasonable, may be the crank is OK.

demetri

I forgot another point. Imperials have oil pressure gages in the dash from the factory. They typically do not have numbers on them, but they have a permissible range. All you have to do is connect a wire to the sending unit, and you have a reading in your dash at all times.


Was yours working> Did you see a change in reading? It should have gone close to zero if this caused the problem.