73'DartKid

Hello everybody. Its been awhile, but I've finally got the somewhat thumbs up from the wife. So I am on a extremely tight budget, something like a no money for the car budget. So...that being said, I am not looking for advice on what to go and buy instead of what I have bought, I know that what I have CAN work, just not sure which direction to go.

Ok so here we go. My car is a factory 318 2-barrel car. I've recently went to the local pick-n-pull and picked up a 4 barrel 360 intake manifold that I'm having boiled out. Along with it I grabbed a late model carter thermo-quad. Now from what I've read, this is more than likely a 800-850CFM carb, now I've also read, if I drop this in the car and bolt it up, the car will most likely fall on its face. I'm not ready for the strip yet, hahha but I would like to see a little more getty up.

So my question is, can I jet the carb or adjust it down so that it doesn't damage my engine or make the car not idle or run well cold??

Also, just so you guys no where I'm at, I go to college, and just would like my car to be able to take me to school and back (2 miles), and the occasional cruise around town.

Thanks in advance guys.

ZombiePopper

If its a 800cfm TQ, then that is way to much carb for a 318, that said though, it would start just fine (different circuit), but you would have a bog, fuel smell, fouled plugs and dump gas out the tailpipe (your fuel econo would be shot).
You could shut the seconds. so you're only running on the primaries (front), basically it'd be like a 2bbl so it'd defeat the purpose of swapping the intake/carb and still potentially be to much carb.
All that said though, the TQ carbs are darn good carbs.
You might see if you can swap that carb for a smaller one (?)
Where are you located? Case in point, I think I've got a 500cfm 4bbl (edelbrock or carter I'll have to look) collecting dust on my shelf, if you're interested (?)

moe7404

i have said this many many times. EVERY thing chrysler makes is a SYSTEM. I.E. it ALL works cause the parts are a matched GROUP.. if you un do the system your out come will be less than hoped for. iam not saying you cant do some hop up. just dont out think your self.

73'DartKid

Yeah i'd like to pickup a 500-600 cfm eddy or old carter afb/avs, but they are just a little out of my price range at the moment. I paid around 50 bucks for the TQ so i could take that back and that would basically be my budget. So I'd mostly get a junker carb at that price.

I thought i've read somewhere that the TQ can work well because "Later model spread bores like the Carter Thermoquad and the Rochester Quadrajet are "one size fits all" carburetors designed to work on a range of engines with jet changes. They can get away with this because vacuum secondaries and air doors won't give the motor more air than it needs."

Original is at Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth LA (273-318-360) V-8 engine and carburetor performance upgrades http://www.allpar.com/mopar/4bbl.html#ixzz2mbl2Q1Zm
Follow us: @allparcom on Twitter | allparcom on Facebook

But to answer your last question, i'm located in good ol' california.

ZombiePopper

You're correct, that's one of the reasons they're such good carbs, they provide what the motor needs and no more, but some of these carbs use a two part vacuum AND mechanical second. set-up. but its important to keep in mind that the flow rate on that 800cfm pretty much guarantees that your seconds. will probably never open, even at WOT, which again, defeats the purpose of even swapping to a 4bbl in the first place.
But if you're interested in trading for my 500cfm, pm me and we'll go from there.

TVLynn

It will work ! You just need to adjust the secondary air valve so the secondaries don't open too soon. SO you will only be using 600 for that 800 cfm Did you get the transmission linkage too ! Really on a budget ? Get a Carter #9636 Ebay

Coronet 500

Excellent choice of manifold, it is a very good design too often over looked because of weight.

TV has it right, 69-72 manual shows 1/2 turn up to 1 1/4 turn spring tension. I ran one off a 1974 440 on my 1970 318 and with a little tuning worked very well.

Your camshaft will hold you back but nothing like that tromp, kickdown a gear and waaaaaaaaa noise. With the air cleaner lid upside down.

TVLynn

Also use the intake gaskets that match your heads.
You can adjust the Air valve with a pair of screwdrivers-- Caution if you loose the spring tension you will have to take the carb apart to fix it
Don't mess with the power valve -center piston unless you have an exhaust gas analyzer They were lean from the factory, early start of emissions

ZombiePopper

I'd be surprised if a 318 will ever open those seconds. even at WOT IMO. 600cfm is plenty for a stock 318, and that's just the primaries.
As I already said, yes, it will work (once adjusted), BUT, why bother swapping anything until you have a plan/budget to mess with it.
Just my 2cents.

