68' Charger Frame Rail Replacement & more
 

I took one of the rails out, now I need to put the new ones in, one at a time. Already took measurements, just need to replace other things to attach the frame rail to. The bottom of the picture shows the footwell panels, I need to replace those. And the rear valance needs to be replaced also. I'm afraid if i take the footwell panels out, the car will bend and move. What should my course of action be? I'm also need to replace the trunk floor, rear floor, bottom of the quarter panels, and rear cross member. More information on how to replace frame rails would be great too. Thanks.

You are in trouble already.... That much work is done on a Frame Jig so all the correct measurements can be accounted for. your going to need a collision guide for frame and sheet metal at this point....

https://www.google.com/search?q=1968...g1aLiSp1qXM%3A

http://www.521restorations.com/index.pl?page=framejig

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/arn-...0-p-10495.aspx

http://www.chiefautomotive.com/vehicle-repair-data/

Unless you took all the measurements before hand.. It's going to be challenging to get all the panels and seem spot on.....

Welcome to the site... I'm not a collision guy.. but this just my 2 cents from what I know of the business...

Keep us posted and keep the pics coming... I'll help as much as I can....

Yes, I did take measurements before hand. That jig cost a little to much, is there some other way to do it? Thanks

Tom -

Once the uni-body geometry has shifted, you might be screwed, unless it can be "unshifted". Sorry, that picture doesn't look good.

The standard procedure is to weld in brace rods to various points on the vehicle before removing any structural components.

I would contact a restoration shop that does that type of work, before you try anything else.

Archer

God dammit, I was told just do one frame rail at a time and the car shouldn't shift. :/

It can be done without a frame jig, but you need to be very meticulous withh your attention to detail. All body gaps and panel fitments from the cowl back have got to be dead on. If your shop has a good concrete floor you can use it as a jig. I've seen cars welded to stands that bolted to the floor, frames built that way also.

Don't give up it can be done.

Tom Just go very slowly.....Sorry to get you all worked up.... But I just felt, You need to under stand that this is just like anything that is completed. And you might get discouraged of even be disappointed of the out come.
Lot of guys say... Oh just do this and just do that....
You should have seen the first 34 Coupe Chop job I got involved in..
Anyway... Looks like your into it now.... Support the car as much as possible.
Once you get both the rails back in the car and squared up.... Kleco the panels in and stitch weld them in place and keep on measuring for trueness.. Keep a close eye on the body lines and the door lines and well as hood and deck lid line fitting.. As Archer said..And Iowan.. Tack braces in to keep things from moving....Check twice and weld once.... :)
Good Luck.... Keep us posted.... :)

Ugh, I really want to complete this car. It would suck to throw this R/T away just because I was stupid and didn't do more research before I took that rail out. This car has so much potential, matching number engine and tranny, and electric windows. You never see electric windows on a 68 charger. Where are some key places I should support it at? Should I follow the measurement picture as shown above or should i follow the measurements I took? I'm stuck, don't know where to begin and don't want to ruin this car. I need as much information as possible.

Thanks for the help, really appreciate it.

Setting up the car level and well supported will go go a long way. You need the car level to find level in the parts your installing. It's just putting the body back together level and square making sure nothing moves on you in the process. I'd be carefulI how much more I removed before installing the atchment points for the frame rails.

I've done this type of work for forty years and had my share of oh #### moments.

I Agree..With.. Iowan on the supporting..
You can follow your measurements and use the others for reference.... But sounds like you might have what you need to get you where you want to go?

Now that you feel confident..... Get out in the shop and get a few more supports in and get them rails in.... ....
And dont forget to shoot us some more photos so we may make some suggestion for you....
Get-R-Done..... :)

Well, here's a photo of it before I took the rail out. The other one is how i'm supporting the car, 2 jacks of each side and the front still has the wheels on it. I also have a 68' Satellite so i could use that as a reference. Right now i'm trying to find out how much it moved then put it back to its original position then weld supports in different locations and put the new parts in.

Some advice would be great thanks and feel free to ask for more photos.

Tom -

I can't add anything to what Bob and Iowan said. Clipping the body panels on and tweaking things around should work, if you're patient.

The concern I have aren't the rails, it's the missing floor pans. It's called a uni-body for a reason. That's compounded a little by the fact that most uni-bodies that old weren't/aren't perfectly straight to begin with.

You're into it this far, ya might as well finish it.

Archer

I see.. If you look at the rail on the right you can see that the wheel well is still connected to it via a piece of sheet metal left from the floor. When I took the rail off on the left and disconnected it from the wheel well/floor panel it move outward just a bit. Maybe that's the only thing that moved, just that part of the car....

Tom -

That small outboard move would be the issue. But it is, what it is.

Thinking about it, the guy who told you if you did one frame rail at a time may have been sorta right, as long as the only thing that was removed was the frame rail. Just impossible to figure all outcomes. That's why the body shops are usually nuts about locking everything up before cutting.

Hindsight is 20/20.

Archer

Ok...Get the new rail up there and see how the fitment is... Tack it in place, and let us know how it fits....

First I gotta replace the rear valence and the foot well panels because the leaf spring mount would be the only thing holding it in place. I have all new parts, just need the time. Hopefully in the next day or so.