Drum to Disk Conversion
#1
Drum to Disk Conversion
Hello,
I recently purchased a 1972 Dodge Charger that desperately needs new brakes. I am going to convert from non-power drum to power disk brakes in the front.
However, the car has 14inch front rims and many of the kits I am seeing recommend a 15 inch rim.
Any recommendations on kits? Brands? And, am I out of luck because of the 14inch front rim? Has anyone installed a kit recommended for use with 15inch rim on a car with 14inch rims?
Thanks, Jake
I recently purchased a 1972 Dodge Charger that desperately needs new brakes. I am going to convert from non-power drum to power disk brakes in the front.
However, the car has 14inch front rims and many of the kits I am seeing recommend a 15 inch rim.
Any recommendations on kits? Brands? And, am I out of luck because of the 14inch front rim? Has anyone installed a kit recommended for use with 15inch rim on a car with 14inch rims?
Thanks, Jake
#3
I have found some kits that will fit the 14in rims and use ther stock spindles.
But, you bring up a good point. My car does have a mid range cam and has a bit of a lumpy idle. So, I may not have great vaccum at idle.
What are most people doing if their car did not come with power brakes or the engine is cam'ed? I am so used to driving cars with power brakes. What am I really giving up by staying with non-power brakes?
Thanks, Jake
But, you bring up a good point. My car does have a mid range cam and has a bit of a lumpy idle. So, I may not have great vaccum at idle.
What are most people doing if their car did not come with power brakes or the engine is cam'ed? I am so used to driving cars with power brakes. What am I really giving up by staying with non-power brakes?
Thanks, Jake
#5
The vacuum reservoir is a great idea. I had looked at the pumps, but I like the reservoir idea more.
I talked to a tech a Summit Racing and he said that installing manual disk brakes to replace the drum brakes was a mistake, it would take a lot of force on the peddle and they would "grab". I find it hard to believe that disk brakes would be any harder or require more peddle pressure then drums.
What would the drawback be to just installing a manual disk conversion kit and avoiding the whole power question? I found a nice four piston caliber and conversion kit that will fit my 14in rims, and they are manual.
Any thoughts?
Thanks, Jake
I talked to a tech a Summit Racing and he said that installing manual disk brakes to replace the drum brakes was a mistake, it would take a lot of force on the peddle and they would "grab". I find it hard to believe that disk brakes would be any harder or require more peddle pressure then drums.
What would the drawback be to just installing a manual disk conversion kit and avoiding the whole power question? I found a nice four piston caliber and conversion kit that will fit my 14in rims, and they are manual.
Any thoughts?
Thanks, Jake
#6
I found my dream kit at Year One. It's a nice Power disk conversion kit. Will allow me to run 11in rotors, 4 piston calipers, 9in booster, etc and keep my 14in rims.
Should be a fun project. I will post some pictures in 2-3 weeks once the parts arrive.
Jake
Should be a fun project. I will post some pictures in 2-3 weeks once the parts arrive.
Jake
#7
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 4
From: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
Chargers have some big wheel wells to fill. IMHO 14" looks kinda dorky. If you fill them with 14" and a big tire, then you are riding on balloons. 15" Has more rim choices too. JMHO. Dont want to see you paint yourself into a corner!
#9
I do plan to replace the rims, I agree the front rims look a little small, but have not decided which direction to take. I am basically looking to build a pro touring car, so rims and suspension will be key.
With 11in rotors and 4 piston calipers, I should be able to haul some pretty big rims to a halt.
Jake
With 11in rotors and 4 piston calipers, I should be able to haul some pretty big rims to a halt.
Jake
#11
For some reason I thought that '72 and newer Chrysler vehicles were equipped with disk brakes as a standard option. The least expensive way to convert your car from drum to disk would buy your parts from a junkyard. You'll need the spindles, calipers, rotors, brake hoses, and proportioning valve. You can get most of these items as rebuilt items from an auto parts store, but you'll need to get the spindles from a salvage yard. While you've got the front end apart to change the spindles, you might as well replace the ball joints and bushings, your car will ride like new afterward. Braided, or higher quality brake hoses will work better (no hose expansion when braking), and give you better pedal feedback.
