67 Coronet RT 440 Engine/Trans Removal Help
01-03-2009 | 02:01 PM
#1
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67 Coronet RT 440 Engine/Trans Removal Help
I am new to the Mopar world and have mainly been a chevy guy all my life. I broke down and bought a 67 Coronet RT 440-4bbl. I am going to go through the motor and trans, or maybe just get a crate motor as the 440 in it now is tired and the 727 is leaking everywhere.
My question is, can I romove the 440 and 727 as a single unit and install the same way I have done in the gm cars that I have done? Or, do I need to remove the 727 in order to get the block out?
Is removal and installation as a single unit the best way to go with Mopars? I have heard that the 727's need to be gently mated to the block to avoid damage to the converter and pump.
Any help you can offer would be great. Any photos would be even more help. It does not look like there is a lot of clearance between the k-member and the pan to wrestle the thing out. Its all stock.
Thanks in Advance,
"New to Mopar Kirk"
My question is, can I romove the 440 and 727 as a single unit and install the same way I have done in the gm cars that I have done? Or, do I need to remove the 727 in order to get the block out?
Is removal and installation as a single unit the best way to go with Mopars? I have heard that the 727's need to be gently mated to the block to avoid damage to the converter and pump.
Any help you can offer would be great. Any photos would be even more help. It does not look like there is a lot of clearance between the k-member and the pan to wrestle the thing out. Its all stock.
Thanks in Advance,
"New to Mopar Kirk"
01-03-2009 | 04:56 PM
#2
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 935
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From: New Jersey
I am not sure about the space to swing them together, but you can determine this by figuring out how much space you gain by removing the radiator and fan, and if the cross member under the trans can be pulled as well.
01-03-2009 | 05:54 PM
#3
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,117
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From: Lynnhood, Wa
Engine and trans can be pulled together. B bodies are easier to do that in then an A body. B bodies have HUGE engine compartments.
To be honest though, I'd just take out the bell housing bolts and pull the engine out by itself. Then it's a whole lot easier to just lower the trans down underneath.
What will you be doing with that 727? I'd be interested in it if you dont want it.
To be honest though, I'd just take out the bell housing bolts and pull the engine out by itself. Then it's a whole lot easier to just lower the trans down underneath.
What will you be doing with that 727? I'd be interested in it if you dont want it.
01-04-2009 | 02:12 PM
#5
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: MICHIGAN
like blue says take the engine out first as it is easier to do it and you wont be hitting your fire wall, but also remember to take the torque converter bolts out also, and leave it with the trans or you can damage the pump 
01-05-2009 | 02:55 PM
#6
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I have a 67 coronet rt also and I have found that the easiest way to remove both the engine and tranny together is to remove the torsion bars then remove the 4 bolts that hold the K-member to the body. After you have done this remove the transmission cross member and finally remove the A-arm from the body. After you do this than you can jack up the car or use a lift and the whold front suspension including the tranny will come out from under the car as one peice. And then just reverse this method when you are done it was too easy with my R/T.
01-05-2009 | 02:58 PM
#7
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Oh sorry I forgot to mention that the engine will still be connected to the K-member and the tranny will still be connected to the motor. I wish that I had some pics to post with this but it really is the easiest way to remove it as a whole unit. There is no worry about scratching anything because it will all come out from the bottom. This is how alot of mopar people do it.
01-05-2009 | 06:56 PM
#8
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From: New Jersey
I was going to do that with mine but all the stabilizers would have been in the way as they go through the k-member in my Cordoba. I have yet to remove the trans and am assuming that is going to be interesting as I have the car on 4 ramps and have no trans jack.
01-06-2009 | 08:35 PM
#9
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Thanks for all of the advice. Nice 67rt (my67rt). I pulled the motor and left the tranny in. I am going to lift the car and drop the tranny out the bottom.
I have never been one to post on forums, but this is a great place to exchange ideas. Thanks to everyone. I will post some pix when I get to work on it.
I have never been one to post on forums, but this is a great place to exchange ideas. Thanks to everyone. I will post some pix when I get to work on it.
01-06-2009 | 11:37 PM
#10
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 700
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From: central ,IN
hi capn, sid enote, before you drop the trans, use a wrench , put the open end on the converter face, then put the box end over a bell bolt hole, and using a nut and bolt and washers, tighten them down so the open end will hold the verter in place while in motion. after rebuild and when reassembling. place the trans on a car ramp so the bell end is on the rise. have someone hold the trans, then put the verter in the bell and hold the nose in 1 hand and using the other spin the verter to the right. youll feel it drop , then reverse direction, repeat till it drops again, then reverse and do it again a 3`rd time. when the verter drops the last time it is seated on the dog teeth. or drive teeth for the pump. if it doesnt drop the last time keep spinning it till it does. or when you tighten bell bolts to the block. itll snap the dog tth. and ruin the verter, and the pump. when mated together. blk. trans. and you start to tighten the verter bolts to the flex plate. you will see the verter pull forward over a 1/2 inch. this is norm. hope that this helps.
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