josehf34

My '74 Fury original alternator is very tired, was rebuild like 4-5 months ago but some problems persists specially with engine idling, so I bought a new Delco CS130 (GM CS130) 105 Amp and I'm trying to do my best fitting this newer alternator on my car.



The original alternator bracket didn't work so I screwed an additional little bracket to the original one to served as an extension and worked fine (I'll post pics tomorrow )

My problem right now is that my car is a factory A/C and the alternator pulley isn't properly aligned with the A/C compressor pulley, any idea how can I fix this? or maybe somebody knows about an aftermarket bracket for this application

I'm going to post some pictures to give a better idea of my problem

RacerHog

I used one some years back for awhile.... I looked, but dont have any pictures to share. But it can be made to fit... With some shimming and a longer adjusting arm.

josehf34

I uploaded some pics, please check them in the attachments and sorry for bad wiring but I was testing the alternator.

Everything works well, the charge with engine idling is great but I'm still worried for pulleys alignment

RacerHog

Looks good to me, from what i can see.... Make a tube spacer and use a couple washers and run it.....

moparted

a lot easier to use a mopar alternator

josehf34

I know and has a more original look... but this unit compared with the stock works great, no more dim lights while idling, I always have between 13.5 and 14 volts at idle, starter works faster and I can delete the external voltage regulator from wiring

I think I need a bracket extension, something like this:


My idea is move the alternator away from the valve cover and by this way have more room to properly align the pulleys

RacerHog

josehf34

Finally my alternator if properly installed.

I had to re-clock the alternator and add a second bracket behind just for extra strength. I didn't modify any original bracket with this upgrade, I think is great for who wants a better alternator but doesn't like the idea of mess the original engine brackets (just like me)

I think this upgrade can be alot easier in a car without A/C. Would be great if this thread can be useful for someone else

RacerHog

What did you do for wiring? Add-ons... Reg. Delete? ECT.
Also Do you remember what parts were used? as in the approx. length of the belt and what the extra bracket was off of ?

I am sure this will help folks out... Great Job....

josehf34

I have more time now so I'm going to try explain how this conversion was done.

The alternator is a Delco CS130 105amp, there are two versions of this alternator, one has PLFS connector wire and other has PLIS connector wire, If I'm right the difference between both is the order and use of each wire. My alternator has de PLFS connector wire so I'm going to explain how it's wired.

First I have to bought a pigtail for this alternator to start wiring everything, this is the pigtail, I bought in the same store where I bought the alternator and is a very cheap part



I used this image as guide but did a few modifications


Modifications:
1. The pigtail red wire shouldn't go to the BAT+ terminal, this wire is for the remote voltage sensing unit so if you wire it to the BAT+ terminal is going to work wrong because there're voltage drops between alternator and battery. This wire should be wire to the 14V junction, most cars has one, this is where most of the electrical system get the power to work

You can find more information about this on MAD: http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml


I didn't find my Fury's 14V junction (I didn't mess too much with the factory wiring) so I wired the voltage sensing wire before the ballast resistor and worked fine.

2. The Field+ wire must be wire to a key switch 12V source, I used the IGN1 blue wire from the stock wiring. Is recommendable to install a resistor between both wires, I used a 330 ohms one and I read the maximun ohms recommendable value is 500 ohms

3. Regulator and Stator wire are optional, I didn't use them but if someone wants to use a battery charging warning light the Regulator wire should be wired to it


About brackets... My car has the factory A/C compressor and I didn't want to modify the original brackets so this is what I did:

1. Re-clock the alternator, in my case I did this because the alternator wasn't well mounted, the BAT+ terminal was hitting the valve cover

2. Mount the alternator in the original bracket and install proper washer or tube spacer

3. In the lower alternator bracket I added a second little bracket I found in a Chevy Blazer by this way it will add more length to the original bracket and will help to tensioning the accesories belt

4. I Changed the accesories belt to a DAYCO 15550 55" length, I think will be better to use a 15555 or 15556

I'm going to take better pictures of the brackets used tomorrow and I'll post them

I really recommend this upgrade, the mopar alternator is great and is the straightforward way to replace a tired alternator but honestly I'll only used one of them again if I'm restoring a car to "show" condition. The delco alternator has 105 amp, I've 13.5V - 14.0V at battery ALWAYS, no more dim lights, starter works faster, I think the extra time for install this alternator is really worth it

RacerHog

I do agree that these charge better than the Chrysler unit in the lower RPM range..... Thanks for sharing Jose......

GotScout

I like what you did,,, it is similar to taking a 10Si and making it a single wire unit.

Good job.