We're bagging a 62 300 & I wanted to know if I were to remove the torsion bars would that effect the control arm bushings? Looks almost like the torsion bars help keep the arm & bushing together.

 

Well, no answers on my previous question.

Here's some pics of what we got going on. I will post more pics later.

 

 

This is a tough one. With the adjuster at the back the only thing the bar would help at the front is to hold the inner and outer steels parallel and reduce wear at the bushing between them. All that said the front strut should hold it reasonably well for what you are doing. My biggest concern would be if you are lowering and raising with air beyond the normal travel a pressed in rubber bushing will likely tear. Usual procedure for ride height adjustment is to tighten the large nut last to have the rubber bushing relaxed and in the middle of normal travel. This is my best guess based on how the Chrysler suspension works.

 

Don't have the answer but, that '62 is bitchin'!

 

We tightened the lage nut on shaft coming threw the front side of the engine crossmember where the car would set a little lower than 1/2 way down the suspension cycle. If the rubber bushing doesn't hold up guess we'll have to replace it with some custom. The only other thing I can think of would be to make a double shear mount for the control arm & use a polyurethane end link bushing on the control arm.

 

Thanks. She's 1/2" off the ground. Lowest of the old skool 300s I've seen.

 

I am 100% sure your car is not a J Body...but cool just the same.

 

To me ? It needs some kind of strut rod to support the lower control arm movement

 

LOL! Your right. I did a quick search on line & that's what I came up with. Guess it needs to be in the "Pre 62" forum. If the moderator would move it to the correct forum I might get more response.

 

The strut rod is still there, you can see it in the last pic I posted.

I've done this set up before, Chevrolet Corvair front end.

 

I like the look of that lower attachment and may be the safer way to go with a heavy car.

 

Yeah, that's a double shear mount. It's also an eccentric bolt / hole where the alignment is set.

 

I didn't see the strut rod at first.. If you are concerned about the control arm bushing I would go Poly urethane so it will have free movement

 

Ended up putting the torsion bars back in today. We put them back in just to assist the bags, it lifted a lot slower in the front than the rear. I tightened them down with a speed handle, that's all the pressure it needed to even out the front & rear lift speed. I forgot to take pics of the rear suspension while the car was up on the lift, I'll post pics of it from the ground.

We've got a 65 1/2 ton Dodge on the lift now. We're lowering it, installing a dropped the I-beam up front & raising the rear spring hangers with front & rear disc brakes. I'll post pics of that one too once we get it done.

 

if its a REAL 300 1962 i think its a C body. if its a lettered 300 ie "H" it should have a good value. if its 4 door it is NOT a lettered 300. a lettered 1962 H will have a 413 engine with cross ram intake.