Mopar Forums

Mopar Forums (/forums/)
-   Chassis, Suspension, and Brakes (https://moparforums.com/forums/f83/)
-   -   Hard brakes (https://moparforums.com/forums/f83/hard-brakes-14313/)

Shrug 02-23-2013 04:31 PM

Hard brakes
 
OK, while I am waiting for my new cylinder head to arrive, I can work on other things.

So here is a brake question.

I have a 1966 Dart 270 Wagon.

It has manual brakes. Single chamber master cylinder.

The brake pedal only seems to travel a very short distance and it is also really hard. In other words I step on the brakes, the pedal moves a little, then I have to really lean in to it to get stop the car.

The brakes work well, but I do not remember having to use that much muscle to stop a car before. I have had plenty with manual brakes.

Any ideas what could cause that? Would changing the brakes to a dual master cylinder help the car stop easier?

Thank you!

mikerp76 02-23-2013 04:50 PM

change it to a dual circuit master cylinder and change the prop valve as well. i kn mine is a little stiff as well. i have changed the master cylinder next step is to clean the prop valve and flush the system.

TVLynn 02-23-2013 04:58 PM

66 Front and rear drums probably doesn't have a portioning valve Master could be corroded inside ? Frozen wheel cyl. Try bleeding the master first loosen the fitting and the pedel should go to the floor.. if the master is ok.. Jack the car up and rotate the wheel while someone steps on the brake, to see if each wheel is working.. Next I would flush the system I would also replace the rubber lines they mat be collapsed and blocking fluid flow

Dual master is a safety feature and a good idea. Make sure to get one for drums. Also if it is going to be a driver I would think about put disk brakes on it

mikerp76 02-23-2013 05:48 PM


Originally Posted by TVLynn (Post 98454)
66 Front and rear drums probably doesn't have a portioning valve Master could be corroded inside ? Frozen wheel cyl. Try bleeding the master first loosen the fitting and the pedel should go to the floor.. if the master is ok.. Jack the car up and rotate the wheel while someone steps on the brake, to see if each wheel is working.. Next I would flush the system I would also replace the rubber lines they mat be collapsed and blocking fluid flow

Dual master is a safety feature and a good idea. Make sure to get one for drums. Also if it is going to be a driver I would think about put disk brakes on it

single circuit probably don't dual circuit i believe does.

jacilynn_s 02-24-2013 11:16 PM

things to look for. Collapsed or kinked brake lines.

Chances are you got rust or crap into the system and it plugged a line somewheres. Open the bleeders on each wheel one at a time if the fluid goes out that line is good if nothing comes out that line has a problem.

A trick to bleeders is to heat them with a propane torch and cool instantly with an icecube. Repeat about 4 or 5 times then try to move the screw.

I have encountered this with the rear flexible line going to the rear axle being collapsed on the inside before. Change line and brakes work normally.


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:22 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands