5.2 318 alternator
#1
5.2 318 alternator
Hello, I have a 5.2 engine 318 years in 1995 mounted a prototype off-road, I can not understand how I should connect the two wires that give the command to the alternator, put a picture to better understand (are those called "field terminals") I I no longer use the 'original ECU and even the electrical system as standard.
Thank you.
Sorry for my not perfect language.
Thank you.
Sorry for my not perfect language.
#2
Mopar Lover
Hope this helps: http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
#3
The mopar alternator requires a separate voltage regulator There should be a wiring diagram on the site posted.. scroll down towards the bottom of the page
Last edited by TVLynn; 11-19-2012 at 05:32 PM.
#4
The new style alternators hook up the same as the old ones, IE everything 1970 and after. You can use a 70/ later alternator, and here's a diagram:
These are often INcorrectly called "dual" field but they are really "isolated" field, meaning that both ends of the field coil are isolated from ground
From MyMopar:
I have no idea what changes you made to your wiring. Essentially you need
Switched 12V igniton to either field terminal
The remaining field terminal (green) runs back to the indicated terminal on the regulator
And you need switched 12V igntition to the indicated terminal of the regulator
The regulator MUST HAVE a good ground. Scrape the back of the regulator, the firewall where it mounts, and use star washers. It's not a bad idea to use "antiox" grease available from any electrics supply, and Lowe's and Home Depot.
These are often INcorrectly called "dual" field but they are really "isolated" field, meaning that both ends of the field coil are isolated from ground
From MyMopar:
I have no idea what changes you made to your wiring. Essentially you need
Switched 12V igniton to either field terminal
The remaining field terminal (green) runs back to the indicated terminal on the regulator
And you need switched 12V igntition to the indicated terminal of the regulator
The regulator MUST HAVE a good ground. Scrape the back of the regulator, the firewall where it mounts, and use star washers. It's not a bad idea to use "antiox" grease available from any electrics supply, and Lowe's and Home Depot.
#6
Not knowing where you are located, I cannot be specific
The regulator in the drawing is basically any Chrysler product car or truck made in 1970 or after. I'm not sure when they stopped using it -- it would be whenever the regulator became integrated into the engine computer sometime ? in the 1990's
If you are in the U.S. ANY parts store should have one in stock.
In fact, with wiring changes -- such as grounding one field terminal, you can use almost ANY external alternator regulator, including Ford
For the early Mopar regulator, which covers up to and through the 1969 models, you would ground either field, and hook the remaining field terminal to the regulator, ground the regulator, and hook the IGN terminal to switched ignition.
Ford hookup. What is not shown is grounding one of the two field connections. Basically, you run
I not used
A direct to battery
S switched igntion
F Field
What I'm trying to get at is that there are several ways around this problem.
The regulator in the drawing is basically any Chrysler product car or truck made in 1970 or after. I'm not sure when they stopped using it -- it would be whenever the regulator became integrated into the engine computer sometime ? in the 1990's
If you are in the U.S. ANY parts store should have one in stock.
In fact, with wiring changes -- such as grounding one field terminal, you can use almost ANY external alternator regulator, including Ford
For the early Mopar regulator, which covers up to and through the 1969 models, you would ground either field, and hook the remaining field terminal to the regulator, ground the regulator, and hook the IGN terminal to switched ignition.
Ford hookup. What is not shown is grounding one of the two field connections. Basically, you run
I not used
A direct to battery
S switched igntion
F Field
What I'm trying to get at is that there are several ways around this problem.
#7
Thanks, I live in Italy,
today I found a regulator tractor with two wires, I connected one terminal of the alternator to ground and the other I connected to the regulator
it seems to work...
today I found a regulator tractor with two wires, I connected one terminal of the alternator to ground and the other I connected to the regulator
it seems to work...
#8
Super Moderator
The picture you showed is a Nippon Denso alternator just like the one in mu 89 Shelby Dakota. One of the field wires is ignition on and the other monitors the ignition voltage to regulate the alterntor. There is no external voltage regulator needed on that alternator. Mine is a 120 amp model.
#10
Super Moderator
I looked in my service manual buddy and one field comes from the ignition switch battery side and the other comes from the smec or computer so you were wrong also. Two wrongs don't make a right. There is no voltage regulator in my truck nor his vehicle.
#12
The voltage regulator, my friend, is IN the computer, and it works exactly as I said earlier. It is controlling the field "to ground" exactly as the 70/ later Mopar units did.
#13
Super Moderator
#15
Hello, I have a 5.2 engine 318 years in 1995 mounted a prototype off-road, I can not understand how I should connect the two wires that give the command to the alternator, put a picture to better understand (are those called "field terminals") I I no longer use the 'original ECU and even the electrical system as standard.
Thank you.
Sorry for my not perfect language.
Thank you.
Sorry for my not perfect language.
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