#12
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 4
From: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
Good advice! I think there is a A-body conversion site out there also that you can use A body discs from 73 up for the B bodys. Ill get back when I can find it again. They also offer better alignment adjustability. Braided stainless hoses rule!
#13
Yes, Scotts, if you could find that site that would be great. I have ordered new stainless brake lines and a poly bushing kit for the front end.
It might not handle like a Vette, but it should tighten up the front end.
Jake
It might not handle like a Vette, but it should tighten up the front end.
Jake
#14
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 4
From: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
#16
I'm half way through converting the drums on my 1972 Satellite to disk brakes off a 1974 Charger and so far everything is working. The lower ball joints were different but the new 72 ball joints fit on the 74 spindles. I'm also changing the proportioning valve and all the steel brake lines. Year One has nice reproduction steel brake line kits. I also had to remove a welded bolt on the 1972 brake pedal bracket in order to install the power brake booster and I had to install the small pedal linkage that connects the pedal to the brake booster under the dash. All and all this has been an easy project.
#17
Well, phase 1 is complete, the front end is off the car, minus the lower control arms. Little nervous about the torsion bars. How hard are they to remove?
Found an interesting frame patch from the previous owner. Seems solid, but not very pretty. Nothing a little grinding and POR won't fix.
Heading to the parts store to have new ball joints pressed in and pick up some new tie rod ends.
Jake
Found an interesting frame patch from the previous owner. Seems solid, but not very pretty. Nothing a little grinding and POR won't fix.
Heading to the parts store to have new ball joints pressed in and pick up some new tie rod ends.
Jake
#20
Morning Superbee, thank you for the info. I bought the same kit along with all new ball joints, tie rod ends, poly bushing kit, etc.
Cars only been off the road for two weeks and I already dying to get it back on the road.....
Jake
Cars only been off the road for two weeks and I already dying to get it back on the road.....
Jake
#21
I'm looking at this kit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BK1209/
Wish I could read through the instructions before purchasing, as I'm not sure what I'm getting myself into.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BK1209/
Wish I could read through the instructions before purchasing, as I'm not sure what I'm getting myself into.
#22
cheap option
check this ebay auction out. I am not spamming. I am going to use these guys for upgrading my 67 coronet. You do not need to upgrade your spindils.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...ht_1174wt_1165
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...ht_1174wt_1165
#23
Good Evening... Been busy in the garage the last couple of weekends. Got the brake kit on, suspension tightened up. Just a few more brake line fittings to sort out and a quick trip to the alignment shop, and I'll be back on the road.
I will post some pics soon. The new calipers are incredible. 4 Piston monsters.
Jake
I will post some pics soon. The new calipers are incredible. 4 Piston monsters.
Jake
#26
I have a 68 GTX and I used MP Brakes. They have a complete kit for about $650.00 that includes new master cylinder and proportioning valve. Complete kit is better than trying to harvest parts. Anyone who says you hvae to have power discs has never tried MP Brakes manual discs. They stop easy and light foot pressure.
#27
drum to disk
I got the same problem , I want to change from drum to disk. I have a 1970 D100 pick up truck, the universal convertion kit from summit wont work , dont know what to do ..... HELP !!!!!!!
#28
I preferred the manual brakes on my 67 Coronet. I did the junk yard disk conversion. I also had a big cam, purple shaft 284* and with the power brakes the reservoir helped but if you used the brakes in traffic the vacuum boost did not last very long 2-3 applications
#29
#30
Once again I will say cheaper isn't always better. Find your front wheel disc brake solutions at SSBC. Did the manual disc brake conversion on my Dart and it stops fine with a 440 and manual front disc brakes.
http://www.ssbrakes.com/
http://www.ssbrakes.com/