My 1977 Chrysler Cordoba 400 CI Stroker build thread.
 

So I have decided to start building my stroker. the first step was to pull the old worn out engine. Done, check. now years later I am doing it. I got the engine back on the stand today to clean it up check it over and then we'll send it out to the machine shop.

http://i40.tinypic.com/fz7x2c.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/2nv58uw.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/24x13d2.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/b3u82q.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/2q8pooo.jpg

Sorry for the large images.

Please excuse the cluttered shop.

If your using one of the image storage sites such as photobucket they do offer you a option to resize them. Usually 840X640 is a good size to post. I tore my spare 440 apart yesterday and the pictures from my phone were so crappy I didn't post them. Don't forget to remove your fuel pump push rod. I would also remove all freeze plugs, oil gallery plugs and the two drain plugs on the side of the block. That makes sure that everything gets cleaned and all new plugs are installed.

Do you mean this part here?

http://i39.tinypic.com/o0s42c.jpg

Yep and I see you got your pictures under control. Your two drain plugs are on each side of the block kinda in the middle. You have
one oil gallery plug in the front by above and to the left of the cam bearing. A couple of oil gallery plugs in the back and one on top in the back by the oil sending unit. Knock your freeze plugs out with a punch close to one edge and try to flip the top or bottom out towards you. Pull them out with pliers. I found out the more you do the more your machine shop likes it.

Hay that's clean, you can see the floor. Make a note of where all of the plugs go. Don't trust the machine shop to replace them without checking to make sure ALL of them were replaced...

Mine does and there are two oil gallery plugs in the front...two on the back and two up at the oil sender unit...one should be open from removing it.

Guess I've been playing with V6's too long! Those cylinder bores look like they were made for coffee cans! Good luck on the build my friend!

That's true. Good info will do.
THanks
Thanks! coffee cans that is because this is what a real engine looks like, heehee.

Havent got a chance to play with it yet but will sometime this weekend hopefully. I'll take pictures as I go.

So everything that is circled in yellow I need to remove, correct?

http://i39.tinypic.com/90ppu0.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/2ih54x5.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/2gxdv5t.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/25u09j8.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/w8ma0h.jpg

Yep, they are all easy to remove. Use a punch and a hammer on the bottom edge of the freeze plugs. It will spin the top outside and you can pull it out with a pair of pliers. The front two are a little closer to the cylinder walls so go slow on them. Good pictures by the way. My machine shop loves when I do that because all they have to do is drive the cam bearings out and then it goes into the hot tank.

So the second to last image, the center plug is that a freeze plug or a plug for the cam?

FYI, there has been some talk about cam bores shifting, or being tight on Mopar BB's. I dont know if this is for B-blocks, or RB-blocks. Just something to ask your machinist to be sure. They recommend a line-hone of the cam bore before new bushings are installed.

Plug for a the cam. I just think it is there so they can install cam bearings from both ends. All is does is seal up the end of the cam shaft.

So anyone have some ideas on what kind of cam I should put in the engine?

Good info, I will be sure to ask about that when I get to the machine shop.

That is what I was thinking.

http://i39.tinypic.com/1z4xw1d.jpg
Not sure if the picture shows it but there is a bit of a jagged edge there. An old timer, drag racer, engine builder told me that it is a good idea that way oil can get back down to the bottom quicker. Also he mentioned to drill little holes in the curved parts by the lifter holes to allow oil to drain from that spot.

Any thoughts?

Grind away the extra casting on the holes is fine. I have never seen anyone drill any holes where you mentioned. But I don't race either.

So I went to the machine shop I am going to be using and they have a very good shop and they thrive on quality. they even have the option to assemble the engine. I may have them do that, up in the air I mean I have the tools but not so much the time. No sure may just do it myself get that self gradification that way. They also can order the cam and pistons that I will need. YAH!

So what is an A-type engine as described in these headers the first one on the page:

http://www.autopartsauthority.com/pa...versal:1%29%29

Those headers are for a small block. 5.9 liter is a 360.

I would grind down anything that acts a a "shelf". Oil will drip better off a sharp edge than a rounded one. Dont forget the the ole' skool trick of painting the lifter galley with "glyptal". I don't know about drilling holes.

Just off the top of anyones head, do you know where I can find headers for big blocks?

HEADERS
 

can I trust that these will fit?

http://www.holley.com/5115HKR.asp

REALLY?
 

So what does this do to help?

TTi

Tube Technology Inc.

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/index.htm

Confused
 

so that I am not confused I thought the cordoba is a B body and the only date on that site that fits my year is an M body???

I haven't read through all this article but is what it is saying about using studs for the head bolts is better that a bolt seem like a good idea to everyone?

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories...nd-valve-lash/

Call Mike Shumacher.

Studs are easier to torque equally than bolts. I have used them before with good results. They are overkill for a street motor.