New and in need of help! 74 b200 trades,an
 

Hello there! I am new to this forum and well forums... Haha

I came here because I am in need of some advice as me and and everyone that I know can not figure out what is wrong with my van.

I have a 1974

So what is the problem ?

Sorry I accidentally posted that prematurely.

My van stopped running while I was driving one night and we haven't been able to get her to start again. It turns over and has fuel oxygen and spark but still won't start..... By process of elimination we have replaced the

Battery
Control module
Ignition coil
Rotor and distributor cap
Spark plugs and wires

I'm about to replace the ballast resistor as well

Is there anything else it could be? Do you have any idea?

Thank you so much for your help!
OH and she is a 1974 dodge b200 tradesman van with a v8 318 engine.

Have a look at the timing chain.... Sounds like it might have jumped.. ??

How does it crank ? Could be the timing chain ? But check the compression first should be around
130-150 psi If the compression is way off that is a good indication the chain jumped SO then check TDC against the timing marks

Welcome to the forum! It's definitely a great place to come for advice, lots of useful info in most of these threads.

Thanks so much! My dad had suggested it was the timing chain before but we had hope it wasn't..... :(

I will see what I can do! Timing chain might be a bit too complicated for my mechanical skills...

It is not as difficult as it might seem.. BUT if the chain jumped ?? It might have bent the exhaust valves

Okay it's been a while and I finally did the compression test (well I started it-my battery died) and my results are kind of alarming. Here's what I have so far...
1- 40
2- first go was at 80. Next couple tries were at 30.
3- 0
4-0
5- ?
6-0
7-?
8-0

I'm kind of concerned. Could it mean that the chain jumped and interfered with the valves?

Should I re-do the test?

Or should I start checking the valves?

Thanks in advance!!

Sounds definitely like the chain

Awesome thank you!

Tvlynn how likely is it that the valves are damaged due to the chain jumping/sliding?

Will I know when I drop the pan?

There is a good possibility the ex valves are bent. I went thru that with a 318 van it was even a 74 I think. What you need to do baring removing the heads is to take it apart and replace the chain. Then redo the compression test before trying to start it.. You don't need to drop the pan unless you want to clean it. Just remove the front cover / water pump. Align the timing marks on the damper before removing it. You need an 1 1/4" socket to remove the bolt as I remember There will be some pan gasket pieces to go between the timing cover and the pan in the timing cover gasket kit. Or if the gasket is ok ? a coating of silicon form a gasket

Hey there tvlynn!! Been working on her (my vans name is Santa Maria) and I love it!!! Running into a few bumps but it's all a learning process.

do you know if I must remove the fuel pump as well?

I just removed the harmonic balancer. Tough!

I'm getting really close!

I would also like to say thank you. You have really helped me a ton. When she broke and it wasn't anything to do with the ignition everyone around me told me to sell her. But despite that I came here and you telling me that it wasn't that difficult gave me the confidence to do this myself. I get a little help here and there but mostly on my own. I'm really cherishing this experience. And all of the people around me are really impressed..... I think cause I'm a girl. So really thank you for all of your help!

Coming from a man with four daughter's, you go girl!!!!:hello:

,,

YES you do need to remove the fuel pump. OR at least remove it to put it back together as it is driven off the end of the cam.. There are several bolts that run thru the accessories. Usually use them to align the cover and install the bolts that just go thru the cover including the two pan bolts. Then complete the assembly. I would also replace the water pump.T stat and all hoses. Take note of the timing marks on the timing gears and compare them to the new gears !! Years ago there were some that were miss marked

So I thought today was the day to put the new timing chain in but alas it did not happen my dad was forced to help me except he stopped because while he was rotating the cam shaft it was all fine except for in one spot. He said that ment either my pistons are cracked or my calves are bent.

Although I already told him my valves could be bent... and he didn't believe me

he now says that I have to take the engine out of the van to work on it and that it will cost $2000+

Does that sound right?

Camshaft stopping just means one of the pistons is at the top and the valve is contacting it as the cam moves it. There is a possibility all is well but further inspection is needed.

I would install chain and rotate crank with valve covers off and watch each valve through it's travel with spark plugs out.

ah!! Thank you so much!! You are my glimmer of hope!

My dad does not want to help me fix my van and I think that is why he is trying to sabotage me on this.... Hahah

questions!

Does the the timing belt need to be installed to do this test? Or can I crank the cam with it off?
(If I have to take engine out I don't want to have to take all of it off again???)

what at I was told to do was crank the shaft and mark where it becomes difficult and then check to see if the piston changes position with the markings?

Does this sound right? Or is there a better way?

Line up properly and install timing chain, not hard to put on or take off. If I understand someones suggestion of turn camshaft until it stops, mark crankshaft and force camshaft to move piston? piston won't move, bad idea.

Turning crank by hand, watching valve train (plugs out) and thumb over each plug hole on compression stroke will give you the information to decide if you can put it back together.

If the thumb and visual test are good a cold compression test(throttle blades blocked open, plugs out) will be the true test. Maybe a shot of oil in each cylinder as a 2nd compression test too.