...Torque Converter?
 

I just put the motor back in the car (680hp/614ft/lb) and I have to keep both feet on the brakes at stops which has stalled the engine more than once. Rather than turn up the idle I think a new torque converter is in order. Suggestions on stall?? Primarily street driven, occasional track visit for fun only. Also adding subframe connectors, driveshaft loop and 3" exhaust with electric cutouts. Current stall is original (727TF)

i don't know much about the stalling thing.. sorry dude, but i looked at your car, and i think i made a mess in my pants.

Stock is way too low. I'm thinking around 2500-2800 rpm.

I would call B&M and TCI as they make the best convertors (in my eyes) for your money. Tell them what you have and they will tell you exactly waht to go with.

N -

Depends on: your differential gear ratio, engine's power band and idle rpm (that info would help). You're probably looking at a 3000 - 3200 stall at a minimum. That WILL make you a little more sluggish in normal street driving as you'll be waiting for the TC to "spool" up, and normally I wouldn't recommend that for a street car, but I'll assume you're sure that's what the problem is.

You might also want make sure there's nothing else going on, even with a factory converter, you shouldn't bog you down in normal driving. You also said you're "ADDING" a 3" exhaust, what are you using now? Also has the 727 has been beefed up to handle that kind of HP.

Archer

Agreed!
I installed a Police Package 727 in my Mopar, years ago, that had the factory 10" 2,200 rpm stall converter. It worked great but, the first thing that I noticed, from the original trans with the original converter, is that when I put the car into drive, I didn't feel the typical engagement, or for lack of a better word, clunk into gear as the 10" converter wasn't close to the stall speed. I put this into a C body and it really worked out as this smaller converter allowed my big block to spin up before totally engaging.

I was just digging into my memory banks and.....

I think that the factory higher stall converter may have been an 11" converter rather than a 10" as I stated. And the standard converter is a 12" diameter.

ya i would have to say go with either a 3000-3200 stall converter from b&m, i used that in my old 72 roadrunner with 650hp and it worked great

Completely missed the 3" exhaust. That is 3", true dual exhaust with a cross section to help even out each side, right? You're not going to have both sides dump down into a single 3" pipe I hope.

Great looking car!

Talked to B&M and TCI, ended up with a 3100-3400 TCI 11" Street Fighter. They grilled me for almost an hour about the dyno sheets and the tranny configuration. It is a built 727. Archer, you were right on the bog down, it should not have been stalling out while braked, had to turn the fuel regulator up to 10lbs (had a faulty fuel pressure gauge out the box) to handle the twin 660 square bores. Still wants to leave but idles nicely at 900RPM's in gear 1000 in park. I am installing true dual exhaust from headers to (dual) tailpipes (currently 2.5") but did not consider the crossover for balance........should the electric cut-outs (3" Doug's Headers) be before or after the cross?

cut-outs after the x-over. they like to know everything about your ride dont they! but its worth it. even with that converter im sure you will notice the "creep" still,

Wouldn't the E-cut outs be BEFORE the X-pipe? Because they are supposed to be like "open headers" and getting the pressure out quicker.

Maybe I'm wrong..

blue -

I don't run cut outs and just dropped the exhaust pipes when I used to go to the track, but the idea of having them downstream of the X-pipe makes sense, as you still get the scavenging effect, without really increasing back pressure.

Don't know if think has changed over the years, but the idea of open headers wasn't the most efficient. The idea was to have the pipes long enough to cover the flame front. Some guys used to replace the full exhaust with short pipes off the collectors on race day. (I never tried it, though.)

Archer

i would have the dumpers after the x-pipe
you need the backpressure to keep the torque there

One day I would like to install E-cut outs on my car, but if I want to go faster at the track, I just run open headers. But I don't have an X or H pipe, just straight to the mufflers off the headers.

Thank you for the info :cool:

Back in the day, my dad had purple hornies that were bolted straight to his headers on his 340 GTS. Aimed torwards the ground that dumped off somewhere in the middle of the car.


sorry for the hijack :o

Good to hear that you are getting teh right TC. You'll love that 11" Street Fighter. They drill you for all that info so that they can make sure that you are getting the best product for your application and money.

If you are running a true, dual exhaust, then you can have the cutouts anywhere. If you have a X or H section, you should (but don't need to) have it after the section as the X/H section still helps to balance out teh pressure.

I'm sure that Mack can comment on these.