Changed Oil then...
 

Hey all- I need your thoughts and opinions.


So my fresh rebuilt 383 I've been runnin' through the break in time, using straight 30w Brad Penn break-in oil. It's what the rebuilders put in. I ran it per the recommendations.

I changed it this weekend to 10-30w partial synthetic, again Brad Penn brand. This again with the recommendation of the rebuilders.

As soon as I started her up again for the first time after the oil change, the oil pressure light flickered...flickered...then is steady on now. The oil level is spot on. I've read 4qts all the way up to 6qts. is the capacity, I went with 5.5 qts. Still, the oil pressure light is on.

WHAT HAPPENED??

Pull the distributor and drive, drop in your priming rod and give it a whirl (CCW) with a drill. Is there any resistance? Could be lots of things, but this is where I would start.

Remove the oil filter and fill with oil & try again. Pump has lost it's prime or has an air bubble

I Agree With the guys !!!

https://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-signs093.gif

bad sending unit???

Just a thought... I've changed my oil in my 383 several times over this winter for a variety of reasons..lol. I won't get into too long of stories.. Anyway, this one time (at band camp):laugh: I tried some synthetic at a recommendation. My 383 was not a fan and the oil pressure gauge was not a fan either. I don't have the light, just gauge, but the pressure was very low. Making me think I had to prime again. So I changed one more time going back to Rotella 15w 40. Liked it so much better, pressure came back to where it had been and no further issues. I won't be adding any synthetic again. Hope it helps, good luck..

Rotella all the way, I believe synthetic is a waste for a seasonal car anyway. My Charger sees 1500 miles a year (if I'm lucky!) and the oil gets changed every 800. I do use synthetic in my lawnmower though.

I use rotella in my Duster because it does have some zinc, but somewhere I read that they removed alot of the zinc from this oil also...? Has anyone heard that ??? I run Mobil 1 in my daily drvers but they also recommend it from my friends at Mopar...Bill

Did you test the oil Pump Yet??????

Castrol Or Mobil for me.... add Zink if you need it... Just don't add to much.

Thanks everyone, I need time and a warm day. Mother nature is being very bipolar this week in Colorado.

I have a sneaking suspicion it has everything to do with the oil type. Straight 30w which was used for the break-in oil, I'm guessing is thicker?

Why would the light come on indicating no pressure (if in fact that's what it is) RIGHT after I changed my oil?

I'm stumped folks. Will it hurt it if I go back to straight 30w?

I have not checked the oil pump...

I have not checked the oil pressure...

I need help locating where the damn oil pressure sensor is? Does anyone have a pic? Again i'm working on my 383.

sending unit should be on the top back of the block

Yes.. Like Lynn said... The back of the block up on top near the bell housing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1974-Do...-/370623209401

Once I thought it was the thinner synthetic, I drained the oil, bought a new filter, changed it out for the 15w - 40 and was fine. Been good ever since. Just a pain getting the filter out and then back in filled with oil! Good luck.

True... Can be Messy...:(

Bad sending unit! Thank you everyone for the help, tips and ideas.


Truly appreciated.

Glad you got it fixed now on to the dying on the road problem...Bill

I heard that the zinc was removed from Rotella now

Oh man. The dying on the road problem. I have been through the mud and back on this. BUT it is all fixed and running nice.


The exciter wire was not prompting the alternator to charge the system.

The ECU was bad.

I added a Solid State voltage regulator.

The ignition coil was also bad.

Well.... Hope it is happy now.... :)

Its hard to believe that the synthetic/mineral has anything to do with the oil pressure building up. Sounds like a sensor issue to me.


The 30W is thicker when its cold than a 15w40, but it quickly gets thinner as it warms up.


The synthetic makes sense if you run your engine hard. The 440 has only 5 quarts of oil, and if you drive it fast on the highway, the oil will get hot quickly. The synthetic will survive this better, and give you better protection. There is no need to replace it, even if you don't drive the car much. Have been using 15w50 M1 on my 440's.

need zinc? check this out. http://zddplus.com/