ground
#1
ground
Vehicle: 69 Road Runner non-rallye gauges
Recently replaced the circuit board on the instr. Panel. Does the circuit board need to be
grounded to the body of the instr. panel?
Recently replaced the circuit board on the instr. Panel. Does the circuit board need to be
grounded to the body of the instr. panel?
#2
Absolutely and this is a problem for these old girls. Look over your circuit board and find a ground screw. You can easily trace the wiring just by looking at it. Add a length of wire for a pigtail that you can bolt to a good ground like the column support
Wise to check these out. Been 40 years since I worked on a '69 so not all of this might apply, but things to check
1......The forementioned ground
2......All the pc connector pins. These get loose. Repair, solder them after cleaning
3.....On my 67 the brass finger contacts for the instrument limiter were NOT making contact with at least one of the board traces. I had to solder jumpers across
4.....the studs / nuts lose contact for the gauges. Loosen / tighten them several times to "scrub" clean
5.....Pay attention to the ammeter or bypass it. Some of these are not even really rivited together, so if the nuts holding the studs get loose, the whole thing gets hot and loses contact
This is the back of my Dart cluster. Here is where I jumpered across the IVR contacts. the blue /wh wire is power coming in "switched ignition" as my PC board connectors were in REAL bad shape. The black is a ground pigtail.
Scrape the coating off the board with a sharp xacto, or even a "sharp" flat screwdriver. Tin with proper solder, tin the wire, and solder it on
Wise to check these out. Been 40 years since I worked on a '69 so not all of this might apply, but things to check
1......The forementioned ground
2......All the pc connector pins. These get loose. Repair, solder them after cleaning
3.....On my 67 the brass finger contacts for the instrument limiter were NOT making contact with at least one of the board traces. I had to solder jumpers across
4.....the studs / nuts lose contact for the gauges. Loosen / tighten them several times to "scrub" clean
5.....Pay attention to the ammeter or bypass it. Some of these are not even really rivited together, so if the nuts holding the studs get loose, the whole thing gets hot and loses contact
This is the back of my Dart cluster. Here is where I jumpered across the IVR contacts. the blue /wh wire is power coming in "switched ignition" as my PC board connectors were in REAL bad shape. The black is a ground pigtail.
Scrape the coating off the board with a sharp xacto, or even a "sharp" flat screwdriver. Tin with proper solder, tin the wire, and solder it on
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