Suggestions for a bolt on performance 360?
 

Hello all , Im looking for some suggestions for a bolt on Performance upgrade for a 360. Stuff I can just bolt straight on without Boring, replacing heads.

Mainly stuff like a good cam, intake, Carb. and anything else thats a straight bolt up install.Starting motor is a police motor from a Royal Monaco From the mid to late 70's. Im looking for specifics here. Exact cams and such. The Motor is a good runner with no smoke/knocks. Im just lookign for something that goes ok till I can do a real build on a different 360 in the near future.

I hear that the earlier 360's were low on compression from the get go, so i realize that its not going to be a monster or anything, just something that gets up and go's a bit better than stock.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Why not just put the money you are willing to spend on these parts and put it towards the real build of a different 360 in the near future?

Im currently laid off, could be a while before I get the cash for the build I want, im going to build a seperate Motor while im driving the car. I need to get the car driveable ASAP. Im looking for things to do while im waiting in between.

If you really want to spend your money on this stuff instead of putting towards the other 360 or giving it to me then here you go,

Here is an intake/carb combo: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

Cam:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku

What is the motor going in? A good set of plug wires, high voltage coil, orange box (if your car can use one) would help out too. Roller rockers are a nice touch and can free up 20 to 40 HP.

Its going into the 74 Dart Sport I picked up for the wife. She wants it driveable for the summer.

Get an orange box, a set of headers (you'll have to look those up), and a good water pump (I like kooler flow). Just the intake and carb will make a difference with nothing else.

agreed

Good recipe.

what is the set up? its a 360.... what yr what car what rear end? a rear end change can add up to 75 whp! depends on what gears you have now tho.

Whoa, wait a sec. Gears don't ADD HP or torque, they just allow the power that you already have turn the tires easier.

Twisted said it was going into a 74 Dart Sport. A posi unit would help it to get both tires to spin so you can have more go. I wouls look into swapping in an 8 3/4 rear though. What tranny are you going with Twisted?

The rear end was changed prior to me getting it, to a 8 3/4, so thats not an issue, I dont know if the gears were ever changed.

Ohh, lol and the trans is a 727, and the car already has Headers in place. not sure what brand, but had the full exhaust system installed before bought it.

what inches are the headers?

Ill have to measure them next time I go out, They seemed small when I looked at them though, or at least that was my impression. Ill let ya know when I get out there tomorrow or sunday.

The headers are about 1 3/4 inches.

those are some big primary tube headers. You can build a good amount of power with the right heads and intake with those size headers.

where is it 1 3-4 inches?
at the collector?

adds wheel horse power like i said, (WHP) not crank hp. there is a diff,

it doesnt add any horsepower
if a car has a 440 with 2.75 gears vs. a car with 4.88 gears, they still put out the same power

I agree with 66...if you put the car on a dyno machine, the gears will change the at wheel HP, on an engine dyno it test the at crank HP and yes that HP doesn't change.

rating at the crank will always be higher than at the wheels

More crazy talk...lol. It all depends on the where the dingle arm intersects the retro-encabulator. I thought everyone knew that.:D

haha

thanks mitch you understand what im saying.

I talked to 66 through a couple of PMs and turns out we are both wrong in what we said.

Changing the gears of the rear end will not add to the WHP that you have not, nor will multiple it.

Changing the gears will only change the RPM that the powerband is in. If you have a lower gearing (4.56, 4.88, 5.13, etc), you will feel more of your motors max power at a lower speed (great for drag racing to get off the line and for off roading when you are crawling). If you have higher gears (3.27, 2.73, etc), then you will still feel the power but the powerband is a little wide as the gears are allowing you to get to a higher top speed (great for cruising).

agreed
i guess it was all "lost in translation"
haha

ok , its all good ... , but now I have a bummer situation on my hands 8(.....
I was told the rear end was swapped to a 8 3/4 and im HIGHLY doubting that . I climbed underneath today after I got my motor and trans, and i grabbed the casting numbers on the axle, i still need to run them to see what it is for real, but the gears tag says 2.45...... BLAAARRGHHHHH!!!!!! That for some reason makes me doubt the 8 3/4 story , but ill be running the axle/rear end numbers tomorrow. But I cant see a guy swapping in a good rear end and having 2.45 gears. I could be wrong, but was 2.45 even an option on the 8 3/4???? I think im gonna vomit......everythings spinning....blacking out........ LOL

The 8 3/4 wasn't a factory option on A-bodies in 1974, 'course that dont mean you might have one. Usually though if its a original A-body 8 3/4 rear, it will have the small bolt wheel pattern. The 2.45 gear ratio was used by mopar durin gthe smog years {mid '70's}. Usually they were used in the 7 1/4 or 8 1/4 in cars. Actually the factory "crutched" the gears by pairing them with a converter with a higher stall to help get the car moving. 8 3/4 were drop out rears meaning the carrier was removeable from the rearend housing just like a 9' ford rear. all of the other mopar rears had non removeable carriers with a rear cover bolted on the back. 8 1/4 rears were fairley strong and can be updated by using after market axles, when the durango debuted, the 8 1/4 was enlarged the approx 8 3/8. this was a stronger rear with larger axles but used the truck 6 bolt pattern for the wheels. Its possible there was an 8 3/4 with a 2.45 ratio but not in the a-body. the 8 3/4 continued until 1975 [I think] in trucks only. Maybe thay put a 2.45 in a pickup but I dont think so. Hope this helped By the way, a B-Body 8 3/4 axle from 66-70 should fit well under the dart sport. Its about 2.5 inches wider overall.

Does the axle have a diff cover or does it look like a ford 9" (there is a third member that houses all the gears and you need to pull the driveshaft to pull it out).

If you have a diff cover, then you probably don't have an 8 3/4 rear axle.

yeah its got a removable cover on the back of the rear end...