1971_charger

Pedal can only travel about 1inch, trying to push it further is impossible. Front to rear brake line was replaced. Brakes were bled. Noticed that when depressing the pedal, the resevoir in the master cylinder closest to the firewall had no activity. While the smaller resevoir squirted some fluid out( master cylinder cap was off. No leaks.) No brake booster. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It does have some stopping power but not much.

RacerHog

Possible bad brake proportioning valve... Or your got it off center? Welcome to the site....

1971_charger

Thanks for the reply and warm welcome to the site. Is there any way to test the proportioning valve? What do you mean by off center? Budget is limited so if I'm buying a new part, I have to be pretty sure it's what i need. Proportioning Valves aren't the cheapest.

RacerHog

Yes it can be tested.. and possibly reset
Valve might be off center... and might just need to be reset...
Yes those are Pricey..


It's a little hard to get an understanding here on line.... Maybe look at youtube or read a shop manual for a better understanding on how these work and if you feel confident enough to tackle the task?
With that said.... When you say that you replaced brake lines and blead the system, But now only 1/2 of the master cylinder is working, (when all things may have been in good working order prier too all that work?)... That leads me to a failed Proportioning valve...


If you really are sure you don't have a failure in the rest of the system !!!!!
Crack the opposite side of the lines on the valve and see if it will reposition it self back to center?


WHAT EVER YOU DO.... DONT CRASH OR GET HURT...

1971_charger

Brakes were stiff before the line was replaced. The front to rear line had rotted out. Both drums are engaging completely. Gonna try to reset the proportioning valve tomorrow. I feel confident enough to do it. Cracking the nut on each line for the right and left disc brakes is all i have to do to try to reset it or only one side? Uploaded a picture if it helps.

RacerHog

Also Once you have line cracked open... Check to see if on the (Down Side) there might be a button to assist in re-centering... However, That look like it is one of the stock OEM ones... They dont have the button I dont think. but check.
Good Luck hope it does not fight too hard...

1971_charger

Both of the nuts are seized. Don't wanna break the dam thing. Would it be ok to torch em? I don't want to melt the proportioning valve. I emptied the larger portion of the master cylinder and put some clean fluid in. Was some sediment on the bottom. I stepped on the brake to see if anything changed. The larger side did squirt a small amount of fluid. Pedal is still stiff.

RacerHog

Ok..Dont mess with the valve for now then... Let check a few other things.... Try cracking all the bleeder screws and see if the pedal travels to the floor? Might just be some stuck wheel cylinders????

1971_charger

The wheel cylinders would affect the front disc brakes?

Iowan

Pistons in the calipers might be stuck.

Brake hose could be bad.

1971_charger

I'll check the pistons in the calipers today. Doctordiff.com has some reasonably priced lines and hoses.

1971_charger

Calipers aren't stuck. Feels slightly better. Still stiff.

RacerHog

Rear Brakes set to tight?