74 A body front end upgrade
07-16-2015, 09:26 PM
#1
74 A body front end upgrade
It's time for a few new parts . Rebuilt steering box from Steer and Gear out of Columbus, Ohio. PST adjustable tube upper control arm, lower ball joints, polygrahite performance super front end kit, with 9/16 tie rod ends with solid sleeves. How should the 9/16 instead
of 11/16 tie rods work out with a bb in an a body drag car? Thanks.
of 11/16 tie rods work out with a bb in an a body drag car? Thanks.
07-30-2015, 05:28 PM
#7
Sorry I had that bacactwwards I meant how will 11/16 do instead of 9/16 tie rods with solid sleeves? I guess heavier, lol ...but stronger seeing how I'm back around 1.4 60s without trans.brake. should see alot quicker 60s. Fronts are now getting some air so I want to be sure it is ready. Thinking of new adjustable drag shocks, anyone recommend any?
07-31-2015, 11:31 AM
#11
Mopar Lover
Most any help, is good help... However, with my old ride it got to point that I was just tired of dealing with the Torsion Bar set up and moved over to Coil over with tubular a-arms.. Worked real nice for what I was doing anyhow...
08-01-2015, 05:16 PM
#12
Yep ,I'm not really enjoying the experience. Lol. I can definitely see where it can get old. Never had a problem until I started removing them . I have the upper tube arms just wondering what else it would take to convert to the coilovers.
04-05-2016, 04:39 AM
#14
Going to stay with the stock front end for now along with the leafspring rear .
With upgrades to both. As far as I know the torsion bars are original 1974 /6 bars. Which many say to stay with for drag. One problem that developed was the car would launch pulling fronts about a foot then dropping quickly then taking off . If tb,s wear out and loose their spring rate then surely these are shot.
Was thinking maybe go one size larger but if we keep same size with new ones that may be enough along with qa1 adjustable shocks. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks
With upgrades to both. As far as I know the torsion bars are original 1974 /6 bars. Which many say to stay with for drag. One problem that developed was the car would launch pulling fronts about a foot then dropping quickly then taking off . If tb,s wear out and loose their spring rate then surely these are shot.
Was thinking maybe go one size larger but if we keep same size with new ones that may be enough along with qa1 adjustable shocks. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks
04-05-2016, 05:50 AM
#15
Mopar Lover
At what RPM did you leave?
Also Trans brake or Just foot braked.
What We have found is if you limit the front end "yank" The transfer of forward motion will pick up.... But not in all cases....
On the Rear Leaf Spring... Is it Super Stock Springs or have you moved over to Cal-Trac's Yet?
Also Trans brake or Just foot braked.
What We have found is if you limit the front end "yank" The transfer of forward motion will pick up.... But not in all cases....
On the Rear Leaf Spring... Is it Super Stock Springs or have you moved over to Cal-Trac's Yet?
04-05-2016, 08:21 AM
#16
Good mornin, that was with footbrake and about 2600 . Trying to get this thing ready for the new roller engine.
500 ci . That was also with a 30 over 440.,, I know things are going to change. Changed to just about all polygrahite bushings in front end.
New adjustable shocks , and torsion bars. No change to the rear yet. Maybe try what we have only adding new bushings & see what happens.
500 ci . That was also with a 30 over 440.,, I know things are going to change. Changed to just about all polygrahite bushings in front end.
New adjustable shocks , and torsion bars. No change to the rear yet. Maybe try what we have only adding new bushings & see what happens.
04-05-2016, 08:29 AM
#17
We also have the tubular uca's ,upper and lower ball joints. New stops ,the old ones were crushed and that's what's got me thinking about the tor.Bars.
Solid sleeve tie rods. Hopefully it won't wobble the tires like in the vid. above when it lands. I saw where the super stock rear leafs changed ride height, could maybe go up but not any lower. Seems they either raise or lower, not sure. Also not sure about rear shocks, it takes tall ones. Don't know to try these again or maybe a set not adjustable like we have. Don't know what rate these are. . Or should I just go with adjustable s all the way around. So if you tighten up the front make it have less travel the front will raise while moving forward, like we want?
Solid sleeve tie rods. Hopefully it won't wobble the tires like in the vid. above when it lands. I saw where the super stock rear leafs changed ride height, could maybe go up but not any lower. Seems they either raise or lower, not sure. Also not sure about rear shocks, it takes tall ones. Don't know to try these again or maybe a set not adjustable like we have. Don't know what rate these are. . Or should I just go with adjustable s all the way around. So if you tighten up the front make it have less travel the front will raise while moving forward, like we want?
