1975Powerwagon

Right now I have 19 in of vacuum @ 750rpm. That was the best I could get the engine set at.
Also the timing is set at 13btdc right now. Should I advance it more? I know I am asking lots of questions this is my first ever Mopar engine.
Im running an Edelbrock rpm air gap intake 2in spacer and 600 cfm Quick Fuel vacuum secondary carb.
Also have the Mopar performance dress up aluminum valve covers and air cleaner on it.
I would also like to put the HEI ignition on the truck. Does anyone know of a good write up for people that no nothing of electrical?

Coronet 500

Before adding more initial timing you need to know total timing so as not to exceed 36.

Knowing what rpm your total timing occurs is helpful for performance tuning.

If you internet search Mopar DIY H.E.I. you'll find all sorts of GM add ons you can put together yourself or there are multitudes of new style H.E.I. mopar distributors you could buy.

1975Powerwagon

Could you elaborate more? I not sure where to begin. On the timing part that is.

Archer

75PW -

Who set up the motor?

Seriously, it doesn't sound like there's much of a cam in there, and idling @ 750, if smooth may not be that far off.

Sorry, just not a lot of info to work with.

And btw - the Chrysler ignition boxes (stock, orange or chrome) actually do a pretty good job.

Archer

1975Powerwagon

The engine is a bone stock rebuild. It is a surefire engine. The engine idles very smooth. I will be playing with the distributor today. See if i can get a little more from the engine. So when doing the timing no more that 36 with vacuum advance? Or is that just the mechanical side? I was reading hat no more than 55 with vacuum. But seams like everything i read has a deferant opinion on how much timing.

DDodger

When guys "talk total" this is nearly always "no vacuum." vacuum advances as you say, up around 50, sometimes more

you need to (google piston stop) make sure th timimg marks are correct

determine how far the distributor mechanical moves. if this is factory smog distributor (anything from say, 69 and later) it nees to be recurved or replace with adjustable aftermarket

you want no more than 22 or so mechanical. this is crank degrees

Coronet 500

If you search you tube total ignition timing you'll get tons of info. This article shows the inside of the Chrysler distributor.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...nition-system/

The only down fall of it is having the weights and springs under the timing plate. First remove and plug vacuum advance tube rev it up to 3000 or so and see what your total is, you may need a timing tape or put small saw cuts or punch marks every 10 degrees.

When you know your total you can start moving the distributor to add initial and you should be done. With the cam you have you probably don't want the 15-20 degrees of initial which will need opening up the distributor and welding the slots like shown in the article.

RacerHog

650-750 RPM is good.....
Timing is in the safe zone...
The conversion to Electronic ignition....There are good kits out their.. Mopar, Pertronics, MSD ready to run, Proform. Nice upgrade when your ready...
Glad you got it running looks good....
Sounds like the guys here are leading you to a good fine tune with what you have..

Iowan

Curiosity is getting the best of me, why the two inch spacer?

1975Powerwagon

I was reading that to get the best performance from the air gap it needed to have the center divider milled out around 1in deep or you could add a 2in spacer. It was saying it gives the best flow of air and atomized fuel to the cylinders. I am going to run it with the spacer to get a feel with it on there and then take it off and see what the engine likes best. It was only a $20 part. So i think it is money well spent just to see how the engine performs with and with out it.

RacerHog

And I'm sure there was no problem with it all sitting under the hood....

1975Powerwagon

The top of the air cleaner still has 2in of space.

Archer

75 -

Not sure if you know this, but a single bore spacer will help top end (which you probably don't need), while a 4 hole spacer will help low end torque.

Archer

1975Powerwagon

I would much rather have the torque than the top end speed. So a spacer with 4 holes instead of just a big open spacer?

Iowan

A small 1/4" to 1/2" open spacer will help off idle tip in fuel atomization on a stock to mild motor with a two plane intake. A 1" or 2" spacer is used to move the power band up on say a 400+ hp. motor. Having said that it probably wont help or hurt a thing unless there is a stumble off idle.


The air gap is a good manifold.

TVLynn

spacer also helps keep the fuel cool in the carb

George Az

I have a very similar set up in my truck. I am running a Lunati Voodoo cam and a dual plane Edelbrock. I have 18 inches of vacuum. I idle at 900 and when in gear it sits nicely at 650. I have a 1 inch spacer and what it does for me is help starting in the heat. Think 100 degrees or better in July. I am 14 degrees in with no vacuum advance attached.

I am running a Proform distributor (same size as a D.U.I.). You can get them from Mancini Racing or Summit for under $300. No more boxes, coil, ballast etc.... It is basically a Chevy distributor up top with a Dodge bottom end. I like it. Two issues for install. On my intake I had to use a cut off wheel and grind the coil tower off the manifold. Otherwise you will have no room to rotate the diz for timing. And the stock oil pressure sensor was changed for a mechanical oil pressure sender. So I had no clearance issues. Now it will be tight to the firewall. On a car, it might not work without a little hammer time. In a truck it wasn't a problem for me. I like big plug gaps and this motor fires right up, I mean right up.

Two wires for hook up, one for power and one for tach. That is it!