Hi, I'm Steve, and I'm an alcoho... oh, wrong meeting!
 

:-)

:hello: Custom IHC Scout builder, :uzi: professional Bronco hater.

"Got Scout" is my company.

Personal ride:
1973 IHC Scout II
Dodge bored out 318 V8
R-Qjet
Ebrock Performer intake mani
Roller rockers, Schneider racing cam

... then the crash. (60 into concrete light pole.)
All complex and custom wiring was on passenger inside fender... and that vanished in the crunch!

Rebuild and in re-wire currently, SOLID advice welcome.
Dual RedTops, dual starting solenoids to link both at crank.
H4 headlights running 90/130 bulbs. (custom harness)
3 pairs of acc. lights off the front (780 watts total)
*Each pair above with own relay and circuit breaker.

All feed to lights filtered through a 200 amp circuit breaker first, then dist. block, then to indy circuit breakers. (20/20/30)

Running gear is 77 Scout upgrade, and then some!
D-44 front posi w/discs, D-60 rear Detroit locker, 4.10's
33's

See rebuild pics on FB:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...6291558&type=1

I know "everything is in search"... but "Scout crossover wiring" is not! (I'd bet!)

Anyway... Cab harness won't match... but I want to be sure I am mated correctly to the engine wiring. I have the ECM module on firewall, the pick-up under the dizzy cap (with those pronounced gear signal teeth on the cam shaft).

(I will eventually go to the pertronix Igniter II unit... if anyone has the number handy)
-And I have the Accel 8140 already mounted to firewall ready to go... with the stock one still on engine.

Oh... I also have the dual ballast resistor.

This Scout is "TIGGER"... and Tig was running GREAT until the crunch. Nothing was engine damaged though... so no issues there. Tig has been resting for 10 years... now coming back.

welcome to the forum

Welcome aboard.

It's only wiring..... Welcome....Pictures....:hello:

Welcome!

Welcome to the foum.... Be sure to check out the Mopar of the Month contest....

Pics...
 

Doing a total rewire on TIG... here are some pics...

"???"... you might spot the DUAL remote solenoids... :-) These are to link BOTH batteries together on START ONLY... to double the cranking amps. I'll probably have a pair of Red Tops in there... although Odyssey made me a dealer... so maybe a pair of Odyssey 1200's?

Anyway... I found a tuck away spot for that blue ShurePower isolator... should I use that... or a 180 amp constant duty solenoid to keep the batts charged?

And do I keep the pick-up and ICM... or go to Pertronix? (Part # please...)

Thanks all. If anyone has a question about what or how I do... send me email: GOTSCOUT at GMAIL

Did I post the wiring bank for the H4 headlight upgrades I do?...

-Big.

More...
 

So this is Tig... original as purchased, upgraded in it's glory in the mountains, working hard in the desert, ... then the crash... then the rebirth.
(to be continued!) :-)

H4 headlights
 

This is the bank I drive them with.
I either run 50/100s, or 90/130's, ... so I isolate each circuit to be self standing in the event of a circuit blowout.

As well the "parking light" I use inside the bulbs is LED and connected to the parking/marker light factory circuit. So if I have a total loss, I still have a "headlight glow" to look somewhat legal while in limp mode!!!

(I live for overkill!)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...45093018_n.jpg

It's only ALOT of wiring! :-) -but worth it done right.

Nice....:)

Bob... can you jump on any answers in post #8 above? Thanks! -Steve

Oh yea! Another Scout owner! Welcome to the forum!

BuffJoe... see YOUR threads... I added.
-Steve

Steve..... I am not a big fan of Isolators.....The Diodios let go when over heated.... I like to use like a Eclen SD80 or a ColeHersee 24046 Soleniod. I would wire the batters to Both be hot all the time when the key is on. Then you wire all Acc. to the auxs battery. This leaves the Start battery alone somewhat. When the ignition is off the start and the Aux battery are totaly isolated, untill you start the Vehicle.
We use Odyssey PC1750's. There a great Battery for HD service. But you have to have a high amparage charging system to keep them charged up. There made to have charging in\put all day long. Not Just for short Burst.
Dont get me wrong, there a great battery, and they have a great shelf life, meaning they can sitt for a long time without needing to be recharged. But if you use these your Going to need a NoCo Genius Smart Charger to get those batterys up to 100% charge.
ok...enough of that...... now with that said......
Interstate has a plain label battery called a (PowerVolt) It is a wet battery, But I sware by these things..Group 65... I think these would work better in your case....
Just my 2 cents Steve

Hope this make some sence....lol

Hey Bob... wet batts scare me... too many cold winters, drips and spills, offroading, crashes and other issues over the years to now avoid in my thinking.

That said... Odyssey made me a dealer, but for my personal rides... I still think I prefer Optimas. So TIG is running dual RedTops.

The ColeHerse I have also had failures with 24046... I have (3) 24059BP's right next to me (that were sold as "120amp CDS"... when they are clearly packaged as "80 AMP"... bastards!) And the metal case... metal posts... metal watch band... well you can imagine the 3 battery combined story I'll spare you from! :-) (but I flew about 20 feet!)

So now I am biased to the black epoxy versions!!! (but still remove my watch now!)

As to the blue finned monster... yeah... I might leave it in there unconnected for a "just in case"... and run the CDS instead as isolation.

:-)

** and for charging.. I have a solar panel attached to the rear side cargo window that is passive switched to the system... when not running/sitting. Great trickle... took a redtop down to 9V as a test... hooked it up to solar... next day 12.6 .... sitting attached for 6 months winter stored... tested 12.4. So... easy maintainer. It was that little $14 one from Harbor Freight too! :-)

No Sweat...I'm just bouncing it around out there for the taking.... As log as your confident i'm all in.... I love new ideas.... :)

Keep us up to speed.

On the #1 post of alt... is the 3amp diode enough... or do I also need the ballast resistor?

I looked all day today for a 50w 30 ohm resister... but only found (Pep Boys) a 1.6 and 2.2 metered selection.

Thanks. 200' of wire today... so it all kicks off tomorrow. :-)