440 Locating TDC
05-30-2008 | 01:04 PM
#1
Guest
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440 Locating TDC
Hey guys I need to locate TDC on my 440 and there are 4 lines on the Balancer. One at 12, 3, 6 & 9 O'clock. How do I determine which is TDC? I tried screwing in my TDC plug from my Summit Cam degree wheel kit, but it never touched the top of the Piston. I went through the block and all internals are good. I forgot to rotate #1 cylinder to TDC before bolting the head on. Any information I can get would be great.
Thanks
JD
Thanks
JD
05-30-2008 | 09:37 PM
#3
Mopar Lover
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 248
Not being familiar with the positive stop you have, isn't it adjustable? All you need to make one is an old plug and a bolt and nut.
You DO need --as far's I'm concerned--to check TDC. In my lifetime--I'm nearly 60---I've seen plenty of balancers that have slipped. Fords used to be REAL bad.
So get or make yourself a stop. Just put the stop in no.1, and gently wrench the engine around until it stops. Make an accurate pencil mark on the wheel under TDC on the tab. TAKE CARE to be accurate.
Now, rotate the engine backwards until it stops once again, and make another mark. Your true TDC will be exactly halfway between your two pencil marks.
If you are unaware, with the no 1 ready to fire on compression, the distributor gear slot should be as close to inline with the centerline of the engine front to rear as you can get it.
Really, the only reason the cam gear and distributor are put in this way is
So the assembly line people can put things together time after time
So mechanics "see" what they expect to see
So the plug wires "lay" nice on the engine.
Otherwise, so far as getting the engine running you could:
Bring up no 1 on compression, ready to fire
Toss the gear in "any old way"
Toss the distributor in "any old way"---and---
wherever the rotor points is where you would plunk in no 1 wire.
I used to make positive stops like this:
Take an old plug, and hacksaw around the crimp where the ceramic meets the shell
Cut off the ground electrode, and hammer out the center.
Take a 3/8 tap if necessary, and "chase" the front so a 3/8 bolt will go through
Thread a long 3/8 bolt through, with two nuts on the back, and tack weld one nut on the back of the shell. On some shells, you can grind and drive the nut part way in.
With a grinder, round the end of the bolt for protection of the piston--you're done!!
Also bear in mind, that normally, when a cam is installed "on the marks" it is NOT on no 1 ready to fire, but on no 6 to fire.
You DO need --as far's I'm concerned--to check TDC. In my lifetime--I'm nearly 60---I've seen plenty of balancers that have slipped. Fords used to be REAL bad.
So get or make yourself a stop. Just put the stop in no.1, and gently wrench the engine around until it stops. Make an accurate pencil mark on the wheel under TDC on the tab. TAKE CARE to be accurate.
Now, rotate the engine backwards until it stops once again, and make another mark. Your true TDC will be exactly halfway between your two pencil marks.
If you are unaware, with the no 1 ready to fire on compression, the distributor gear slot should be as close to inline with the centerline of the engine front to rear as you can get it.
Really, the only reason the cam gear and distributor are put in this way is
So the assembly line people can put things together time after time
So mechanics "see" what they expect to see
So the plug wires "lay" nice on the engine.
Otherwise, so far as getting the engine running you could:
Bring up no 1 on compression, ready to fire
Toss the gear in "any old way"
Toss the distributor in "any old way"---and---
wherever the rotor points is where you would plunk in no 1 wire.
I used to make positive stops like this:
Take an old plug, and hacksaw around the crimp where the ceramic meets the shell
Cut off the ground electrode, and hammer out the center.
Take a 3/8 tap if necessary, and "chase" the front so a 3/8 bolt will go through
Thread a long 3/8 bolt through, with two nuts on the back, and tack weld one nut on the back of the shell. On some shells, you can grind and drive the nut part way in.
With a grinder, round the end of the bolt for protection of the piston--you're done!!
Also bear in mind, that normally, when a cam is installed "on the marks" it is NOT on no 1 ready to fire, but on no 6 to fire.
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