73'DartKid

Thank you guys for all your advice. Really appreciate it. BUT there has been a new development as of a couple hours ago. Me and my grandfather (he helps me alot with the car.) We were at a somewhat local salvage yard that has all kinds of old mopars, really cool to see and sad at the same time, but anyways we looked and looked, couldn't find any old avs's or afb's saw one thermo-quad and about 15 bigger carter 2 barrels. So after being super bummed on the drive home, my grandpa said to me "hey, I bet so and so might have something out at his house." So we get to so and so's(just gonna call him that). Apparently he was great friends with my family and remembered me as a baby. We tell him that were looking for an old carter or edelbrock, something small. He looks around for a bit and finds an old AFB in a cabinet, hands it to me, i say well what do I owe you, he says, a cold beer.

So that being said, I'd like to use this carburetor now, will it work better? Also, what should I look up as far as a rebuild kit? Like on orielly or auto zone? Basically what car had these carbs specifically.

Thanks again guys.

Coronet 500

Might want to print this one: http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/carterafbtuning.pdf

TVLynn

Old AFB is probably off a Chevy You may still need an adapter lever for the trans linkage.
IT should have an ID number stamped into the base. Personally I think the Thermoquad would be better..

73'DartKid

yeah when googling the numbers it says it is for GM. It is a 9625SA.

73'DartKid

I'd like to use the AFB, it just seems more like what I'm going to be needing for the near future, correct? I mean my plans for as of right now (within the next month or so) are just going to be getting the car cleaned up, installing the 360 manifold, installing the Carter AFB, getting a decent set of headers (nothing crazy), and running dual exhaust out the back. (maybe a cam for christmas?doubtful.) From what I've read and the people I've talked to, the AFB is a great match for the 318s when they're stockish.
That being said, I want to rebuild it, and I need the correct linkage for it. Does anybody know of a kit of some sort? From what i've seen the afb is basically a edelbrock performer correct? would a kit for those work with my afb?
Again guys, don't think I'm not taking your advice, I'm just trying to do what I feel is best too. I really do appreciate all your guys' input.

Coronet 500

https://www.holley.com/20-36.asp

http://www.demoncarbs.com/124007.asp

Archer

kid -

Back to the TQ for a sec.
Are you planning on doing anything else to the engine?

I had really good luck with a TQ on my 318, but it had 340 Hi_perf heads, cam, headers, upgraded ECU, usual bolt ons.

With everything else bone stock you might be able to get it to work by tweaking the secondaries, but it would really like a little more breathing power from the rest of the engine.

However, if the price was right -- that's always a factor too.

Archer

73'DartKid

So again. I've changed my mind. After talking to few local legends. Ahhaha I'm going with the TQ, for now. I'm gonna post some pics in the am of how it's going. Oh btw, any tips/tricks on removing the entire AC pump/unit? I've noticed it's gonna be a little tricky getting to one of the bolt heads to keep it still when removing the nut. My impact took a dump. Thanks again guys.

73'DartKid

So guys here is a picture of the manifold installed. I just gave it a amatuer paintjob with some Chrysler blue, notice where the exhaust ports are, see the half moon kind of ports open. Is this correct?? I don't recall on the original manifold because it was all blended together with gunk. When looking at my old manifold it most definitely doesn't have a higher rise to it. Also I took off all my A/C lines and compressor, I wan't able to get it to part ways with the bracket,(don't have a puller) going to torch off the excess of the bracket anyways. Also, I pulled a bunch of the vacuum lines, I want to clean up the engine bay. Do you see any issues with this? I mean its a lot of smog BS anyways,right? I just want to use the bare minimum vacuums.

