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rookie440 08-08-2010 10:41 AM

69 Charger starting issue
 
1 Attachment(s)
Im new to this and dont know much.my dad and i bought a 69 charger this summer , and after driving it enough , the battery went dead. the man we bought this from recharged it brfore we left and told us it would go out soon. it did. it stopped working in the parking lot of a walmart. my dad bought a battery and attempted to put it into the car. he messed something up, cause when he tried to start it , 2 things happend. 1. it didnt start. 2. the following part " torched". what part is this and what do i need to do to fix it

1966sportfury 08-08-2010 11:22 AM

that link was a dead end? can u post a pic?

dont understand how replacing a battery could fry anything, unless maybe hooked up backwards

bootsnbolts 08-08-2010 11:44 AM

have you had your alternator tested? you can get that done for free at napa, take it in and they'll put it on their machine....just be sure to run the test a few times, as you can get a false fail. i just replaced my alt for about $50, new. you shouldn't have to replace your battery unless the battery itself is actually defunct, if it charges properly and holds a charge, and everything looks full inside, it should be fine...save your money for an alternator.

i do not recommend having any of the chain stores battery test. they have NO idea what they are doing, 90% of the time, and they REALLY want you to buy a new battery.

also, if you are sure the battery is connected properly and you are getting big sparks, look for a short in your ignition system. start with the alternator, check your starter relay, etc.

please be careful. you can get a very big shock if you do not handle your battery grounds etc. properly.

the bf says if you're not charging check your voltage regulator.

MNMOPAR 08-09-2010 12:26 PM

Did the vehicle crank at all when he tried to start it after installing the new battery?

rookie440 08-11-2010 08:36 PM

sorry for the wait . had problems uploading the photo. the attached photo is the part that started to smoke.

1966sportfury 08-11-2010 09:30 PM

thats the bulk head for the wireing harness, the blue wire going to your relay is that the one that started to smoke? and i bet it only smoked when it was turning over correct? i dont think the bulk head is gone i would check to see if the relay is connected properly and look to see if theres any shorts behind the fire wall, (behind the bulk head)

rookie440 08-12-2010 09:57 AM

i saw some open wire with no insulation on the backside of the bulkhead, could that be it

1966sportfury 08-12-2010 04:54 PM

could be? is the plastic around the wire melted, or the wire black or green?

samuelcosmo76 08-12-2010 06:43 PM

oh wait look to the right of the connector....the wire is all burnt up....the blue one.

1966sportfury 08-12-2010 08:45 PM


Originally Posted by samuelcosmo76 (Post 52711)
oh wait look to the right of the connector....the wire is all burnt up....the blue one.

i think i pointed that out allready

rookie440 08-13-2010 09:22 AM

1 Attachment(s)
this is from the back of the bulkhead. sorry its fuzzy. it was difficult to get to from getting under the dash with all the other wires in the way of the bulkhead.Could the blue wire going in have a different color from it going out of the bulkhead into the interior 102_0502.jpg

1966sportfury 08-13-2010 11:29 AM

i cant realy see the wires, i can see a butt conector, yes its more than likely to have a diff color from 1 side to another

scotts74birds 08-13-2010 05:12 PM

Ahhh yes! The infamous, and pointless mopar ammeter! Rookie, this is one of Ma Mopars famous "gotchas"! Just a perfect example of a good idea gone wrong. The idea of the ammeter was to measure the "current" or "amperage" output of the alternator. Fine in idea and practice. But from an electrical standpoint, poorly executed! First off is the fact that all the alternators current is being routed through the dashboard, through multiple connections. Every connection is a possible point of failure. Second, the connection at the firewall is a "plug-in" style, or a "friction-fit". Poor idea for anything carrying that much current. Should have been a bolted connection. The best way to do it would have been to use a CT [Circuit transformer] that would read the current in the engine compartment, and then send the signal to a gauge calibrated for the step-down of the CT. Engineers designed it, accountants ruined it.
We have options though. Did the heat damage any other connections in the bulkhead connector? There are more.
Do you have, or do you need the schematics for your car?


No, I'm not an electrician. But I did stay at Motel 6 last night!

1966sportfury 08-13-2010 05:39 PM

[quote=scotts74birds;52796No, I'm not an electrician. But I did stay at Motel 6 last night![/quote]


lol WHAT?

rookie440 08-14-2010 07:36 AM

(on the backside of the bulkhead) I see a black wire that looks funny, theres a blue insulator thing on it and on both sides of the insulator it looks like braided silver wire, bare, than going past the bare stuff, there is normal insulated wiring. ill try to get more photos

rookie440 06-27-2011 08:09 PM

All is well, the blue wire has been replaced, as well as new SSBC 11in Discs up front have been installed. now it runs like a dream.


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