86Dodgeman

I was working with my buddy to pull my 318 out of my 86 ram w150 for a rebuild and when we tried hoisting the motor out it was binding up on the passenger side. We looked underneath and the flywheel is BIGGER than the bell housing it needs to pass through to come out. The drivers side teeth of the fly wheel are already touching the bell housing and the pass side has a lip inside the housing that completely covers the teeth of the flywheel. I have no idea how to get it out. Am I missing something special I need to do? It's a manual so do I need to be in a certain gear? I don't even understand how they got it in as the trans shaft is still in the flywheel at this point so it is not like you can rock it back and forth to get around the lip inside the bell housing. Someone please help as I am out of ideas on how to get it out.

TVLynn

Put a jack under the trans and raise it up against the firewall That should unbind the trans so it will come out

86Dodgeman

Yea I finally gave in and picked up the chilton book for the truck. Apparently you have to removed the transmission, transfer case and what not to get the motor out and take the bolts out of the bell housing. The bolts on this model truck for the bell house are actually on the outside, so you have to essentially pull the bell house and clutch package out with the engine, then remove the bell house from the engine. Basically a lot more work that I initially expected, but will be worth it in the end.

TVLynn

Ah! the missing info 4 wheel drive makes a difference !

bigblock

He did say W150 in the begining.

Mr.4spd

Glad you got it beat. I've always pulled the engine/tranny assembly as a unit if it's a stick, and only separated the two if it's an auto. This was an interesting post, the factory sure did some weird things...

Coronet 500

You likely have an 11" flywheel which has vertical slots in the bellhousing for clearance, special for this smallblock application.

Dave E

I usually just unbolt the trans and support it anyway... makes for easier removal. More room to wiggle the motor when pulling.

86Dodgeman

That initially was my plan, but the truck is lifted. I already had to take off the front tires and put it on jack stands to lower the truck for my 1ton hoist to be able to clear the hood. We well see though. Cant finish the job until the weekend when I have free time.

Dave E

Please update with how much of a battle it is. I will be pulling the 360 out of my W250 that is lifted on 38's. If you find any good tips and tricks please share.

I had considered seeing how much work it would be to pull the front clip off the truck (grille, radiator support, bumper, etc...) and just come right out the front with the motor.

86Dodgeman

It is not that much more work than normal. You will need to pull the radiator regardless if you don't want to damage it in the removal. I disconnected all the regular stuff of the motor, took the fan off and the oil pan as well to give me the extra room on the bottom of the motor since the truck was lifted. If you have some blocks of wood (or center blocks), just jack up the truck and pull the tires and sit the axle on the wood blocks. Just make sure it is still high enough that the brake housing doesn't hit the ground and you should be fine.

The only extra work you have to do that you normally wouldn't do for just the motor coming out is disconnecting the clutch if it's a manual and unbolting the bell house from the tranny. You don't have to move the tranny back if you took the fan off as you can get the engine off the motor mounts, slide the whole motor forward in the bay to get it free of the tranny, they take it right out.

I got a little lucky as my motor mounts were both broken so they basically fell out of the way once I got the weight off the truck. (part of the reason I am pulling the motor anyway). I recommend picking up the Chilton's guide for the truck. It is about 28 bucks but worth it for some of the hassle I went through just to find out I had to pull the bell house with the motor.

Dave E

Cool... I already have the Haynes book on the truck but I may pick up the Chilton's as well. I have pulled the trans and transfer case once already when the release bearing on the clutch decided to disintegrate, so I have a good grasp of what all that involves. I will probably take advice and just drop the front of the truck down on blocks, stands, whatever supports it safely as low as possible.

86Dodgeman

I got the engine out today. It came right out once I got the bell housing unbolted from the tranny. Didnt have to move the tranny at all just supported it a little to keep it from moving up and down. Just make sure you pull the fan off and the radiator out as well. Didnt have to drop the oil pan but it was a tight fit. Once you get the engine out it will take a little finagalling to get the bell house off completely as it is a TIGHT fit. Also you have to take the fly wheel off depending on the engine stand you have. And be careful when you pull the engine your clutch plate is going to fall out once it is free of the spline for the tranny.