TVLynn

The opening in the head is normal the other in the manifold is the EGR port. Make a plate to cover it.. USE The proper carb gasket IT is an insulator.
DON'T worry it will work. I had a 79 Van 318 with a TQ did just fine. DON'T over tighten the screws and mt bolts. The only problem may be the throttle shafts, they do wear but are repairable with new bushings.
You might try using a screwdriver to jam the bolt from turning ? Other wise as I remember a 5/8th course bolt will pop the clutch off, no special puller needed

73'DartKid

So was I correct in assuming that I would be fine with removing most of the vacuums?? I was basically going to just hook up the purge canister...I just want the car to run smooth, it will never be smogged again, so I am trying to limit the amount of smog BS on it. Thanks guys.

73'DartKid

Alright guys. So I got the car mostly put back together, I think I may have to work the existing vacuums out a bit more, I tried firing it up 2 days ago, I would say it was mostly unsuccessful.
The carburetor linkage doesn't exactly matchup, but i think with a little bit of adjusting and tweaking I can get it to work, but in the meantime I was just manually throttling it by hand, I could see the accelerator pump working, as it was squirting some fuel into the carb.
That being said, I could not get the car to stay running, I could pump it, then turn it over, it would fire up and immediately die, as if it wasn't pumping fuel. Does it take awhile for the bowls to fill up? Is this the problem I'm having, the fuel pump is working to the best of my knowledge(it squirts fuel out when turning it over).
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

73'DartKid

Here is a quick picture of my "progress". Nothing to be very excited about...

Coronet 500

Any modifications gets me excited. Have you adjusted your 2 idle mixture screws on the front, counterclockwise 1 1/2-2 turns.

If the pump shooter is working then you have fuel in the bowls.

TVLynn

I don't see a hose to the PVC valve, egr not blocked Will not run that way !! Finish hooking things up

73'DartKid

I blocked off the purge canister, because I didn't see where to hook it up to the new carburetor, I didn't hook up the brake booster vacuum to the rear pvc. Or so I thought...and the egr is just plugged at the tip, is that not going to work?
Thanks guys.

73'DartKid

Haha yeah I'm happy to be turning wrenches on it, but I've got a long ways to go, but to answer your question. No I've yet to adjust the carburetor at all, I'm just trying to get her to run for a few seconds first. Haha

TVLynn

Where in Ca are you

Coronet 500

Your brake booster can go to that opening on top of runner #8. Your PCV hose from the valve cover can go to the large nipple at the carb front middle. The Charcoal Canister Purge Port is usually the smaller one beside it, depending on year.

Your EGR is open to exhaust crossover passage and intake manifold so covering both and with a gasket is a must. The "plugged at the tip" is likely the nipple that would normally have a vacuum tube attatched to it, so your OK there if I understand that description correctly.

The nipple on the valve cover air breather inlet would go to the air cleaner, to keep air born dust and debris out of it.

If those idle adjustment screws have the plastic plugs on them, they can be cracked off for easier and more adjustability

73'DartKid

Ok, i'm gonna snap a few pics and maybe if you have time you can copy the pictures and put little arrows and labels pointing to where i'm suppose to plug the lines to?? also, I broke the PCV valve on the valve cover on accident, I think I could still use it till I can get a little chrome one or something. Thanks for your guys support through this.
OHHHH!!! and P.S., I got the car to start yesterday, apparently I had to much fuel line.....i guess, I snipped it to the correct length, and it started running, eventually died after about 20-30 seconds, sounded OK. Definitely need some adjusting, lots of smoke out the pipe, could be oldish gas too, but sounded better than before the upgrade.
I couldn't get it to start again afterwards though, the manifold I got has an additional hole that I didn't account for, think I need to plug it with a bolt or something??
Anyways, thanks again guys.

73'DartKid

Here are some close ups of the carb...starting from the front.

Here is the driver side rear of carb...

Here is the EGR valve, plugged off with tape at the end, if this is correct, I can put an actual cap on it...

This is that extra hole in the top of the manifold I was talking about, after the car ran for 30 seconds, when I went to start the car again, a small flame came out of this port(so says my friend, I was cranking the car)...what should I do with it??

Here is another vacuum deal, not sure what its called, but I think I'm missing something, isn't this where the vacuum for my automatic tranny should go?? There use to be 3 things hooked up to it, now none. Idk...

Thanks guys, hope you can help me out here, need the car running soon, would like to get it going for Christmas cruisin'.