help hydraulic clutch for 833? bad z bar

1cerberus4u · 04-14-2008, 05:55 PM

Hi all:

I'm sure this is an old issue, but I have a 69 with a 400 big block and a 4 speed. Had some guys brighter than me look at it at Carlisle and they said that the bell housing and z bar are wrong for the car/application.

my issue is the car really grinds going into gear and changing gears (not all the time, but most of it)

They suggested to convert to a hydraulic system

has anyone down this and is there a kit out there to do it. ( I did see one for Keisler, but I also see that they don't support 4 speed stuff anymore)

Thanks!!!

440roadrunner · 04-15-2008, 06:06 PM

A rant and rave from the nearly elderly
Hydraulic clutches are a pretty radical departure for something as well-known and widely used as the Mopar clutch linkage

First, get a friend and troubleshoot what you have:
take a look under there while someone works the linkage. Visualize the angles as the linkage operates, and see if you can determine if some angle is so bad that it restricts travel.

For example, any of the levers that are angled far away from a 90 angle to a pushrod at some point are losing travel, because you have effectively reduced the length of the lever.
Also be VERY suspicious--I once had a tube/lever crack a weld, and was actually rotating the tube without moving the lever. Pull things apart and inspect the ball pivots and bushings, and watch them CAREFULLY for movement.
How about motor mounts? If you have worn/ loose mounts, that could be causing problems.
I once had a cover which had gathered a bunch of driven disk material jammed between the cover and pressure plate. You could jam you foot to the floor, and the press. plate would not release enough--it was being "blocked" to the rear by the junk in the cover.
Generally, my Mopars always had WAY enough travel. In a couple of my cars, I actually modified the return pad/ and put a stop bolt under the dash to REDUCE the travel, so if you linkage is properly set up, you should be able to get plenty.

1cerberus4u · 04-18-2008, 06:55 PM

440

Thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention that this car has a Fab'ed solid alu plate that holds the front of the motor. by my best guess the engine sits up about an inch from stock (but that may be inaccurate as the 67's never had a 400 BB in them.......

I plan to get under the car next week and take a closer look

Thanks!

04-14-2008, 05:55 PM	#1 (permalink)
1cerberus4u Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 2	help hydraulic clutch for 833? bad z bar Hi all: I'm sure this is an old issue, but I have a 69 with a 400 big block and a 4 speed. Had some guys brighter than me look at it at Carlisle and they said that the bell housing and z bar are wrong for the car/application. my issue is the car really grinds going into gear and changing gears (not all the time, but most of it) They suggested to convert to a hydraulic system has anyone down this and is there a kit out there to do it. ( I did see one for Keisler, but I also see that they don't support 4 speed stuff anymore) Thanks!!!

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04-15-2008, 06:06 PM	#2 (permalink)
440roadrunner Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 272	A rant and rave from the nearly elderly Hydraulic clutches are a pretty radical departure for something as well-known and widely used as the Mopar clutch linkage First, get a friend and troubleshoot what you have: take a look under there while someone works the linkage. Visualize the angles as the linkage operates, and see if you can determine if some angle is so bad that it restricts travel. For example, any of the levers that are angled far away from a 90 angle to a pushrod at some point are losing travel, because you have effectively reduced the length of the lever. Also be VERY suspicious--I once had a tube/lever crack a weld, and was actually rotating the tube without moving the lever. Pull things apart and inspect the ball pivots and bushings, and watch them CAREFULLY for movement. How about motor mounts? If you have worn/ loose mounts, that could be causing problems. I once had a cover which had gathered a bunch of driven disk material jammed between the cover and pressure plate. You could jam you foot to the floor, and the press. plate would not release enough--it was being "blocked" to the rear by the junk in the cover. Generally, my Mopars always had WAY enough travel. In a couple of my cars, I actually modified the return pad/ and put a stop bolt under the dash to REDUCE the travel, so if you linkage is properly set up, you should be able to get plenty.

04-18-2008, 06:55 PM	#3 (permalink)
1cerberus4u Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 2	440 Thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention that this car has a Fab'ed solid alu plate that holds the front of the motor. by my best guess the engine sits up about an inch from stock (but that may be inaccurate as the 67's never had a 400 BB in them....... I plan to get under the car next week and take a closer look Thanks!