Last edited by Skynyrd; 04-05-2016 at 08:49 AM.
04-05-2016, 10:48 AM
#18
Mopar Lover
Ok... you answered my question....
What may be causing the car to pick up and set rite back down again at this point is the lack of enough Power to carry and hold the car up while giving it the forward propulsion it's needing...
Lets look at leaving at around 4500 RPM and see how the car like that....
What may be causing the car to pick up and set rite back down again at this point is the lack of enough Power to carry and hold the car up while giving it the forward propulsion it's needing...
Lets look at leaving at around 4500 RPM and see how the car like that....
Last edited by RacerHog; 04-05-2016 at 10:55 AM.
04-05-2016, 11:29 AM
#19
That's right! Couldn't tell what suspension that had but it worked really well. Caltracs maybe. I think your right. Launch off transbrake around 4500 with the new power should put an end to the dropping back down. Everything should be coming together next 2 weeks. Been waiting on rods along with some other parts all winter.
04-05-2016, 01:11 PM
#20
Mopar Lover
I pretty sure that's a 4-link bar set up on the azz of the ride?
There Could be other things involved... I'm just looking at most things being on a equal playing field at the moment. Now if you had told us is jumped up sat the front end back down, and blow the tires off " went up in smoke" I would look at it at a differently...
Give it a try with the small motor if you have removed it yet...
Hope that Help Skynynd....
There Could be other things involved... I'm just looking at most things being on a equal playing field at the moment. Now if you had told us is jumped up sat the front end back down, and blow the tires off " went up in smoke" I would look at it at a differently...
Give it a try with the small motor if you have removed it yet...
Hope that Help Skynynd....
Last edited by RacerHog; 04-05-2016 at 01:15 PM.
04-06-2016, 07:27 AM
#22
I guess you just have to experiment , when changes are made and it effects how it launches you have to
find that sweet spot again. This all started when we changed to the new trans. and had to set preload on the torsion bars again. We were trying to adjust them up but it kept dropping back down ( settling ) to much . I believe they are shot. No engine in the car, New ones almost ready, just waiting on heads.
Thinking new adjustable shocks qa1 or Viking for the front. Trying to decide weather to stick with the smallest bar or go up 1 size.
find that sweet spot again. This all started when we changed to the new trans. and had to set preload on the torsion bars again. We were trying to adjust them up but it kept dropping back down ( settling ) to much . I believe they are shot. No engine in the car, New ones almost ready, just waiting on heads.
Thinking new adjustable shocks qa1 or Viking for the front. Trying to decide weather to stick with the smallest bar or go up 1 size.
04-06-2016, 07:36 AM
#23
Mopar Lover
Lots of guys like the 6/Cylinder Torsion Bar and use a 90/10 Shock and seem to be able to get them to work good... But I will agree that there is sometimes a need to make finer adjustments as thing wear... That will be when you know you have spent your money wisely on a more tunable shock... One other thing to add... Make sure all the bar sockets are in good order and not cracked or worn to much... That will cause havoc for you later... Keep Us Posted...
04-09-2016, 09:59 AM
#25
The upper stops are destroyed, I believe the lowers are still in place . Will check .
Planning double adjustable's up front with new bars. May go up one size on bars. Go see what happens.
Woke up to snow covering the ground and cars thismorn.
Planning double adjustable's up front with new bars. May go up one size on bars. Go see what happens.
Woke up to snow covering the ground and cars thismorn.
04-09-2016, 10:37 AM
#26
Sorry, I was thinking upper bump stops and typed lower. Upper stops have to be completely removed to clock the torsion bars on installation. but you probably know that.
04-10-2016, 04:46 AM
#27
Actually I don't. Would appreciate your input. I read about the bars needing clocked but thought that was how they were made ,twisted off center from each other or something. ( on the ends). Each end doesn't line up with the other. Can't remember if you had to twist them after pushing it through the rear to make them line up. That's why they have to be on the proper side, they only flex one way , I think it supposed to twist in. But not sure.
04-11-2016, 05:54 PM
#29
Ok, i'll watch out for that. Thanks. Really want to get these right. It's a pain to keep adjusting and seems we couldn't find their proper preload. We more than likely didn't have them clocked right, no doubt. Lol
